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Kinda tired of the noisy tick tick tick from the valvetrain.
Recently I read a post here that stated a cam swap resulted in a much quieter lifter noise. It was a mild cam, like .224/228 114?, or close to that. But I do not remember who posted it… It made me wonder if my cam profile/design is a problem (CamMotion 218/226 587/587 114+3). I realize mine is mild, but is that relevant?
I have checked and double checked preload/pushrods, rockers (BTR V2 roller trunnions) and also upgraded the lifters from Comp Cams to GM Perf LS7. I will say that the LS7 lifters reduced the noise vs the Comp Cams, but without my radio playing it is still present and annoying.
Thoughts?
Last edited by vette4fl; Mar 12, 2026 at 12:46 PM.
Mine sounds like an early SBC with solid lifters. Cam and modified valvetrain/springs all seem to be a contributing factor. Gets quieter as things warm up. I'm just happy the noise is from the top of the engine vs the bottom.
Might just be the lobes.
Few things come to mind...
What springs are you running?
Have you spoke to Bobby at Cam Motion about your auditoryabusive lobes/cam?
I know you like the M1 flavor oil, but have you thought of trying another flavor oil?
Might just be the lobes.
Few things come to mind...
What springs are you running?
Have you spoke to Bobby at Cam Motion about your auditoryabusive lobes/cam?
I know you like the M1 flavor oil, but have you thought of trying another flavor oil?
Running the Pac1218 springs recommended by Cam Motion. I called them about the noise and asked them to review that cam profile. They said the ramps are practically stock and seemed annoyed that I even asked….
I have tried a couple different oils like Penzoil 10-40 and 10-50 even, but no difference. Right now I’m ready to experiment.
Some say these engines are a little noisy. I’ve had solid roller lifters on .700 lift blown engines with much quieter valve trains. When I installed the cam I almost installed a high pressure oil pump, but thought, nah, it’ll be fine, but I don’t know if that mattered. Hate to throw money at it just to experiment, and you know what’s involved in changing these cams. Maybe it’s not as bad when leaving the heads on. Still…
I truly like the way it runs, but might think about another cam.
How old, and what brand are injectors? I've heard some pretty loud injectors too, and they can sound similar to a noisy valvetrain. Just another possibility. Even stock, these engines will never be as quiet as a stock SBC..
Last edited by grinder11; Mar 16, 2026 at 09:52 AM.
I will add that I had a YT rocker arm that ever so slightly tapped on the OEM LS7 valve covers. Just 1 of 16. It was so slight that it only did it when the engine coolant was up to around 180°. Found it with a cheapo mechanics stethoscope from HF. Could hear AND feel it!!!
How old, and what brand are injectors? I've heard some pretty loud injectors too, and they can sound similar to a noisy valvetrain. Just another possibility. Even stock, these engines will never be as quiet as a stock SBC..
So you have had your engine evaluated by a shop with expertise in modified LS platforms, and they confirmed that there is a problem?
Nope. I did have a shop double check my pushrod length and preload. They said it was right on. They thought the noise was not unusual. It’s a lot louder than stock, and all they work on is modified engines. IDK, sometimes you go with your gut…
Nope. I did have a shop double check my pushrod length and preload. They said it was right on.
Ok, well that's good that you did it correctly.
Originally Posted by vette4fl
They thought the noise was not unusual. It’s a lot louder than stock, and all they work on is modified engines. IDK, sometimes you go with your gut…
So this is the part where I'm not following. Coming from a SBC/BBC world, it took some time getting used to the sewing machine sound of an LS valvetrain for me. They are not quiet to begin with. Add a non-stock cam, and they get louder.
So I'm not sure what you seek from this thread? I assume that prior to the cam swap, you just had normal valvetrain noise consistent with a stock LS1/LS6, correct? Now you are saying after the cam swap, your valvetrain noise increase significantly? ........ Even if you post a video, the only way someone can definitively tell you that it's normal..... is listening to the engine in person. You have had at least one pro shop confirm that valve train sounds normal for your cam. You could always seek another opinion. Outside of that, if you would rather have a more quiet valvetrain at the sacrifice of less HP....go back to a stock cam.
My intent was to hear from those who may have used different cam profiles that affected noise, one way or another. I can’t recall where, but I have read posts where a cam change did quiet things down.
I raced pretty much all BBC, mostly supercharged high compression set on kill versions with solid rollers. I’ve driven SBC solid lifter cams on the street. None of those rattled like this car. I realize it’s not the end of the world, and I have had my oil analyzed and everything came back tip top. It just feels like a timer on a bomb.
My intent was to hear from those who may have used different cam profiles that affected noise, one way or another. I can’t recall where, but I have read posts where a cam change did quiet things down.
I raced pretty much all BBC, mostly supercharged high compression set on kill versions with solid rollers. I’ve driven SBC solid lifter cams on the street. None of those rattled like this car. I realize it’s not the end of the world, and I have had my oil analyzed and everything came back tip top. It just feels like a timer on a bomb.
My previous combo's were noisy, frankenstein heads cam (bullet cams on lxl) and gwatney cam (comp cams, don't remember lobes). The bullet cam had both morel and lunati race lifters (both link bar), noisy valve train. The gwatney (comp cam) had lunati race lifters then Johnson 2116 LSR's. The valve train was noticeably quieter with the 2116's vs the morel or liunati on the same lobes. The current HPR/Comp Comp cam has LST (low shock lobes) and the same 2116LSR's and is dead quiet
My previous combo's were noisy, frankenstein heads cam (bullet cams on lxl) and gwatney cam (comp cams, don't remember lobes). The bullet cam had both morel and lunati race lifters (both link bar), noisy valve train. The gwatney (comp cam) had lunati race lifters then Johnson 2116 LSR's. The valve train was noticeably quieter with the 2116's vs the morel or liunati on the same lobes. The current HPR/Comp Comp cam has LST (low shock lobes) and the same 2116LSR's and is dead quiet
Now that’s what we’re talking about 👍. Can you share the cam part number?
Bill Curlee told me he knew a couple CF members who did the Comp lifters, followed by the GM Perf LS7 lifters with poor results. Then they installed the Johnson lifters and those did the trick! Other than being $1,000, I may have to just get on board.
Now that’s what we’re talking about 👍. Can you share the cam part number?
Bill Curlee told me he knew a couple CF members who did the Comp lifters, followed by the GM Perf LS7 lifters with poor results. Then they installed the Johnson lifters and those did the trick! Other than being $1,000, I may have to just get on board.
I need to learn more about low shock lobes. ✅
My cam is a custom grind by horsepower research, no part number or not part number that's in the catalog. Here's the LST catalog
Kinda tired of the noisy tick tick tick from the valvetrain.
Recently I read a post here that stated a cam swap resulted in a much quieter lifter noise. It was a mild cam, like .224/228 114?, or close to that. But I do not remember who posted it… It made me wonder if my cam profile/design is a problem (CamMotion 218/226 587/587 114+3). I realize mine is mild, but is that relevant?
I have checked and double checked preload/pushrods, rockers (BTR V2 roller trunnions) and also upgraded the lifters from Comp Cams to GM Perf LS7. I will say that the LS7 lifters reduced the noise vs the Comp Cams, but without my radio playing it is still present and annoying.
Thoughts?
That was me...
I am using the Texas Speed (Cleetus McFarland, Dumpster Fire... lol...) 224/228-114+4 .600\.600 cam. This is not outsourced, they make some of their own cams now. I was talking with one of the engineers there... basically, said lobe profiling had come a long way and they have learned how to set the valve down a little easier.
I have done SEVERAL cam swaps and this is the absolute least amount of sowing machine noise. I won't say there is none, but it is very close.
As an FYI... I am using 7.4 pushrods, new GM rockers, and new LS7 lifters (NOT the Chinese rip-offs).
Nope. I did have a shop double check my pushrod length and preload. They said it was right on. They thought the noise was not unusual. It’s a lot louder than stock, and all they work on is modified engines. IDK, sometimes you go with your gut…
So, you might still want to measure and confirm PR preload yourself, unless they wrote down the results and showed you how much preload was on the intake and exhaust lifters. I've changed pushrod length for more preload, and it can make them less noisy if you were on the light side of preload. I like to see .060-.075" preload on stock LS7 lifters.
If you try to go with longer or shorter PRs, don't go by turns of the rocker hold down bolt. Summit sells the best PR length checker in the business. If you've ever used a telescope gauge, this tool is very similar in operation. It is basically a spring loaded pushrod. One PR is hollow, and the other is smaller so it can fit inside the the larger, hollow one. It is spring loaded.There's a set screw on the larger, outer PR. VERY simple. NOTE!!! DO NOT use the tool as a pushrod to open/close the rocker WITH FULL STRENGTH VALVESPRINGS!!! It will damage the tool. If you want to use it that way, you must use checking springs! Now all you do is rotate the motor until the lifter for the valve you want to check is on the base circle. You place the tool on that lifter, ensuring the set screw is loose, and tighten down that rocker. Then you tighten the set screw, remove the rocker, remove the tool, then measure its length. Once you have the length, add the desired preload and you're done with that lifter. Simply repeat on the next lifter. It is dead nuts, and I can't believe someone didn't invent this long ago. One of those ideas that makes you wonder why you didn't think of it first....
Last edited by grinder11; Mar 16, 2026 at 05:28 PM.
So, you might still want to measure and confirm PR preload yourself, unless they wrote down the results and showed you how much preload was on the intake and exhaust lifters. I've changed pushrod length for more preload, and it can make them less noisy if you were on the light side of preload. I like to see .060-.075" preload on stock LS7 lifters.
I recall about .070 on preload. The mechanic I had double check my preload said he likes more like .035, but acknowledged that where I had it was ok. I don’t recall the PR length off the off the top of my head.