2002 A4 vert 32k miles

I've searched and read all about the fuel gauge dropping to E and erratic reading issues and mine has been doing it for a season now. I know the tectron song and dance ect.....

What I haven't seen anyone mention is problems getting gas into the car. My fuel gauge drops to empty somewheres between 60-90 miles into a full tank...reset the code from the DIC and the gauge goes back to where it was..usually around 3/4. When this happens, and the car is hot from running say 60-90 miles on the highway..when I go to fill the tank again it WILL NOT take any fuel...it will keep shutting the pump off constantly and take less then a gallon....if I try to push it too hard...the will spill fuel out of the filler neck...no its not the gas pump I've tried it at many. Now If I park the car and let it sit over night...and hit the gas station the next morning when it is cold it will gulp down say five gallons or whatever it takes to be full.

I've had it to my mechanic multiple times for this problem, trying to avoid dropping the tanks to replace the fuel level sensors because it seems to me like I have two different probs. I was told their was a service bulletin on this refueling issue and GM revised a different style filler next and my mechanic put it in, yet nothing has changed.

This is beyond frustrating, and makes me afraid to do any long highway trips.

Any first hand advice?

 

No experience but it sounds like a siphon/jet pump issue. When it happens, the drivers side is full and not going into passenger side. But after sitting it works or levels out. Either tear into the tanks and cross over or do the tricks that you just told us about.
Gal
Chris

 

I ran it all the way out of fuel while the gauge was still reading over 1/4 a tank this spring and it took what seemed like a full tank...surely more then 8 gallons but i forget the exact amount. After that joyfull ride home from easter dinner I haven't let it go more then maybe 200 miles or so on a tank. If its driven short distances daily things seem more normal, its when its a long trip on the highway it seems to not want to take any fuel.

If i drove it daily is wouldn't be so hard to diagnose but its a very occasional driver... I use to like using it for weekend trips and such but now with this issue I'm not even doing that

Since the first time the fuel gauge acted screwy I've been storing it full or very close to it for whatever reason I think i read somewhere that it was best... as this car does sit for extended periods without use.

 

I'm not convinced it is the jet pump yet. As I understand it, the right tank empties first. If the OP is not able to get fuel into the car, it leads me to believe there might be something wrong with the cross over. He is draining the right tank but unable to refill it because the two tanks are not equalizing after brief shut down. It is only after an extended down period that the tanks equalize.

Don't let the thought of pulling the fuel pump or siphon pump frighten you. The hardest part is getting the fuel level down (which can be done by driving the car if the system allows it). Below is a brief write-up I posted for someone else who was having fuel sender issues.

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The process is actually fairly easy. I have a 2003 Z06 non FFS system so the process should be similar if not the same.

1) Run or empty the tanks down as close to empty as possible. I drove mine to get the fuel level down. I used my odometer to track my mileage and then had a gallon can of gas in the car in case I ran out. (didn’t need it)
2) Disconnect the battery
3) Jack the rear of the car up and remove rear wheels (remember to chock the front wheels and use jack stands)
4) Remove the aluminum cover on the rear of the tank (IIRC one nut and one bolt)
5) Disconnect fuel lines and electrical connector
6) Remove the six bolts holding the fuel pump assembly
7) Remove fuel pump assembly. I recommend starting with the right side (passenger side) to become familiar with the process. The right side is the siphon / jet pump side and will easily slide out of the opening. For the left side, you have to detach the fuel sending unit to allow the float rod to line up against the side of the fuel pump. (white plastic base is clipped onto the metal housing) The opening is just large enough for the fuel pump to fit through with the float rod pressed against the fuel pump body.

The process is very straight forward and will take a couple of hours at a relaxed pace. Now that I’ve done it, I could probably do both sides in an hour. It doesn’t require a lift or any special tools.

Two things. 1) I don’t know if sending units are sold separately from the pumps anymore. My car had 199,000 miles on it so I decided to replace the fuel pump assemblies on both sides (pumps were original). 2) Inspect your purchases closely before tearing your car apart. The fuel sending unit I had for the left side had a small plastic piece broken rendering the unit inoperable. Fortunately I have more than one vehicle so I could leave the Vette apart for the 3 days it took to get a replacement.

 

The time I ran all the way out of gas it took more then 8 gallons... like I said I don't remember the exact amount but I do think it was close to 18.

3sACROWD, Thank you for that narrative of the process. Not sure if its something I want to attempt on my own but I could pull the tires and look into it... I'm a body man, taken apart and put them back together many cars but I'm by no means a mechanic and that doesn't sound like a fun way to spend a day off.

I have a very good trusted mechanic shop that treats me very fairly... I'm starting to think I should just stop messing around with all these shortcut fixes and have them drop the tanks, replace the fuel level sensors along with everything else related to this annoyance. I was under the impression that it would very labor intensive and required dropping the rear suspension and tranny... am I mistaken?

I assumed even as a semi favor deal I'd be looking at around a grand just in labor....sound about right? Would I be crazy to go that route without attempting anything on my own?

 

There is NO dropping the drive train as you don't have to remove the tanks for fuel pumps and fuel senders. If you have the ability to pull the wheels off, you have the ability to remove the fuel pumps. It is another 7 nuts and one bolt. The fuel lines are all quick connects that you can remove with your fingers.

I cannot comment on what it would require if there is more to be done.