Okay so I have my Vette Broken down for a Cam/ lifter swap and all the stuff that goes with it. Everything is off the motor and out of the bay. How much farther and how much more work is it to pull the motor out from here?

I wanna do ARP rod bolts and also swap out the main and rod bearings along with my rear main seal. No rod knock noises or anything. But I Had a low oil pressure problem and I checked the oil pump o ring and it was not pinched (this is after installing the new melling). It does look smaller then the OEM blue one I orderd though by a little ammount. The pump is a brand new Mellling m295 that had a small ammount of oil pressure. But it was not where it should have been. Is there a simple way to check and make sure the relief valve isnt stuck also?

But the goal is to put the motor back together and not have to worry about it for a long while. Thanks

 

With the right equipment someone with decent mechanical abilities can pull the engine pretty quickly. A couple of hours maybe.

Yep that little o ring is a SOB. If it don't do its job you will most certainly loose oil pressure.

 

I mean I've got the engine lift and stand. So it can't be to hard. Look like just taking the rest of the wiring harness off and putting a jackstand under the TT.

Will bad lifter cause an oil press loss?

 

Monitoring pressure in the galley, down stream of everything that can break, fail or be defective is what you want. That's why the sensor is there.

Yep, in your case that's pretty much all there would be left to do to remove the engine. Remember this though. On an engine where the cylinder heads stay on the car, the cradle will probably have to be slightly lowered in order for the "batwing" shaped oil pan to clear the cradle upon engine removal. (At least this was the case for me during my first C5 engine removal). In your case, the cylinder heads are off the car right now because your doing a lifter swap. The only reason I make mention to the oil pan to cradle clearance issue I experienced during engine removal, is because I would have hated to to pull the engine, do all your work, bolt the heads back on with the engine outside the car and then struggle to get it back in.

No, a bad lifter in it self typically won't cause low oil pressure. Lifters are not part of the vehicles lubrication system. (They are a lubricated component). Actual loss in oil preasure would come from a fault in the components of the oiling system. i.e. Oil pump and it's components, oil galleries (restriction or damage), oil pressure sensor (though in the C5 oil pressure sensors typically short out causing the car to think that the oil pressure is high). A tell tail sign is when the needle on the oil pressure on the gauge is maxed out and on the D.I.C. You have an oil pressure reading of 130 psi.

A typical sign of a bad lifter will be noise.

Inspect that pump O-ring closely. If there is anything slightly wrong with it, it can be the culprit of your issue.

On the note of faulty oil pressure sensor, I said the reading of the sensor is typically high and that is typically an indication of a bad sensor. Keep in mind the high reading isn't always the case. There are instances where the reading can be low or none and the only culprit being the faulty sending unit. With that said, the absolute best way to test oil pressure of your cars oiling system is to put a mechanical gauge on it. However it is worthy to note that in putting a mechanical gauge on the car, to check the health of the oiling system one needs to be careful in the selection of where to take the reading. What I'm saying is there's more than one spot on the block to tap into the engines oil flow path so that you can acquire an oil pressure reading. However, GM put the factory oil pressure sensor in its location for a reason. A lot of people will take an oil pressure reading from that spot on the front of the block. This spot is not the same as taking a reading from the stock location! The stock pressure sensor location is on the outlet side of the oil filter. The plug on the front of the block is on the inlet side of the filter which is also the outlet of the pump. What this means is that the real risk is if something goes wrong or a filter is defecitve & has excessive pressure drop. In that case, the pressure in the oil galleys will drop, but pressure measured up stream of the filter will actually go up. Make sense? Your only getting the pump outlet pressure at that point and it wouldn't be possible to detect say a failed or failing main or rod bearing based on oil pressure.

There's company's that make oil pressure sensor relocation kits that relocate the sensor but still take the actual reading from the stock location.

 

Do it right the first time or do it again!

That's always been my motto.

 

Thanks MVP, that's some good info.

 

Definately some good info! Just got the 25% Power bond pulley on and got a right arm workout at the same time! Looks so pretty compared to my falling apart stock pulley (Well balancer to you guys).

Now im debating taking the rest of the harness off and just pulling the motor for the rear main seal real quick before I slap the heads back on. So I dont need to lower the front cradle to pull the motor from the top? Ive been reading in my 3 red corvette books. But they kinda leave alot to be desired.

 

If your taking the engine out and doing rod bolts, it would be a good idea to take them to a machine shop and make sure they are still round. Some have no problems, others eat bearings. I personally wouldn't do it without have them checked.