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HVAC Issue: Diagnosis?

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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 11:12 PM
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Default HVAC Issue: Diagnosis?

Issue: Weak heating/cooling on driver side, and NO heating/cooling (but blows air) on passenger side.
Onset: Doing a motor swap I briefly cracked a line open thinking I had to remove compressor. Line did not lose all pressure, just a few seconds. It has been this way since the swap.
Codes: None
Repair Attempt: I put my gauges on it and pumped in some R134a until the pressures were correct. The situation only improved minimally.

Ideas?

Last edited by BQuicksilver; Dec 19, 2013 at 11:34 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 08:27 AM
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Have you performed a full A/C evacuation and recharge?

Do you have manual or automatic HVAC controls?

There is a vacuum line that goes to the passenger side of the engine compartment under neath the battery. Easier to access it from the wheel well. I've seen these break, causing HVAC temperature/door problems. I think this is only if you have a manual HVAC controller.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 11:46 AM
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Our AC system is VERY sensitive to proper R-134 pressures. The Service manual is VERY specific on operating pressures and has a procedure and detailed graph on pressure High Side & Low Side at various temperatures and humidity levels at a set RPM. Get a set of gages and obtain that chart. Knowing the high and low side pressures and help you pin point issues like low pressure, clogged orifice tubes excessive oil, etc…

You need a FULL SET of gages to monitor those pressures on both sides to get the unit to work correctly.

Can you switch the vent outputs to all the different levels Defrost, upper vents, lower vents, switch from recirc to fresh air??

OR

Does the air flow from all the vents and you are unable to command the changes. If that’s the case, you’re missing the reference vacuum line on the back of the intake manifold or you have a damaged vacuum tube. In the picture you can see the thin nylon vacuum line with the 90 deg boot. It is very short and pops off the vacuum



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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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n8dogg: No, I haven't done a full overhaul. Would prefer to diagnose what is up with the heat only on driver side before I fully recharge then realize I have some actuator issue as the main problem.

I have the automatic HVAC controls.

I'd be interested in seeing a shot of that vac line, just to be sure. My headers love to melt things.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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Bill: I have that $70 HF set of gauges. They're well-reviewed and seem to be one of HF's better tools.

What would I see with a clogged orifice tube or accumulator issue? I purchased both, but would rather not vac it down and open it up until I have a good theory on why the air only works for the driver.

I'm pretty sure recirc and the defrost work, but haven't tried the others. Will report back.

YES!! The air flows but I cannot command temps only in pass side. When I pulled the mani that little vac line was off without me pulling it. I could have just pulled it loose on accident during removal, but I'm suspicious it was off before now that you say this.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 12:48 PM
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That Nylon line is inside the main wiring harness that runs from behind the engine to the PCM. If you look closely behind the passengers head, you can see where it enters the harness. You have to look in the passengers fender well to see where it comes out.

The DOES NOT like heat or battery acid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Acid eats it up like butter.



I made mine longer for ease of reinstallation and to fit better on my FAST 90 intake:




VACUUM RESIVOUR


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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 01:03 PM
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Bill, I just want a collection of all your secret views inside our cars, hehe.

I will have to reinstall that manifold and report back, but wouldn't we expect a code if the vacuum reference was off?
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 01:09 PM
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If the system was working before you cracked the line open and never worked afterwards, then you have the wrong amount of refrigerant in system and/or moisture ("air") in the system.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jedblanks
If the system was working before you cracked the line open and never worked afterwards, then you have the wrong amount of refrigerant in system and/or moisture ("air") in the system.
Certainly a possibility. Would air cause the system to only work on one side? The pressures were correct after charging with reference to the chart on charge pressures vs temp, but the system still only adjusts on the driver side.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 01:53 PM
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How are you reading the DTCs??? If you use the DIC Built in code reader, it will show you actuator DTCs if the actuators are not responding.

They are B-0361, 0363, 0365, 0367, 0441, 0446.

NO,, the detached HVAC Vacuum reff line will not throw a DTC.

IF,, you have the DTCs and clear them, the actuators should cycle full range and then return to what the **** is set to.

If you listen to the center vent you can usually hear them cycle.

You can also pull fuse #25 and that will reset the controler and it should cycle also.




Bill
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BQuicksilver
Issue: Weak heating/cooling on driver side, and NO heating/cooling (but blows air) on passenger side.
Onset: Doing a motor swap I briefly cracked a line open thinking I had to remove compressor. Line did not lose all pressure, just a few seconds. It has been this way since the swap.
Codes: None
Repair Attempt: I put my gauges on it and pumped in some R134a until the pressures were correct. The situation only improved minimally.

Ideas?
Did you bleed the air out of hoses before you hooked up to ac system?> If not you just added a non condesable to the sytem which will create mositure and will turn to acid and destroy your system
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