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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 05:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pipedream
That was me...

I am using the Texas Speed (Cleetus McFarland, Dumpster Fire... lol...) 224/228-114+4 .600\.600 cam. This is not outsourced, they make some of their own cams now. I was talking with one of the engineers there... basically, said lobe profiling had come a long way and they have learned how to set the valve down a little easier.

I have done SEVERAL cam swaps and this is the absolute least amount of sowing machine noise. I won't say there is none, but it is very close.

As an FYI... I am using 7.4 pushrods, new GM rockers, and new LS7 lifters (NOT the Chinese rip-offs).

I PM'd you the cam link.

Take Care,
Scott
Thanks Scott,

I received your pm and have been checking that cam and others on TSP for the last hour, lol. I like the Dumpster Fire name and the specs look pretty good for a daily driver! You know, I believe when we are determined enough, the universe might just throw us a bone.

Thank you!
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
If you try to go with longer or shorter PRs, don't go by turns of the rocker hold down bolt. Summit sells the best PR length checker in the business. If you've ever used a telescope gauge, this tool is very similar in operation. It is basically a spring loaded pushrod. One PR is hollow, and the other is smaller so it can fit inside the the larger, hollow one. It is spring loaded.There's a set screw on the larger, outer PR. VERY simple. NOTE!!! DO NOT use the tool as a pushrod to open/close the rocker WITH FULL STRENGTH VALVESPRINGS!!! It will damage the tool. If you want to use it that way, you must use checking springs! Now all you do is rotate the motor until the lifter for the valve you want to check is on the base circle. You place the tool on that lifter, ensuring the set screw is loose, and tighten down that rocker. Then you tighten the set screw, remove the rocker, remove the tool, then measure its length. Once you have the length, add the desired preload and you're done with that lifter. Simply repeat on the next lifter. It is dead nuts, and I can't believe someone didn't invent this long ago.
One of those ideas that makes you wonder why you didn't think of it first....
Thanks grinder, you always seem to offer up solid advice!

When I installed my cam I used the standard Comp Cams checker, and what a b#@ch to get small increments, lol. I just kept going to the point I got repeatable results at least.

After that job I saw the new Summit space age PR checker and bought one immediately! Sometimes Summit comes out with a terrific tool, but it might disappear before too long, so I jumped on it. I agree 100% with your analysis. This checker is what we needed all along and maybe I’ll have good reason to use it sooner rather than later. I’m planning on having my heads ported later this year, and that would be a good time for a cam swap, so we will see…
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Pipedream
That was me...

I am using the Texas Speed (Cleetus McFarland, Dumpster Fire... lol...) 224/228-114+4 .600\.600 cam. This is not outsourced, they make some of their own cams now. I was talking with one of the engineers there... basically, said lobe profiling had come a long way and they have learned how to set the valve down a little easier.

I have done SEVERAL cam swaps and this is the absolute least amount of sowing machine noise. I won't say there is none, but it is very close.

As an FYI... I am using 7.4 pushrods, new GM rockers, and new LS7 lifters (NOT the Chinese rip-offs).

I PM'd you the cam link.

Take Care,
Scott
Description on the TSP site for that cam: "Let 'er rip tater chip"! LOL
I'm using the same LS7 lifters, 7.400 pushrods. I'm using single LS6 springs though. My cam is .550 lift or "low lift". Slight noise is there, and have always attributed it to injectors? I just close the hood and mash the gas.

Good friend of mine originally said the same about TSP when I was shopping for a performance cam. "Just get one of their own grind, Low lift cams, just pick one, stuff it in". This is the same friend who told me to buy a C5, when I was looking for a performance car that had three pedals.
Once I started collecting parts, I called TSP and talked to a sales guy named Isiac there and when I told him my intentions with the car, headers, CNC 243 heads and wanting to be easy on the valve-train using the TSP "low lift "cam/ LS6 springs cam kit . Isiac told me to go Stage IV from the list TSP offered. I did and it works great for me. Its not silent, however not obtrusive. I also notice that TSP now offers their own springs (made by PAC) that comes with that low lift cam kit. My cam kit came with the GM LS6 springs that are in the car now. That is why I was asking OP about springs a few posts ago. I'm not sure what drove that spring change in that kit and have not called to ask either.
I sent my dyno sheet to very helpful (with many things) TSP sales guy Ahbi after the car was done. He was impressed at the power for a 5.7. Now I see they added some verbiage to the Stage IV (their own proprietary lobes) low lift cams. Something about amazing torgue and excellent mid-range power... Yup
https://www.texas-speed.com/brand/te...ruck-camshaft/

There is a bit of surge, constant state, below 2000 rpm, that immediately disappears with a change in throttle position. Its not bad. Maybe the tune???
I need to get into tuning now that I'm out of my old job of 39 years.
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 03:43 PM
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I'm using the old version of the TSP228r (XER lobes). Used stock lifters and rockers, TSP pushrods, and the old (garbage) Comp trunnions. Had the sewing machine sound.

Changed to Che bronze bushings and Manton larger OD pushrods. Valve train is now so much quieter that it doesn't even register with me when I'm in the car.
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 05:03 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Rx7Rob
I'm using the old version of the TSP228r (XER lobes). Used stock lifters and rockers, TSP pushrods, and the old (garbage) Comp trunnions. Had the sewing machine sound.

Changed to Che bronze bushings and Manton larger OD pushrods. Valve train is now so much quieter that it doesn't even register with me when I'm in the car.
I installed the BTR V2 captured roller trunnion bearings when I did the cam. I am contemplating pulling the valve covers to double check them. Maybe just cross something off the list.

Changing lifters from Comp to GM Perf LS7 lifters definitely helped originally. A few have suggested Johnson lifters $$$
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 07:42 PM
  #26  
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This is so easy to fix.
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by helga203
This is so easy to fix.
Like this?


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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 08:31 AM
  #28  
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 08:35 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by vette4fl
I installed the BTR V2 captured roller trunnion bearings when I did the cam. I am contemplating pulling the valve covers to double check them. Maybe just cross something off the list.

Changing lifters from Comp to GM Perf LS7 lifters definitely helped originally. A few have suggested Johnson lifters $$$
I doubt very much if you'll have any issues with the BTR V2 setup. I ran them for around 25,000 miles, and never any problems, and still good as new. I sold them only because I went to a YT full roller rocker. As long as it's the V2, you're fine...
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoken1
Like this?

That's one way, my way was fine the volume *** on your radio and turn it up. Problem solved
Many people have this same problem. Obviously its not hurting the engine. The problem is your getting so focused on the valvetrain that it's ruining you're driving of the car quit focusing on it and enjoy it.
Take the easy and cheap way out and turn that god damn volume up.
You just happen to get an engine that's louder them most which is normal with these LS engine. Stock or modified you're the unlucky one.
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