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I would expect your labor costs to be somewhere between $600 - $900. They have to remove everything from the rear of the engine back. (torque tube, tranny, diff, cradle and wheels)
It is a good time to inspect / replace torque tube bushings and bearings, as well as replace axle seals if leaking since everything will be on the ground.
Ask plenty of questions up front. I needed a slave cylinder and master cylinder replaced. The one tranny shop I talked to told me it wouldn't be a big job. "Just disconnect the drive shaft and pull the tranny back." I went elsewhere as he didn't realize the tranny is in the rear of the car.
I ended up driving to RPM in Indiana to have my work done. After talking with them, I decided to do some upgrading while we were at it. Much better experience.
If you're near one of the forum sponsors that do transmission work, you might be better taking it to one of them. Just a thought...
Experienced LS shop here charged me 6hrs labor at $80/hr. If you have ever tried it yourself, you will see it is worth the money to know it is done right.
I was finding labor quotes from 8 to ten hours , but never saw a rate book number for the job. How much the hours cost varies.
I paid around 800 bucks labor for the job from a dedicated Corvette garage. Be sure and address the torque tube wear .
Just to be interesting, the car had only a vacant space where the pilot bearing belonged. Nothing but dust, but I put a lot of miles on a hurt clutch, looking for a garage that knew the car.
In my local area, you can find german specialty garages all day long, good ones. High end chevy repair, forget it. Don't ask me how I know these cars need a better than average shop.
Whether it takes 6 or 9 hours, almost all shops will charge you what the book says. This is how a good Tech makes $$$; the book says 9 hours and the Tech does it, for example, 5 hours and gets paid for his 9 hours billed. This is pretty much standard practice, especially at dealers. I've been at some small shops that just plain rip you off. For example, to drain and refill the differential, the book says 0.5 hours & that's what I've paid at every dealership that I've been to; two independent shops wanted 1.0 labor. On procedures that aren't in the book, I would check around with reputable shops/dealerships. As an example, I recently had stainless steel brake lines installed.......one dealer wanted $700 another dealer wanted $225 (a Class A Tech would do the work). There were prices in between; the $700 guy didn't have a clue.
Experienced LS shop here charged me 6hrs labor at $80/hr. If you have ever tried it yourself, you will see it is worth the money to know it is done right.
I have seen the DIYs.
I definitely know that 800+ is fair for the amount of work that has to be done.
Thanks for the replies everyone! Here's a follow up question, would a dealership put in an LS7 clutch in my LS1 car If I requested? Or would they only do an OEM LS1 install.
Thanks for the replies everyone! Here's a follow up question, would a dealership put in an LS7 clutch in my LS1 car If I requested? Or would they only do an OEM LS1 install.
Most places will put in whatever you give them, Paying customer is allways right..
If you do a LS7 clutch make sure you get everything you need. iirc you will need a different flywheel and flywheel bolts and obviously new bearings. Venders here do have kits ready to go at a good price. Clutch is a Pain in the ***, have done a couple with friends.
As for Torque tube wear i think he was refering to the rubber couplers in the TQ tube.. there are posts on it.. if you are taking it out anyhow definatly inspect the couplers and replace/upgrade as needed.
S
Last edited by RedZMonte; Oct 9, 2013 at 08:05 PM.
I'd be in for that, but I don't think there are any on the gulf coast unfortunately.
air is corrosive down there. if you're not breathing corexit, you will still have that marine air which i swear is harder on rubber than say northern california inland
if the unemployment is still high i would think you could find a decent deal somewhere. i mean, a big part of labor costs are standard of living for the area. someone who lives in NYC is going to pay through the nose simply because land/shop space is so expensive
air is corrosive down there. if you're not breathing corexit, you will still have that marine air which i swear is harder on rubber than say northern california inland
I just moved down here from north alabama, and I can tell. Even the paint on the cars down here is eaten away.
I imagine some of the rubber in my poor old car looks like the bushing above...
That is good, I figure I may as well drop in a clutch that can take more power. Better to do it now than to do it twice.
be realistic. with a single disc a monster stage 2 is as aggressive as i would want to go. the stage 3 and up just are too grabby for street driving. i've had a ceramic clutch before and they place a LOT of stress on the driveline with their fast engagement as well as being less than ideal in traffic
an organic twin disc is worth the money if you're going to make over 550 rwtq
be realistic. with a single disc a monster stage 2 is as aggressive as i would want to go. the stage 3 and up just are too grabby for street driving. i've had a ceramic clutch before and they place a LOT of stress on the driveline with their fast engagement as well as being less than ideal in traffic
an organic twin disc is worth the money if you're going to make over 550 rwtq
I plan on grabbing an LS7 if/when I get the clutch worked on, I figure 500 crank horsepower is about as much power as I'll ever need. If I want more, I'll upgrade to a C6Z and build on it.