Headlight stuff
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Sandy Springs
Headlight stuff
So, After a spirited run last night with some friends, It seems after we got to our destination, the driver light wouldnt go back down. I tapped it a few times, and it popped back down. Later after driving around town, maximum speed of 50 or so, it operated normally. THEN on the way back home( spirited driving again) the same light wouldn't go down again. I tapped a few times and down it went. NOw I'm wondering if this has to do with the speed involved? Does high prolonged speed overextend the light in its housing or something? Because after I tapped it a few times, I did a couple of cycles and they worked just fine. Or is it just time to have to make repairs? 03 C5
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
I would forget about whether speed has anything to do with it. You appear to have a mechanical issue in my opinion if you can tap it and have it go down. The control module activates the motors to go up or down. The motors shut off when the module senses high current because the buckets hit the stops. You do not want to damage a motor because it is running and trying to change position and it can't. Not a headlight expert but I do understand the basics of proposed operation. If anyone has another reason please feel free to chime in, I will not be offended.
The only other thing could be a bad motor where the brushes need a little help in rotation to get going but I would think this would affect opening and closing. sounds more like a gear related issue at the up position. Let us know what you find.
The only other thing could be a bad motor where the brushes need a little help in rotation to get going but I would think this would affect opening and closing. sounds more like a gear related issue at the up position. Let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Sandy Springs
So, after doing some testing, I have come up with more results to help pin this down. It doesn't seem to happen during the day when its warmer. The only other time it has had a problem was on a cold night in the low 40s. Also, I have noticed that the driver side seems to open and close slightly slower than the passenger. I just went to test this a few minutes ago and the first two times, it was very much slower.
BUT
After cycling a few times it caught up. And after several cycles it opened and closed normally. I didn't hear any loud grinding or popping.
I also have to admit that in the first post, the tapping may not have had anything to do with getting it down. because I tapped it, THEN cycled the lights.
BUT
After cycling a few times it caught up. And after several cycles it opened and closed normally. I didn't hear any loud grinding or popping.
I also have to admit that in the first post, the tapping may not have had anything to do with getting it down. because I tapped it, THEN cycled the lights.
Last edited by CycledeLex; Nov 9, 2013 at 03:35 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 219
From: West Branch, MI
Ok before you start throwing $$ at it, try some simple things. There are actuator arms (from motor to headlight module) that for various reasons might be binding slightly. Take the black light cowl off (3 phillips screws) and then spray some WD-40 or such on the pivots on the actuator arms. Also, just for funnies, there are several insulator bump stops on the headlights (if I remember correctly, 2 on the back and 2 on the side) and they simply push onto a flat metal connector. Try taking those off and turning them over as well. I like to try and get stuff working correctly without spending much if possible. Good luck. 
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Sandy Springs
Thank you veru much Cactus cat, for your well informed and thought out response. I'll check that immediately. If that doesn't work, I'm leaning towards a new motor. Because I can screw the light just fine manually, the intermittent nature of the problem, And I dont hear noises.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Sandy Springs
OK, so I am seriously on the fence about this driver light now. Before it was just affected by cold. And only happened intermittently. NOw it just full on won't open. I'm very unsure as to whether it is the actual motor or the gear. I can manually open and close it from under the hood without problem. Now though, the light just wont open. When I flip the switch it just clicks once.just once.(Similar to a car trying to start with a dead battery). I can see the manual **** on the motor twist about 1/8 a turn and stop. NO other noises. no grinding or whirring. I dont want to buy a new gear and then turn around and have to get a whole motor. Any ideas?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every Model vs Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)
Joe Kucinski
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
Most likely it is the motor since you can manually operate them and the module sends a signal to open and the motor tries a little. To rule out the module you can just jumper 12 volts to the motor, or remove it and test it on the bench. There are no limit switches to limit door movement. The module just senses high current when the door hits the stops and it shuts off the motor.