hi cpt,

thats the time almost all highways are vacant for max speed driving.
I grew up very close to Baumholder. Are you in the military there ?

Jochen

 

Mine cracked but that was due to a lot of track time on those rotors ...

 

Sounds fun Jochen. I will be picking up a new vette next spring or early summer at the conclusion of the lease on the present car, and I will definitiely do museum delivery followed by a tour. The only uncertainty at this point is whether to get another Coupe or the ZO6.

Thanks for the early morning tip. We did mostly mid-day driving, some on weekends.

I think the quality of the stock rotors varies quite a lot. I have had few problems but many report cracking and warping with abnormally short mileage.

Beste wunsche fur frohliche und schnelle fahren :) Sorry about the missing umlauts.

 

Do you need a tranny cooler on the Autobahn maintaining high speeds over distance? Is the tranny cooler an A4 or MN6 thing, or both??

 

I would love to run my vette on the Autobahn,what a blast. .... :cheers:

 

Brembo and Baer are both suggesting slotted and not drilled rotors for the bad boy rotors. I run slotted.

 

"Do you need a tranny cooler on the Autobahn maintaining high speeds over distance? Is the tranny cooler an A4 or MN6 thing, or both?"

MellowYellow, well i think the tranny oil temp. of the 6 speed is not a problem. As far as i know only the A4 has the temp. indication on the DIC for transm.oil. So i think if you need a tranny cooler you just need one for the A4. But acctually i have no idea of what my transmition oil temp. is when driving for a long time at high speed. Probably a good new thread topic.

Marc, i forgott to mention the best time to verify the max speed my car can do was in the morning at 0600 after i finished from night shift . . . i was almost allone on the highway A93. Was just for fun. Took the aviation GPS from a friend and compared the numbers on the speedo of my C5 and the GPS reading. See my sig, i did this before the mods.

Jochen



[Modified by Jochen, 6:55 AM 7/10/2002]

 

Slotted rotors are designed to expell the gas that is formed between the pad and rotor when hot which decreases pad effectiveness. The drilled rotors are designed to do the same with better cooling and less weight. You can actually slot or drill the rotors but have them Cryo'ed or thermal cycled to prevent the warping. The thing about drilling the rotors is the fact that your taking out material which helps prevent warping from stress. The "stress risers" are from the heat involved between the drill-bit or mill and the rotor when drilling or slotting. The heat from milling takes the heat-treat out of the rotor in those spots so thermal cycling returns the heat-treat to those areas. Our "sport" rotors are the best in the industry and are the only (double-ball-milled) gas slotted rotors available. We found through thermal imaging that the leading edge will lift and prematurely wear the pads and indexing the slott to go across the vanes keeps the structural integrety of the rotor. We don't recommend cross-drilling the rotor, we've found that cross drilling weakens the rotor structure and they will warp and crack quicker. We are the one of the only companies thermal cycling the rotors by heating and freezing them which aligns the molecules (reduces warping) and hardens them for durability. We are getting approximately four times the rotor life over stock rotors in full racing applications depending on driving style. :yesnod:

 

Thanks guys ... they look cool but not a priorty now :cheers:

 

[QUOTE] Our "sport" rotors are the best in the industry and are the only (double-ball-milled) gas slotted rotors available. We are getting approximately four times the rotor life over stock rotors in full racing applications depending on driving style. :yesnod: [/QUOTE

Good to know, thanks.....

 

Check out:
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm

 

Thanks for the technical insight VBP. Sounds like you guys know your stuff (nothing new there ;) ).

 

I put a big Dilusi set on mine. I did go with the drilled rotors though. Strictly for looks. There is no serious road racing track here so I will never need to test the durability. I have discovered there is a serious need for those 6 piston brakes though. Here in Hawaii you need to come to a stop pretty damn quick sometimes. :D :D

If I were road racing this car I would definitely change the rotors out to solid ... slotted maybe but definitely not drilled.

 

Tom,

Tracks with higher average speeds are actuually EASIER on brakes than those with a lower average speeds. This is because the greater aerodynamic drag (on fast tracks) helps to slow the car down, and more air gets to the brakes. Smaller tracks with lower speeds are MUCH harder on the brakes. Its the opposite of what most people think!

Jerry




[Modified by Z06jerry, 9:25 PM 7/16/2002]