Harmonic Balancer weights
I purchased a Powerbond HB (before I read about the weights), and it has the holes to place weights in the perimeter of the HB, which leads me to believe that they are required. Does anybody have a good understanding of this and know whether a not a Powerbond HB DOES require weights to be added to match the original HB?
Your new damper should be balanced to a similar spec from the manufacturer. I would recommend you not add any weights to it.
Dampers are balanced by themselves at the factory, as stated above, before they are put on the engine. They will often have several blind drilled holes in them. That is for zeroing the damper alone, to some level of balance tolerance.
When the damper is put on the engine during the build process (along with the clutch and flywheel) additional weights are sometimes added to the damper, flywheel, or both as needed, to fine tune balance the entire assembly. This is to try to minimize vibrations felt in manual transmission vettes.
Your PB damper will be zero by itself to a certain degree (as was the factory original). You would still transfer the weights from your original damper, if you wanted to maintain the factory balance that you have had all along. There's a lot of misinformation about this, especially as it deals with flywheels. However, your FSM will tell you to transfer weights with respect to your damper when replacing with a new one.
However, I would guess that most people ignore that, and do not transfer any weights, and are fine. The radius in which the weights are placed is so small that balance correction from adding weights is pretty minimal. It's more pronounced at the flywheel locations.
So it probably won't matter whether you transfer or not. GM chose to add them during the final fine tune "hot balance process". It's your choice whether to maintain that or not.
FYI, if anyone doubts that GM does this external hot balance procedure, I can gladly provide numerous links to articles that describe it. There have been several articles explaining and walking through the build process.
Good luck.
and if you wanted to get real picky about it, you could always take off your current damper and check its state of balance. Then you could match your new one to it. That is in essence what you are trying to do when transferring weights, but without the guessing. Is it overkill? yes. Will anyone do that? probably not.
just remember, the dampers are zero balanced (to a degree) BEFORE any weights are added.
good luck
the balance weights all serve the same purpose and were put on in the same manner during the same post assembly hot balance process.
But, the ones in the damper offer much less correction capability. And it is only "fine tuning" the whole assembly for minimizing vibrations. The engines are fine without them, it's just to minimize vibrations in manual vettes.
I have about 30 years experience balancing crankshafts for High Perf engines. Given what I've seen, I still would not transfer the weights between dampers.
As you said, the best thing to do would be to take the old damper and the new one to a shop that does crank balancing. Have them spin the old one on a crank and zero out the crank with temporary weights, then spin the new one and make any adjustments to the new damper.
Honestly, a new damper will take a set between the interia and the elastomer ring after it has been rpm'd and run a while. I wouldn't bother with the A-B balancing until the new damper had taken a "set".
Dampers are balanced by themselves at the factory, as stated above, before they are put on the engine. They will often have several blind drilled holes in them. That is for zeroing the damper alone, to some level of balance tolerance.
When the damper is put on the engine during the build process (along with the clutch and flywheel) additional weights are sometimes added to the damper, flywheel, or both as needed, to fine tune balance the entire assembly. This is to try to minimize vibrations felt in manual transmission vettes.
Your PB damper will be zero by itself to a certain degree (as was the factory original). You would still transfer the weights from your original damper, if you wanted to maintain the factory balance that you have had all along. There's a lot of misinformation about this, especially as it deals with flywheels. However, your FSM will tell you to transfer weights with respect to your damper when replacing with a new one.
However, I would guess that most people ignore that, and do not transfer any weights, and are fine. The radius in which the weights are placed is so small that balance correction from adding weights is pretty minimal. It's more pronounced at the flywheel locations.
So it probably won't matter whether you transfer or not. GM chose to add them during the final fine tune "hot balance process". It's your choice whether to maintain that or not.
FYI, if anyone doubts that GM does this external hot balance procedure, I can gladly provide numerous links to articles that describe it. There have been several articles explaining and walking through the build process.
Good luck.
and if you wanted to get real picky about it, you could always take off your current damper and check its state of balance. Then you could match your new one to it. That is in essence what you are trying to do when transferring weights, but without the guessing. Is it overkill? yes. Will anyone do that? probably not.
just remember, the dampers are zero balanced (to a degree) BEFORE any weights are added.
good luck
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
FYI, if anyone doubts that GM does this external hot balance procedure, I can gladly provide numerous links to articles that describe it. There have been several articles explaining and walking through the build process.
T-Top Tom,
Good observation on the lack of key ways. Everything I work on is keyed, so I always forget the cheezy lack of keys on these things.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ight-info.html
I guess the only way to know where your weights are is to mark your crank and note the weights relative to your mark BEFORE your harmonic balancer goes bad.
As mentioned, the radial placement of the weights on the balancer is much smaller than that of the flywheel weights, so imbalance correction capability is much smaller. Most people don't add or transfer the weights to their new damper, most new ones don't even have the holes to accept them, and they are fine. I would of course say to follow the book in this case, but if you can't put them in, you are most like going to be fine. Your engine is still fine, you just might feel some very slight new vibrations in the shifter, and then again, you might not.
I'll find all the links I put up about GM's process and put them here, for anyone curious about it.
here is a link to another thread in this forum. A lot of the links to articles are in here, down a bit on the first page.
Most articles are about Wixom, one is an early article (2002 I think) that describes then an LS6.
I guess the only way to know where your weights are is to mark your crank and note the weights relative to your mark BEFORE your harmonic balancer goes bad.
I didn't add any weights since I wouldn't know where to put them. I've had no issues since, and it's been several years since I did the work. I did get the part number for the weights from GMPartsHouse.com. They are;
3890192 = .50 long
3890193 = .75 long
I didn't add any weights since I wouldn't know where to put them. I've had no issues since, and it's been several years since I did the work. I did get the part number for the weights from GMPartsHouse.com. They are;
3890192 = .50 long
3890193 = .75 long















