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I have 97 stick with cai, long tubes, exhaust and its dyno tuned. The car lately has been running rough and smels terrible. At idle sometimes it almost stalls out but it doesn't. I checked all fluids and plugs and wires and they're all good. I took to autozone for a free scan and it came up as an o2 sensor. I initially thought it could be a bad cat because of the smell but more mechanicas than not told me to change sensors. Ps e cats are 6 months old.
Ok so I know there 4 and they are all different. Can anyone shed some light where each one goes with a diagram or something. Since its so easy to just unscrew and replace I plan to do it myself.
2 front ones are for fuel delivery, the rear 2 are used to determine if the catalytic converters are functioning correctly. I hook one of my scanners up to check the output of the O2's. You want to graph the output of the O2's to see if they are switching from lean->rich and rich-lean in a regular pattern. By the way, you do not need a scanner to get codes from a C5, a Senior member should know this already.
I agree. Pull the codes on the DIC. The codes will tell you more than it is an O2 sensor. It will tell you which one as well as some detail like out of range, or heater circuit malfunction, etc. Once you pull the codes, the meaning of the codes can be found here too (or post the codes and forum members can help).
With longtube headers, frequently the rear two sensors may have been tuned out and no longer present. I don't know on your car, but if you look under it you should be able to see.
If you are tuned as stated, your tuner most likely turned the rears off and turn off any warnings/DTC/CEL to remain off.
The code received saying the O2 was bad, what was the code as that will tell you what side it was or based on miles you can replace both front at same time and the torque setting on them is 30LB
If you are tuned as stated, your tuner most likely turned the rears off and turn off any warnings/DTC/CEL to remain off.
The code received saying the O2 was bad, what was the code as that will tell you what side it was or based on miles you can replace both front at same time and the torque setting on them is 30LB
Thanks for the help. Has 80k. I figured I'll just do both front at the same time.
I recently had these same type issues, after getting under the car, I found one side (passenger) the wires to the sensor had came in to contact with the header, after repairing everything was fine. The sensors can and will affect the car 4 sure.
I recently had these same type issues, after getting under the car, I found one side (passenger) the wires to the sensor had came in to contact with the header, after repairing everything was fine. The sensors can and will affect the car 4 sure.
Good luck
I haven't gotten under it yet but I feel as though I might have the same issue. Its been weird ever since I did the headers. What exactly was wrong with your connector? Did you repair or replace it? Do I need it up high on a lift or can I just jack it up and do it in my garage on jack stands?
If you are tuned as stated, your tuner most likely turned the rears off and turn off any warnings/DTC/CEL to remain off.....
Frequently when longtubes are put on and the rear O2's are tuned out, the rear O2's are put in the front positions. (some say because they have better heaters and work better with headers). Note that the front vs. rear sensors have different connectors so the rears in the front use an adapter connector between the O2 connector and the wiring harness connector. Make sure whatever ones you have in front now are replaced with the same type.
I haven't gotten under it yet but I feel as though I might have the same issue. Its been weird ever since I did the headers. What exactly was wrong with your connector? Did you repair or replace it? Do I need it up high on a lift or can I just jack it up and do it in my garage on jack stands?
Thanks
I did mine not too long ago. The bank 2 sensor was throwing codes so I jacked it up, pulled it, and replaced. You can easily do it with jack stands. I just jacked mine up using 2 jacks (one on each side just behind the front tire where the jacking point is), secured it with jack stands and got up under the car and did what I needed to. Also replaced the starter this way too.
I haven't gotten under it yet but I feel as though I might have the same issue. Its been weird ever since I did the headers. What exactly was wrong with your connector? Did you repair or replace it? Do I need it up high on a lift or can I just jack it up and do it in my garage on jack stands?
Thanks
Dcollins gave you good advice, jack the car where you can set it on jack stands, plenty of great threads on how to properly secure the car on stands, I had 2 of the 4 wires that had melted due to contact, I also had the front 0/2 sensors with extensions, since the damage was in the extension, I removed it and repaired the 2 wires using butt connectors and heat shrink, very easy, I had planned to order a new extension, but my car is running do dam good I don't want to mess with it, I did wrap the wires in loom and rerouted both sides to a safer location, next time I go under there I will probably change out both sensors and extensions while I'm there, it's not a difficult job and can easily be done on jack stands.
Good luck, let us know what you find ok
All fixed. Turns out it was the passenger o2 sensor. Once I got under it I saw that the plastic harness was resting on the header flange. I changed the sensor and re routed it and all good. I washed her up all nice and had her out for a nice test drive all day yesterday. Now back in the garage for the upcoming snow.