Sitting at a red light today in my 2k C-5 and heard a tone and then the low fuel light (the red one) showed up. The needle on the fuel gage went to the very bottom at the same time. I had almost a 1/2 of a tank at the time. What do I need to check for or do at this point? Could this be a bad fuse or is it more serious? FYI, the fuel gage has been acting up a bit for the last few months. Sometimes it would show less fuel than I have and other times reads the correct fuel level.

Thanks.....bob

 

Update....Went out to the garage to take the car to fill up the tank (just in case no fuel gauge) and the gauge is working again. That being said, still need to know what to do to keep it from happening again.

 

Todays fuel has a LOT of slupher. That gets deposited on the fuel sensor contacts and causes your issue.

Purchase some Chevron TECHRON fuel system treatment. Add it to an empty tank and fill the tanks.

You will probably have to do several treatments to solve the issue but 90% of the time,, thats all that is wrong.

READ AND POST your DTCs Believe it or not, the DTCs will tell you exactly what is wrong and which tank sender is bad.

You can also check the fuel tank/system ground stud G-401 in the drivers rear fender well on the side of the frame Make sure that its clean and tight



READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Thanks for the post. Have printed it out and will start checking the above mentioned. Will definitely add the Techron first and go from there.

 

Techron is the anwser.

 

Techron fixed my gauge issue with the first 2 bottles.....I like those kind of fixes!.....Fred

 

Thanks Fred, appreciate the feedback. It's much better now but still acts up a little bit. I am going to put in another bottle today and hopefully will have the same result.

Bob

 

Need some help on how to tighten down the top on my C-5. I know how to adjust the rear catch but not the front two catches above the sun visors. Have a little rattle in the front of the removable top. Anything you can suggest to help me get this done will be greatly appreciated.

 

Start a new post, don't piggyback on a year old post that has nothing to do with your present problem.

dan k.