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Went to a track day about a month ago and on the last lap noticed I was getting a clunk from under the car.
It is an 02 Z06 with 80k miles. Heads/Cam/Fast 90 and Pfadt's JOC suspension package.
I thought it was something in the suspension but I checked it out myself and took it to a local mechanical and he looked it all over and wasn't able to find anything. All A Arms, tie rods, ball joints etc look and feel tight.
He was thinking that it was possibly the end links to the sway bars. In Pfadts kit they have the heim joint links. Mine appear to be in good shape.
I have driven the car a little and going over bumps straight there is no clunk. It is only when I drive over something at an angle. I can't really feel it in the car but it is a loud clunk. Almost like a mount or something broke or is loose but from what has been inspected nothing shows up.
Anyway just wanted to get some ideas from you guys. If you need more info just post up questions, I'd be happy to answer.
Be sure the sway bar mounts not the end links are tight. Mine have worked loose a couple times and will clunk like you describe. Check your CV joints as well ... any ripped boots?
The big NUT that secures the CV Joint output shaft to the rear wheel HUB can get loose and that can make several different noises. Check the torque on both nuts.
Thanks guys I really appreciate the suggestions. I'll get under the car this weekend and check the items you guys are describing. I'll report back. Hopefully it is something easy like a loose bolt etc that I can just re torque.
The big NUT that secures the CV Joint output shaft to the rear wheel HUB can get loose and that can make several different noises. Check the torque on both nuts.
Set the parking brake.
Insert a drift or punch into the brake rotor cooling fins and against the caliper to prevent the wheel hub and bearing from turning.
Begin to install the drive shaft retaining nut onto the drive shaft by hand.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Slowly tighten the nut to draw the drive shaft to the wheel hub and bearing. Tighten
Tighten the drive axle spindle nut to 160 N·m (118 lb ft).
Remove the drift or punch.
Release the parking brake.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
I know from experience that the swaybar endlinks need to be tight. The may feel tight until you put a torque wrench to them. I would actually tighten them to about 7 - 10 ft/lbs over spec. Now, if I could only remember what the torque spec was.
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
This might sound stupid.... but make sure your battery is secure.
Try pushing it around to see if it moves.
It has enough weight to "Clunk" and make you think its a loose suspension piece.