I have a 2001 FLP header systemthat is almost ready to go in, and have read that I need to remove the valve covers...

1. Is this true?

2. If they come off, how easy will it be to install 1.8 roller rockers with minimal mechanical skill?

 

i'd like to know too- ttt

 

You won't have to remove valve covers to install your headers. Only the plastic coil covers and coil packs. If you want to remove the valve covers after the other stuff is off it would only take a few minutes. It's pretty simple.

-Blackjack :flag

 

 

Installing the 1.8 rockers should be installed by someone with experience. If you do it wrong, you will hurt the cam, valves & Heads. :yesnod:

vetterdstr :cheers:

 

How - other than not torquing them to the correct specs? how can you get them wrong? :confused: The destructions were pretty straight forward.. :yesnod:

 

You can overtighten them or undertighten them. Trust me it can happen. The first shop that did mine did them wrong and they have been doing this for 30 years... :( The second shop (which builds Race Engines for a living) did it correctly.

Just trying to save you guys headaches down the road.... Seriously, If you feel that you can do it youself, by all means do the install. :yesnod: :smash:

vetterdstr :cheers:

 

Ya - I have heard that you can easily over tighten them - although - if you have a torque wrench and set it correctly you should be ok.. :D

Never a bad thing to be precautious.. :yesnod:

 

This and LS1 edit are my next 2 planned mods...I'm changing springs at the same time since the covers will be off anyway. In a few weeks, I'll let you know what they did for me

 

One more bit of information... if you swap your lifters for the 1.8 Cranes, you will need to also swap out the Valve springs. Only the 01 & 02 Z06's have springs good enough to use without changing springs. If you need the kit to swap the springs while the heads are on the car. You can buy it from T. Byrne Motorsports for a very good price.

vetterdstr :cheers:

 

I have an '01. How hard is it to do the rollers-how precise do you have to be...?

 

If you had a person who knew how to adjust the lifters you will do fine. Since you dont have a Z06 you will need to install new springs, or you will have valve float above 5600 rpm! Just like I did! :cry

vetterdstr :cheers:

 

I also was looking at this mod but was talked out of it from two reputable and popular C5 tuners. Really there is little bang for the buck there. The rockers and pushrods are nearly $700...that's alot of $$ for maybe 10 h.p. at best. It might be a good idea when or if you install the heads and cam since everything is apart already ..............just my .02:D

 

If you have a stock H/C setup, you could use the SLP rockers. These would give you the a 1.85 ratio but because they are non adjustable cost about $250 less.

 

It depends on which rockers you use. The SLP, non-adjustable, rockers install like the stock rocker arms. This means you just torque them to spec.

Other, adjustable, rocker arms require a special procedure in which you set the valve lash. If you don’t follow the procedure correctly, damage will likely occur.

The reason you would want to install an adjustable rocker instead of non-adjustable is that if you have had the heads or deck (block) milled it changes the vale train geometry and a adjustable rocker is the best way to accommodate the differences. In addition, the ability to precisely adjust the valve lash means you might be able to squeeze a few more RPM’s out of it.

Since SLP offers spring kits to go along with their rockers, it is good to assume that a ZO6 spring package is the minimum you should use with high ratio rocker arms, regardless of who makes them.

I first installed high ratio, adjustable rocker arms over 30 years ago. The procedure then with hydraulic, flat-tappet cams is much different than with the hydraulic roller-tappet cams of today.

To install Crane adjustable rocker arms, the correct procedure for the C5 is as follows:

Remove the engine covers, coil packs, spark plug wires, spark plugs, valve covers, rocker arms and rocker arm studs. Since the Crane kit includes pushrod guideplates, remove the mounting plate that is under the stock rockers.

After cleaning the rocker boss area thoroughly, install the guideplates using the Crane rocker arm studs. Use a jam nut and torque the rocker arm studs to 22lb-ft. and use Locktite on the threads.

Lubricate the ends of the Crane supplied heat-treated pushrods and install the pushrods and rocker arms. Tighten down the rocker arm adjustment nut just enough to remove any play (zero lash). Don’t tighten the rocker to the point that it preloads the lifter or the valve spring.

Mark the crank pulley and turn the crankshaft over by hand one full revolution (no more, no less). Since some of the lifters were riding on the ramp of the cam, they were not really adjusted to zero lash. Adjust the remaining rockers to zero lash. Turn the crankshaft one more revolution (last time this needs to be done) and check that all the rockers are adjusted to zero lash.

Let the lifters bleed down for 30 minutes and check the rockers for zero lash. Then tighten each rocker adjusting nut ¼ turn and allow the lifters to bleed down for 15 minutes. Perform the procedure 7 more times until each adjusting nut is tightened 2 full turns. Be sure to wait 15 minutes between ¼ turns to allow the lifters to bleed down or you could damage the engine.
To keep the adjustment nut from moving install the supplied, set screw for each rocker, making sure you hold the adjustment nut in place while you tighten the set screw. Once this final step is done you can button everything back up.

Note: on a ’97 & ’98 LS1, you will need to check the clearance for the rocker arms. It may be necessary to remove material where the perimeter valve cover bolts mount on the intake side of the heads. Crane supplies a diagram that shows what you may have to remove.

 

"The reason you would want to install an adjustable rocker instead of
non-adjustable is that if you have had the heads or deck (block) milled it
changes the vale train geometry and a adjustable rocker is the best way to
accommodate the differences. In addition, the ability to precisely adjust the
valve lash means you might be able to squeeze a few more RPM’s out of it."

Sorry, I gotta 100% disagree with this. Decking a block or milling a head doesn't change the rocker-to-valve geometry which is the most important part of the valve train geometry. It only changes the rocker-to-pushrod geometry and using the rocker to adjust for this is wrong. The correct fix is to use the proper length pushrod. The change you recommend would make the rocker-to-valve geometry wrong. In addition, "Precisely adjusting the valve lash" does nothing in a hydraulic lifter motor other than precisely adjust the lifter preload which means nothing as long as lifter piston travel is not exceeded. It ain't gonna buy you 1 RPM. The one minor exception is when you zero (or near zero) lash. This will prevent the lifters from pumping up when you float the valves. However, it doesn't allow you to float the valves without cooking the springs so it doesn't let you buzz it any higher.