OK, got the Vortex, Granatelli and ripper in. I am still deciding on a rear end but will probably go with the 3.90 for durability. Anyway, I want a cam and fast. It seems like a great bang for the buck mod. Here is what I want: I need a cam that gives me the most hp without making the car very loud. I am adament about keeping the sound as "stock" as possible. I am using my stock exhaust and plan to keep it stock. I want this car to be as much as a "sleeper" as possible. I plan on having my mechanic port and polish the stock heads while he is doing the cam. Could someone recommend a cam that won't be very aggressive sounding but still give me alot of bang for the buck? As always, thanx for all your opinions. You guys are awesome.

 

Dude,

It's not as simple as that! I'm in the process of deciding on a cam; it's the most confusing mod I've ever had to understand.

1st while you are making the heads breath better you have to put in bigger valves & springs.

Now it sounds like you are interested in drag racing, and the type of performance you want is critical to your cam selection.

Me I want mid-top range performace for road racing. I think I'm going with a 224/224 .561/561. 114 LSA

What I've found though is that the more people you talk to the more confused you get.

Good luck!

 

You guys would be surprised at how much that 224 cam makes at the bottom end. Although it does pretty well up top, it still makes a TON of torque down low. The idle is noticeable , but barely. I installed one in a car a few week sa go , with no tuning, and it idled just fine. I don't think I would go any smaller if you're looking for good power. I jumped up to a 230 and , in all honest, I think I may just go back to the 224.

 

OK, heard a clip of a TR 220/220 .561/.561 114 LSA cam and it is up my alley. It sounded basically stock on a stock exhaust. Andy or someone else. Would the 224 be much more noticable (louder, lopey) and also what about hp gains with the 220 and how much more using the 224. Thanx guys.

 

Can anybody post a sound file of a 224 cam?

Thanks!

Frank

 

I hear that MTI's C1 cam is good ...

 

MTI's B1 cam is barely noticeable if you bump your idle up to 850+. It also makes tons of power. :yesnod:
I on the other hand am looking to go larger but do not care about lope as much. I may try the C1 cam out. :cool:

 

I don't have any cam advice, but I'ld suggest not wanting to keep the exhaust stock....

I don't hear of any vettes with flowmasters, but they sound very good.... better than borla, magnaflow, hooker aeros, turbos, whatever, anything
you can put on.

I have 40s originals on my truck and it sounds very power and rumbles well, even shakes some things close to the pipes.

Flowmaster makes mufflers speccialy to fit vette oem muffler set up, you should listen to the flows....... they are better than stock.

 

I got my 224 cam at MMS.
I love it.
BTW, I call it the 10 second cam! :D

 

Try the MTI C2 cam - its the chunkiest!

 

As others have said, you're gonna get lots of VERY different answers to this. I say you don't need to go real wild on duration to make good power. My "little" 218/218 duration, 114 lsa, .561" lift cam makes great power, the idle sounds stock, and you don't have to rev it to the moon for peak power. It also gives better than stock gas mileage, and passes the sniffer test, with ease. Why go bigger? :D

 

Because you can go bigger and still have all those attributes. :yesnod:

Picking a cam is really not as difficult as one may think (unless you get into turbo cams....)
Here is a basic summary of what you want to keep in mind. If you need any more assistance, feel free to give me a ring...

1) Intake duration - increases the rpm at which the HP and Torque value peak - Hp will increase, torque may stay the same or drop. A bigger intake duration can give a worse idle

2) Exhaust duration - may increase torque or keep it the same, will extend the HP range without changing the peak hp much. A bigger exhaust duration can give a worse idle

3) Lift - more lift is always good - it's free hp and torque. The only negative is wear on valvesprings. Get as much lift as possible, but don't sacrafice other specs for lift.

4) LSA - the narrower (lower number) the lower the rpm peak and higher the torque value. Hp peak will generally stay the same, but the rpm at which it occurs will be lower. Overlap will increase and the cam will be "lumpier" As it (LSA) increases your torque value may stay the same or lower. The rpm of your hp peak will increase, and your hp value may also increase - though at a higher rpm. Your average torque will be lower. The cam will idle better as the LSA get's wider (bigger).

5) Advance (LSA - Intake Centerline = advance) Advancing the cam will shift your torque curve to the left so yoru peaks are at a lower rpm, and your hp values are lower (because of lower rpm). Retarding it will do the opposite. Advancing helps idle, retarding hurts it.