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Nagging problems, not a big issue, but I hate when things don't work.

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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 11:51 PM
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Default Nagging problems, not a big issue, but I hate when things don't work.

Fuel Cap opener switch doesn't work. Windshield washer fluid doesn't spray. I've only skimmed the surface on looking for the problem (checked fuses/connnections). Time to delve deeper, sigh. If any of you have faced similar trials, let me know your actions!
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 07:26 AM
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I once had a problem with my windshield wipers not working. Long story short, it ended up being some broken (corroded) wires that run under the battery tray. There must have been a battery leak in the past that ate through the bundle of wires. Luckily i found it before it took out other things. Spliced the broken wires, cleaned the wire bundle and all was good! Just something to check.
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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When you pull the lever to spray the washer fluid, does it sound like it is "trying" to spray? (ie, the pump kicks on but nothing comes out) Maybe it is possible that the lines are clogged? That might help narrow down a possible cause. The ground for the washer pump is SP101/G101, located on the left side just behind the headlight. It is possible that the connection is dirty or loose.
Have you checked the wiring connector under the center console/armrest, or just the fuse? It should be powered from IPEC fuse #32.
Hope this helps...
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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WHAT YEAR C5???

When you press the FUEL DOOR button, do you hear anything at all?

Could be a fuse or the connector for the switch is unplugged from the switch in the console.

Could also be corrosion in the latch mechanism at the fuel door. The spring is steel and can get rusted and stuck.

When I get home I will see if I can send you some schematics. Can’t do it from work.

BC
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 12:22 PM
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It's a 2003

Thanks for the input guys! The fuse to the fuel door is good to go, I pulled the console and checked the wiring and ensured the plug was plugged in and secure, and it was. I haven't tested to see if I'm getting power yet. When I press it I don't hear anything. I can pull the latch in the back of the hatch to open the fuel door and it swings right open. Hmm, now that I think about it, is that switch supposed to be illuminated like the traction control button is? It definitely wasn't illuminated when I was messing with it last night meaning it's probably not getting power to the switch.

For the windshield washer fluid, I believe fuse #10 in the IP was the fuse to check? Unless it's windshield wipers only. That fuse was good to go. I will check to see if the lines are clogged this evening, and I will also listen to see if the pump is kicking on and check the ground.

Last edited by Dcollins3208; Oct 31, 2013 at 03:06 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 10:22 AM
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My fuel door stopped opening on me a little over a year ago. Took everything apart in the console and confirmed that the switch was getting power and I had continuity through the switch when it was pressed. When I tried to use the manual pull latch in the trunk it just pulled right out!! Luckily I had some gas left in the tank to get me by for a few days when it happened. I got on the Forum and read everything that I could find and figured it was the electric latch release that had gone bad and I ordered 3 of them from separate Forum Members/Vendors. I was on the road for work and had to get it fixed quick since I had to drive home in a couple of days. The assembly from VetteNuts arrived the quickest!! Thanks Marc!!! Those guys are great!!
Since I was on the road and had no jacks or tools with me I ended up taking the assembly and the car to a local garage and had them change if for me. Pretty quick and easy to do. Wish I had been home and could have done it myself!
Anyway, I now have 2 extra assemblies from low mile cars in my garage, so, if it turns out this is what you need let me know and I'll sell you one of my extras for a good price.
It is very common for the problem to just be the return spring on the latch release mechanism. It will either rust and bind, as Bill Curlee has said, or, it will completely rust and fall into pieces, as mine did.
Hope that helps!!
Good luck!!
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Zmeister
My fuel door stopped opening on me a little over a year ago. Took everything apart in the console and confirmed that the switch was getting power and I had continuity through the switch when it was pressed. When I tried to use the manual pull latch in the trunk it just pulled right out!! Luckily I had some gas left in the tank to get me by for a few days when it happened. I got on the Forum and read everything that I could find and figured it was the electric latch release that had gone bad and I ordered 3 of them from separate Forum Members/Vendors. I was on the road for work and had to get it fixed quick since I had to drive home in a couple of days. The assembly from VetteNuts arrived the quickest!! Thanks Marc!!! Those guys are great!!
Since I was on the road and had no jacks or tools with me I ended up taking the assembly and the car to a local garage and had them change if for me. Pretty quick and easy to do. Wish I had been home and could have done it myself!
Anyway, I now have 2 extra assemblies from low mile cars in my garage, so, if it turns out this is what you need let me know and I'll sell you one of my extras for a good price.
It is very common for the problem to just be the return spring on the latch release mechanism. It will either rust and bind, as Bill Curlee has said, or, it will completely rust and fall into pieces, as mine did.
Hope that helps!!
Good luck!!
Thanks I appreciate it! I'll let you know if that ends up being the problem. I will say the fuel door opens just fine every time I pull the release in the hatch. I checked to ensure that it's plugged in properly but I have not checked to see if it's getting power to the switch yet. I will be running through everything this weekend, but just as a preliminary assumption, the switch for the fuel door opener is not illuminated at night like the traction control button is, is it safe to say that it's probably not getting power? I'll still be testing it either way.
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