I have been thinking about some engine modifications to boost the HP in my LS1, but it crossed my mind to think about a different engine altogether and instead of spending the $10-15k+ it would cost to get my car up to 425-450 HP using the LS1 block, spend it on an LS3 crate engine instead. What all would it take to drop an LS3 into a stock 2000 coupe? Is it feasible?

 

check this guy out, hes on this forum also might want to PM him http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...b-c-d-e-f.html

 

Ever considered a blower? I guarantee that you will spend less money than an ls3 and have more power. Completely smog legal and drive stock with easily 450rwhp with a soft tune

 

I did this with the 480hp LS3 from GM after my LS6 blew. Tis expensive and a lot of little things you have to do for the computer and sensors to make it all work. Depending on the shop labor will be $2500-$3500 on top of the costs for the motor. You WILL be into it for $10k. Mine was more because I did everything while she was apart. If nothing is wrong with your car currently get a blower. You will have more power at half the costs.

 

I'd prefer to get the HP through the engine and stay N/A. That's one of the reasons I was looking at the LS3. It puts me near my target HP without the need for a blower or turbos. I wouldn't put a blower on a completely stock engine anyway; that's asking for trouble down the line.

 

Based on what I experienced with this project, it was a surprisingly direct "drop in" process BUT with a couple of very specific items needed. Original owner of the car had put a wet sleeved LS6 stroker which was giving me too many issues. After speaking to a couple of folks, doing some research and sitting down with a local tuner to talk prices and time we decided to go down the LS3 route. I put in a crate LS3 from GMPP and before dropping int he engine, they swapped out the cam to a custom application.
They were able to reuse all of my accessories such a starter, alternator, PS pump, AC as well as the other stuff which kind of surprised me- VR2, Kooks 1 7/8 headers, xpipe, Borla and Dewitts radiator. The main difference is the reluctor from 24x to 58x. In my case, they used a Lingenfelter adaptor to take care of that. If you buy a built LS3 application, the builder may make this change so you don't have to use an electronic adaptor. Tuning will be the biggest thing as previously mentioned in order to ensure you are running properly.

For my particular application because it was a 97 with the dual fuel lines, they used an Aeromotive Fuel regulator (you can see it in the pics). Finally the tuning for a 97 is a little trickier because of the older PCM. Finally, I did buy some valve covers and had to trim them a little to fit because of the fuel regulator and on the driver side, I had to cut off about an inch from the back of that cover but you can't even tell if you look at the pics.

Altogether-the price of the crate motor and labor, fluids, new belts and a few other little things I got done since the suspension was on the ground such as a new clutch, remote bleeder MC, some new shocks, and I relocated the oil filter (you can see it by the radiator fans) etc... it all came out to just shy of $13K. I sold a lot of the parts from the old set up and recovered a few hundred bucks.
The cam is a 237/249 114LSA .624/.624- right now on stock LS3 heads and stock intake it is putting down 485RWHP and 449 RWTQ.
If you just do the stock crate motor, the price will be reasonable and you will not regret it.

This is my final product and this is that it sounds like: http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/ez...9b0c8.mp4.html

 

Why did you put the oil filter there, vs leaving it in stock LS3 location, no room?

 

Not at all. Tons of people running A&A systems on basically stock engines (all you need are springs and you should be getting those done anyways.) Also the A&A will SMOG and be a lot cheaper in the end to install. Running low boost and having 500RWHP with an amazing power curve for under 6K, you can't go wrong. I've had 4 cars with aftermarket FI on it and only blew a motor on one and that was because my PowerFC and the engine leaned out. Again that was a standalone ECU.

Edit: I just saw the above poster spent $13,000 on his LS3 and got 485RWHP. The LS3 is awesome but phew!!! I haven't even spent that on my entire car and I have full Coilovers (Featherlights!) sways, Centerforce DYAD, and a completely built up blower from A&A with a cam and springs. Don't fear the boost!!!! Just get a solid tune and get good gauges.

 

So if one lived in California where long tubes are not "smog legal" would a C5 with LS1 get 500RWHP with stock exhaust manifolds, cats and pipes, mufflers?

Just asking to see if you could get that with factory exhaust.

 

Or do a LS3 with a blower. I bought a L92 block for cheap. New GM LS3 heads were $750 for the pair. A cam kit from a known vendor and for under $4k you have a complete LS3 making 470rwhp. Then I added a blower a year later and made 600rwhp. All together still under $10k.

 

If you want 500RWHP legally A&A Supercharger is the only way.

 

You can get your LS1 to the 450 rwhp level for a lot less than 13G, I hope anyway, since I'm right there with around $3500 spent in parts, but I do my own labor.

 

you could get 400+RHWP cam + headers, and that'll run you $1500-2000 depending on what parts you go with. I'm hoping for 470ish RWHP with my heads/cam LS6. About $3.5K in parts for everything including headers. A fraction of $10-15K

 

As I said in an earlier post, I'm wanting to stay away from FI.

 

I don't want to go with cheap parts. The headers/x-pipe that I'm looking at will run about $2k by themselves. Then there's the GHL catback, ARH heads, cam (with accompanying parts), and all the rest would be well over your $2k.

 

1999corvettels1- Not at all, the filter would sit in the same place. It was ease of access and my own preference really- I do my own oil and do not have a lift so I always found it tight to get under the car to get the oil filter. Now I drive up on the ramps, pop the drain plug and come up to the front and twist the oil filter off basically without much issue.


Mattie Num Nums- Its all relative really and believe me I agree with you-It could have been less. Had I done just the crate alone it would have been under $10K installed tuned and out the door. I figured now was the time for the clutch and suspension work while the drive train was on the ground. Boost was an option I considered but I was having so many issues with the old engine set up that it would have required much more work and time and possibly money by the time it was all said and done. Above all else, I felt that it would not have been as reliable as a new crate engine. For me going to the LS3 was a quick way to fix my engine worries, get some nice performance and get to drive the car fairly quickly without worrying and 2nd guessing myself. I am still considering options like some work by ECS in the future but for now I'm good...until the HP bug bites and I get some funds in my "pay to play" account.

 

ls3-erod?

 

Be sure to let us know what you decide and where you end up..

 

I've heard CA people using the C6 Z06 manifolds on the C5. The look close enough to stock to pass inspection but flow close to headers. It takes some exhaust mods to get them to work but add a blower and you should be pretty close.

 

OK spend $10K on an engine swap then.