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Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement

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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:55 AM
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Default Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement

I'm going to replace oil sensor on a 2002 Corvette. I'm a novice DIY with a couple questions. (1) I'm going to either completely remove the manifold or slide it forward enough to get to the sensor. Is there a gasket under the manifold that is reusable or do I need to get a new gasket ? (2) Is there a torque amount on the 10 manifold bolts when I put it back in place ? (3) What is the best sensor to get other than a GM sensor ? (4) Will I be able to do this without discnnecting the two wire braided fuel lines on the driver's side ?
Thanks in advance, wish me luck.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 12:34 PM
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good luck with the job, however I cant answer. mine was done by lethal performance in san Antonio and it didn't take them long at all. I do not recall getting a gasket though. just the part and labor
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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Look thru this. It's a good write up
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...placement.html

I have also read it is easier to remove the brake booster line at the booster

Last edited by Smoken1; Apr 9, 2014 at 01:03 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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There is not one big long gasket or two long ones like the old days. Each port has it's own rubber/foam gasket. They are usually OK to reuse once or twice. When you pull it off you'll see and you can decide for yourself.

The torque setting is about 80 INCH POUNDS - NOT FOOT POUNDS. It also has to be done in two stages - first to about 40 INCH POUNDS then go around again to about 80 INCH pounds.

You should follow the recommended order of bolt tightening. It starts in the middle and goes out in alternating sides. You should be able to find the torque setting and the sequence somewhere in the forum or the library. Don't over do it, it is just plastic pressing on foam gaskets.

Don't over-torque that new sender unit. Over-tightening is a major cause of these multiple failures. Just tight enough so it doesn't leak.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:34 PM
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I've changed out 2 without moving the intake, the first one too a hour the next one took about 20 minutes. Good luck.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by OLD BROWNIE
........... (4) Will I be able to do this without discnnecting the two wire braided fuel lines on the driver's side ?
Don't know what you mean by "two wire braided fuel lines". If you mean the fuel line, there's only one on your vehicle. Although it CAN be done without disconnecting, it's much better to disconnect it.

Pay special attention to the small 1/8" nylon vacuum line at the rear of the manifold gets re-connected.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 01:26 AM
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As for better then oem sensor, get one from Autozone. The Duralast brand is just a box. They actually use quality stuff. Their oil pressure sensor lasts longer then stock, has a lifetime warranty and is cheaper. Ive had mine on for a few years now with no issues. Its been on and off a few times too as Ive built two motors.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 02:50 AM
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If you take the intake off, take it all the way off ... don't just slide it forward. There is usually tons of dirt and sand under the intake manifold, and you need to clean all that up or you could get some down the intake ports. Not a good thing.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
If you take the intake off, take it all the way off ... don't just slide it forward. There is usually tons of dirt and sand under the intake manifold, and you need to clean all that up or you could get some down the intake ports. Not a good thing.

If you are going to do something, don't half-a$$ it...take it all the way off; it'll make the job easier. Plus you'll have "access" to inspect the intake port seals. As others have said, they are ok to reuse if in good condition.

When my EOP sensor finally went out, I replaced with p/n BWD-2402, purchased from O'Reilly. Well, I think that's the part number. Point is that they stock them as well. I've had no issues with mine so far....well over a year, if not closer to two.

The torque specification is actually 44 in-lbs for the first pass and 89 in-lbs for the second pass. The sensor torque is 15 ft-lbs. You can find the values here: http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...orqueSpecs.pdf

Here is a write-up for the intake manifold R&R, including the proper torque sequence for the manifold fasteners: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5. The write-up linked in post #3 is just as good, if not better

Good luck!

Last edited by sunchaser73; Apr 10, 2014 at 09:13 AM. Reason: additional info at end of post
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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The write up in post no 3 is the on I used, it is much easier to disconnect the fuel line(s) than to remove the injectors.

There is no need to remove the steam tubes either, just disconnect the coolant tubes from the throttle body as noted in no 3. This is a good time to put in a throttle body coolant bypass.

I believe that the FSM calls for blue thread locker on the manifold bolts.

I used rubber bands to hold up the two rear bolts after they were loose so that they would not catch on the heads and mar the surfaces. Those two bolts will not come out of the manifold until it has been move forward.
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Old Apr 12, 2014 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 93065Z06
So did you do it ????????
Do it what? I said I 've change out 2 OPS sending units on 99 FRC's (2) different cars without moving or loosening the intake. Not a big deal.
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