Convertible Top care, adjustments, and tips
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 2
From: The Woodlands Texas
Convertible Top care, adjustments, and tips
There have been a lot of questions regarding convertible top care,
adjustments, and issues on wear. This article is giving a basis for
what you, as owners, can do to help keep your top, and your car, at its best, and avoid needing the top replaced.
So with that, lets get started.
The first issue we will deal with it contact of the top fabric on the rear deck lid.
This is how you do your first adjustment.
This shows your rear #5 bow adjustment, which will change the actual tension to the rear deck lid, or tonneau. You will need a 13mm and a
15mm for this adjustment. Turn in the adjustment to pull the bow away from the lid, turn out to extend the bow towards the tonneau. A gap of 2 millimeters is what you are looking for.
As a sidebar, there is a revised weatherstrip with a stuffer, that can be installed, from the 02 model year, to insure that the bow does NOT contact. 02-08-111-01 gives you the part number as 10319827.
This is the close up for the adjustment on the #5 bow. Just remember, count the turns on the first side, and do the EXACT same thing on the
other side. If you do not, you could bend the #5 bow. The 13 is your jamb nut, and the 15 is the actual adjustment.
Next is your wear point on the B pillar glass location. This pic is your actual look at the B pillar, when the door is closed, and the glass is
ok, and not hitting the top.
Just remember, that this adjustment will affect your tension on the latches on the windshield frame, and it should be known that you will have to put more effort on the top to latch it. This is due to the fact that you are changing the geometry of the top, and it is ok that it be this way. The tension will be lessened as time goes on.
This is the first part.
This pic is what you will see when the door clearance is ok, not hitting, and you are closing the door. Do not expect alot of clearance, you are only looking for enough to get the door glass past, without contact, that is all.
Now, to adjust the top away from the glass, with out a lot of effort, put your top down, and then reference the pic below.
Now, the arrow is pointing to the 3 bolts, that are on each side that hold the top frame to the vehicle. I asked Ed to highlight these, because these 6 bolts are all that retain the top into the frame of the vehicle.
Directly below the arrow, is a 13mm adjustment screw, which is your adjustment. Just remember, it also has a 13mm jamb nut below it. Once
again, what you do for one side, do for the other. If, after both of these adjustments, you do NOT obtain the clearance that you require, you will have to remove the plastic trim panels behind the seat belt pivot, and loosen those 6 bolts to move the whole assembly. However, I have only had to do this once, so the chance that the simple adjustment will do you just fine, and you will not have to go this in depth.
Now, some of you have water entering in between the mating points of the weather strips. The pic below shows the screw in between the 2 rails.
Just turn it in or out, to either give more room in the joint, or to remove a space.
The last picture is the lubricant that is used for all Corvette weather strips.
While it is expensive, at about $45, one tube will last the life of the vehicle, if used correctly. This lubricant will assist in squeak noises, and itching type noises, that weatherstrips sometimes have when dry.
Follow the instructions on the bottle, and it will serve you well.
For cleaning the tops, and protecting them, RAGGTOPP convertible top cleaner, is authorized by GM for use on all convertible tops. This is sold at the NCM,
www.corvettemuseum.com, and
is only $20 a bottle. Once again, follow the instructions, and it will even clean up the Oak tops, making them almost new.
adjustments, and issues on wear. This article is giving a basis for
what you, as owners, can do to help keep your top, and your car, at its best, and avoid needing the top replaced.
So with that, lets get started.
The first issue we will deal with it contact of the top fabric on the rear deck lid.
This is how you do your first adjustment.
This shows your rear #5 bow adjustment, which will change the actual tension to the rear deck lid, or tonneau. You will need a 13mm and a
15mm for this adjustment. Turn in the adjustment to pull the bow away from the lid, turn out to extend the bow towards the tonneau. A gap of 2 millimeters is what you are looking for.
As a sidebar, there is a revised weatherstrip with a stuffer, that can be installed, from the 02 model year, to insure that the bow does NOT contact. 02-08-111-01 gives you the part number as 10319827.
This is the close up for the adjustment on the #5 bow. Just remember, count the turns on the first side, and do the EXACT same thing on the
other side. If you do not, you could bend the #5 bow. The 13 is your jamb nut, and the 15 is the actual adjustment.
Next is your wear point on the B pillar glass location. This pic is your actual look at the B pillar, when the door is closed, and the glass is
ok, and not hitting the top.
Just remember, that this adjustment will affect your tension on the latches on the windshield frame, and it should be known that you will have to put more effort on the top to latch it. This is due to the fact that you are changing the geometry of the top, and it is ok that it be this way. The tension will be lessened as time goes on.
This is the first part.
This pic is what you will see when the door clearance is ok, not hitting, and you are closing the door. Do not expect alot of clearance, you are only looking for enough to get the door glass past, without contact, that is all.
Now, to adjust the top away from the glass, with out a lot of effort, put your top down, and then reference the pic below.
Now, the arrow is pointing to the 3 bolts, that are on each side that hold the top frame to the vehicle. I asked Ed to highlight these, because these 6 bolts are all that retain the top into the frame of the vehicle.
Directly below the arrow, is a 13mm adjustment screw, which is your adjustment. Just remember, it also has a 13mm jamb nut below it. Once
again, what you do for one side, do for the other. If, after both of these adjustments, you do NOT obtain the clearance that you require, you will have to remove the plastic trim panels behind the seat belt pivot, and loosen those 6 bolts to move the whole assembly. However, I have only had to do this once, so the chance that the simple adjustment will do you just fine, and you will not have to go this in depth.
Now, some of you have water entering in between the mating points of the weather strips. The pic below shows the screw in between the 2 rails.
Just turn it in or out, to either give more room in the joint, or to remove a space.
The last picture is the lubricant that is used for all Corvette weather strips.
While it is expensive, at about $45, one tube will last the life of the vehicle, if used correctly. This lubricant will assist in squeak noises, and itching type noises, that weatherstrips sometimes have when dry.
Follow the instructions on the bottle, and it will serve you well.
For cleaning the tops, and protecting them, RAGGTOPP convertible top cleaner, is authorized by GM for use on all convertible tops. This is sold at the NCM,
www.corvettemuseum.com, and
is only $20 a bottle. Once again, follow the instructions, and it will even clean up the Oak tops, making them almost new.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 565
Likes: 143
From: Bedford VA
My tonneau rubs against the rear glass when raising or lowering the cover. Is the following portion of the procedure above a cure for this? If not what, if anything, can be adjusted?
Now, to adjust the top away from the glass, with out a lot of effort, put your top down, and then reference the pic below.
Now, the arrow is pointing to the 3 bolts, that are on each side that hold the top frame to the vehicle. I asked Ed to highlight these, because these 6 bolts are all that retain the top into the frame of the vehicle.
Directly below the arrow, is a 13mm adjustment screw, which is your adjustment. Just remember, it also has a 13mm jamb nut below it. Once
again, what you do for one side, do for the other. If, after both of these adjustments, you do NOT obtain the clearance that you require, you will have to remove the plastic trim panels behind the seat belt pivot, and loosen those 6 bolts to move the whole assembly. However, I have only had to do this once, so the chance that the simple adjustment will do you just fine, and you will not have to go this in depth.
Now, to adjust the top away from the glass, with out a lot of effort, put your top down, and then reference the pic below.
Now, the arrow is pointing to the 3 bolts, that are on each side that hold the top frame to the vehicle. I asked Ed to highlight these, because these 6 bolts are all that retain the top into the frame of the vehicle.
Directly below the arrow, is a 13mm adjustment screw, which is your adjustment. Just remember, it also has a 13mm jamb nut below it. Once
again, what you do for one side, do for the other. If, after both of these adjustments, you do NOT obtain the clearance that you require, you will have to remove the plastic trim panels behind the seat belt pivot, and loosen those 6 bolts to move the whole assembly. However, I have only had to do this once, so the chance that the simple adjustment will do you just fine, and you will not have to go this in depth.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,826
Likes: 181
From: Pueblo, CO
Then, I discovered that I wasn't raising the front of the top as far as I could.
When I raised the front of the top as far as I could, then the back pulled in far enough so the tonneau stopped rubbing against the glass.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 565
Likes: 143
From: Bedford VA
My tonneau did this too when I first got the car.
Then, I discovered that I wasn't raising the front of the top as far as I could.
When I raised the front of the top as far as I could, then the back pulled in far enough so the tonneau stopped rubbing against the glass.
Then, I discovered that I wasn't raising the front of the top as far as I could.
When I raised the front of the top as far as I could, then the back pulled in far enough so the tonneau stopped rubbing against the glass.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
What do you adjust to get the passanger window into the front clip?
My 98 vert front glass misses the front metal clip if the glass is up and you close the door. If you lower the glass about an inch or two and raise it to the stop the glass remains inside the front metal clip. I have tried to stretch the top fabric with no success. I would like to have the glass close inside the clip just shutting the door and not having to lower and raise the window glass. What adjustment should I make?
Don't want to get the glass where the window leaks air or water but would like to fix this problem. Top looks terrific as I have used the Ragg Top cleaner and protectant about once every 18 months.
Don't want to get the glass where the window leaks air or water but would like to fix this problem. Top looks terrific as I have used the Ragg Top cleaner and protectant about once every 18 months.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
Any response?
What do you adjust?
BTW the clip is about 5 inches to the rear of the front of the top and in the middle top of the window glass.
BTW the clip is about 5 inches to the rear of the front of the top and in the middle top of the window glass.
Last edited by bighank; Nov 25, 2013 at 05:38 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
From: Alamogordo New Mexico
Wow....my window corners were hitting the ragtop corners and wearing them down. The previous owner did seem to care obviously. After reading this post, I was able to raise my corners and clear the window corners when shutting the doors with the windows up! Thank you so much for this post!!! Now all I have to do is figure out how to repair the damage from years of rubbing on the windows. I'll probably have to make a patch with some black canvas and stitch in a corner reinforcement patch. Any suggestions?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 8,900
Likes: 1,074
From: Wisconsin
Wow....my window corners were hitting the ragtop corners and wearing them down. The previous owner did seem to care obviously. After reading this post, I was able to raise my corners and clear the window corners when shutting the doors with the windows up! Thank you so much for this post!!! Now all I have to do is figure out how to repair the damage from years of rubbing on the windows. I'll probably have to make a patch with some black canvas and stitch in a corner reinforcement patch. Any suggestions?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 2
From: The Woodlands Texas
Bathtub Caulk
Wow....my window corners were hitting the ragtop corners and wearing them down. The previous owner did seem to care obviously. After reading this post, I was able to raise my corners and clear the window corners when shutting the doors with the windows up! Thank you so much for this post!!! Now all I have to do is figure out how to repair the damage from years of rubbing on the windows. I'll probably have to make a patch with some black canvas and stitch in a corner reinforcement patch. Any suggestions?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 352
Likes: 24
From: Bowman ND
There have been a lot of questions regarding convertible top care,
adjustments, and issues on wear. This article is giving a basis for
what you, as owners, can do to help keep your top, and your car, at its best, and avoid needing the top replaced.
So with that, lets get started.
The first issue we will deal with it contact of the top fabric on the rear deck lid.
This is how you do your first adjustment.
This shows your rear #5 bow adjustment, which will change the actual tension to the rear deck lid, or tonneau. You will need a 13mm and a
15mm for this adjustment. Turn in the adjustment to pull the bow away from the lid, turn out to extend the bow towards the tonneau. A gap of 2 millimeters is what you are looking for.
As a sidebar, there is a revised weatherstrip with a stuffer, that can be installed, from the 02 model year, to insure that the bow does NOT contact. 02-08-111-01 gives you the part number as 10319827.
This is the close up for the adjustment on the #5 bow. Just remember, count the turns on the first side, and do the EXACT same thing on the
other side. If you do not, you could bend the #5 bow. The 13 is your jamb nut, and the 15 is the actual adjustment.
Next is your wear point on the B pillar glass location. This pic is your actual look at the B pillar, when the door is closed, and the glass is
ok, and not hitting the top.
Just remember, that this adjustment will affect your tension on the latches on the windshield frame, and it should be known that you will have to put more effort on the top to latch it. This is due to the fact that you are changing the geometry of the top, and it is ok that it be this way. The tension will be lessened as time goes on.
This is the first part.
This pic is what you will see when the door clearance is ok, not hitting, and you are closing the door. Do not expect alot of clearance, you are only looking for enough to get the door glass past, without contact, that is all.
Now, to adjust the top away from the glass, with out a lot of effort, put your top down, and then reference the pic below.
Now, the arrow is pointing to the 3 bolts, that are on each side that hold the top frame to the vehicle. I asked Ed to highlight these, because these 6 bolts are all that retain the top into the frame of the vehicle.
Directly below the arrow, is a 13mm adjustment screw, which is your adjustment. Just remember, it also has a 13mm jamb nut below it. Once
again, what you do for one side, do for the other. If, after both of these adjustments, you do NOT obtain the clearance that you require, you will have to remove the plastic trim panels behind the seat belt pivot, and loosen those 6 bolts to move the whole assembly. However, I have only had to do this once, so the chance that the simple adjustment will do you just fine, and you will not have to go this in depth.
Now, some of you have water entering in between the mating points of the weather strips. The pic below shows the screw in between the 2 rails.
Just turn it in or out, to either give more room in the joint, or to remove a space.
The last picture is the lubricant that is used for all Corvette weather strips.
While it is expensive, at about $45, one tube will last the life of the vehicle, if used correctly. This lubricant will assist in squeak noises, and itching type noises, that weatherstrips sometimes have when dry.
Follow the instructions on the bottle, and it will serve you well.
For cleaning the tops, and protecting them, RAGGTOPP convertible top cleaner, is authorized by GM for use on all convertible tops. This is sold at the NCM,
www.corvettemuseum.com, and
is only $20 a bottle. Once again, follow the instructions, and it will even clean up the Oak tops, making them almost new.
adjustments, and issues on wear. This article is giving a basis for
what you, as owners, can do to help keep your top, and your car, at its best, and avoid needing the top replaced.
So with that, lets get started.
The first issue we will deal with it contact of the top fabric on the rear deck lid.
This is how you do your first adjustment.
This shows your rear #5 bow adjustment, which will change the actual tension to the rear deck lid, or tonneau. You will need a 13mm and a
15mm for this adjustment. Turn in the adjustment to pull the bow away from the lid, turn out to extend the bow towards the tonneau. A gap of 2 millimeters is what you are looking for.
As a sidebar, there is a revised weatherstrip with a stuffer, that can be installed, from the 02 model year, to insure that the bow does NOT contact. 02-08-111-01 gives you the part number as 10319827.
This is the close up for the adjustment on the #5 bow. Just remember, count the turns on the first side, and do the EXACT same thing on the
other side. If you do not, you could bend the #5 bow. The 13 is your jamb nut, and the 15 is the actual adjustment.
Next is your wear point on the B pillar glass location. This pic is your actual look at the B pillar, when the door is closed, and the glass is
ok, and not hitting the top.
Just remember, that this adjustment will affect your tension on the latches on the windshield frame, and it should be known that you will have to put more effort on the top to latch it. This is due to the fact that you are changing the geometry of the top, and it is ok that it be this way. The tension will be lessened as time goes on.
This is the first part.
This pic is what you will see when the door clearance is ok, not hitting, and you are closing the door. Do not expect alot of clearance, you are only looking for enough to get the door glass past, without contact, that is all.
Now, to adjust the top away from the glass, with out a lot of effort, put your top down, and then reference the pic below.
Now, the arrow is pointing to the 3 bolts, that are on each side that hold the top frame to the vehicle. I asked Ed to highlight these, because these 6 bolts are all that retain the top into the frame of the vehicle.
Directly below the arrow, is a 13mm adjustment screw, which is your adjustment. Just remember, it also has a 13mm jamb nut below it. Once
again, what you do for one side, do for the other. If, after both of these adjustments, you do NOT obtain the clearance that you require, you will have to remove the plastic trim panels behind the seat belt pivot, and loosen those 6 bolts to move the whole assembly. However, I have only had to do this once, so the chance that the simple adjustment will do you just fine, and you will not have to go this in depth.
Now, some of you have water entering in between the mating points of the weather strips. The pic below shows the screw in between the 2 rails.
Just turn it in or out, to either give more room in the joint, or to remove a space.
The last picture is the lubricant that is used for all Corvette weather strips.
While it is expensive, at about $45, one tube will last the life of the vehicle, if used correctly. This lubricant will assist in squeak noises, and itching type noises, that weatherstrips sometimes have when dry.
Follow the instructions on the bottle, and it will serve you well.
For cleaning the tops, and protecting them, RAGGTOPP convertible top cleaner, is authorized by GM for use on all convertible tops. This is sold at the NCM,
www.corvettemuseum.com, and
is only $20 a bottle. Once again, follow the instructions, and it will even clean up the Oak tops, making them almost new.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 352
Likes: 24
From: Bowman ND
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Grove OK
Is the gap between the deck and lower rear top supposed to be even across the rear left to right? Mine was rubbing a lot and I adjusted it up off of the deck with just the seal in contact. I guess it to far away if it leaks? LoL
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Hey guys, some great information offered. I'm afraid to start turning wrenches though. That's what it may ultimately need. We'll see. The only place my top leaks is the joint where the left window glass meets the top at the top of the left pillar. Rain drips only comes in if the car is not moving. Otherwise, no drips. I'm gonna start out with baby steps. I'm gonna clean and lubricate all the weather stripping to make them nice and soft like a baby's butt. I ordered some Nextzett Gummi Pflege Stift. It was mentioned that it is the go to fix used on VW's and BMW's for weatherstripping restoration, protectant and maintenance. Bought it on Amazon. Really supposed to be good stuff. I'll go from there. I'll let you know how things go. The stuff arrives on April 2.
