Have a 50th anniversary automatic--came to a stop after parking car, went to shift to the PARK position and had no control with the paddle wheel---just went up and down without engaging in any gear--checked what fuses I thought might be burned--found nothing--turned off car and then was unable to restart---ANY SUGGESTIONS WHAT TO CHECK??--Thanks--Steven

 

WELL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The very FIRST thing that you should do is Read and Post all the DTCs that are present. IF,,, you have a ton of DTCs, clear them ALL and recheck after turning the ignition off and back to ON.

Check the DTCs:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Might start by removing the shift **** (Clip on front of shift **** pulls out) and shift boot (search how to install automatic shift boot on the CF) and see if there is any obvious malfunction. I dont know if these are electric or cable shifters like the older cars... if its a cable make sure its connected to the shifter so that it pulls/pushes the shift lever correctly..

Does the shifting between the positions feel any different? Did you check for codes? I would think somehthing on the trans side (electronic) would trigger a code if that was the problem. Im guessing something mechanical with the shift lever.

S

 

Cable probably broke.

 

What paddle wheel?

 

 

it's usually not the cable itself, but the little ball socket connectors on the ends. They are not serviced separately. So you would still have to change the cable. The trans is probably still in OD or R, that's why it doesn't start.

 

An option GM started installing/retro-fitting on cars near flood zones. Quite popular in Mississippi and Louisiana after Katrina.

 

 

Thanks to everyone with their help. Sounds like the best thing for me to do is to have it towed and serviced, as the possible repairs are beyond my very limited ability.