I have a 1999 corvette Dash didn't work when I bought it as in no guages ,fuel ,spedo tach,temp nothing but battery light and seat belt light do come on Ive checked the grounds under the hood,very clean there is 2 fuses for dash one has power one doesn't but fuse is good do these dashes burn out? Ive read that you can relearn the computer should I try that? any info would help trying to avoid a hefty bill at dealer

 

Well, if you have an IPC fuse with no power that should raise your attention. Exactly which fuses did you test and which number has no power?

Here is what the fuses should be and the related IPC grounds:

These fuses are in the passenger foot well fuse box.

Fuse #19 (only powered when ignition is ON)
Fuse #25 (powered all the time)
G205, G104, G201

Don't worry about the grounds at this time, I just need the fuse info.

 

A DC VOLT METER is your FRIEND!!!!!!! Obtain one and actually MEASURE the actual voltage on each fuse to ground.

Some fuses are HOT all the time and some are only HOT when the ignition switch is ON.

Each fuse has TWO test slots on top. Measure the slots to chassis ground and make sure that you get full battery voltage on each test point.

List results:

There are several things that can be wrong. the voltage readings need to be done FIRST!

NEXT: Read and post ALL your DTCs. If you have a TON of them, CLEAR all of them and them see what comes back. List all of them. Make sure that you also include the H, C or HC sufix.

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.



BC

Bill

 

i just checked turns out I do have power on 19 and 25 fuses as you stated when I check # 19 with key on I hear a click from something by the fuse panel a relay or somthing, I cant read the codes as that does not light up either so I cant even see the miles

 

I assume you checked both sides of the fuse or otherwise made sure they were good.

Bill asked for voltages at each. Did you do that?

Do the IPC gauges have light on them? They are lighted by 2 UV bulbs to the left and right of the gauges. Makes the dials glow due to the fluorescent effect. Try it at night to make sure they do or do not.

Forgot to ask, do you have a HUD? If so, does it work?

 

yes there was power at both sides car is not HUD at night no lights ,voltage when key is on both fuses 12.10 when car is running 14.5

 

If fuses, voltages and grounds are fine perhaps it would be best to check if the main connector behind the IPC is fully seated before you go really crazy about this.

You mentioned you bought your car like that, so it's possible that the previous owner had removed or worked around the IPC leaving that plug unsecured and eventually causing bad contacts.

 

I checked that also first thats why I was wondering do these dashes just burn out or would computer need reprogramed ?

 

The dashes have been known to go bad. There is nothing to reprogram that will restore the IPC.

 

Ok thanks for all the info looking for a used dash now

 

You have an option, the non HUD IPCs are cheaper but either will work in your car. If you ever think you might want to add HUD, then get a HUD IPC.

When you get your IPC installed and working you will need to have the mileage reset. A dealer can do that or a speedometer shop.

SteveDotenMotorworks is a good contact for IPCs and HUDs. He is a Forum member and vendor.

Let us know if you need any installation guidance.

 

ok thanks