What is the force required to turn the steering wheel of a 2001 vette? OR Has anyone know of this issue on another 2001? If so how was it repaired?

Problem began when the pump blew in Labrador Canada. there wasn't any corvette parts available. so I had to ad Lucas stop leak to limp back to Florida. finally the pump gave out and had to be replaced

my trustworthy mechanic has done major work on the front end of my vette.
There is a factory pump, steering box, front end, the system has been flushed more than once, and Lucas high grade steering fluid added.

now the force required to turn the wheel is as if there is no power steering. I was told the steering stiffens at higher speed. if that is true turning the wheel at 75 mph would be difficult.

I was thinking, a way to get a rough measurement would be to use a luggage scale,(I use one to pick up my luggage at home to measure the weight), hook it to the steering wheel and record how many pounds is required to move the steering wheel.

 

Forget trying to measure the force. You have a problem.

Pull your DIC codes and let's see if it might be a Magnasteer issue.

 

dadaroo, i don't know why but I didn't see this response before i sent you the code question. i do not have a tech II to do the codes. i have asked my fellow club members i someone has one. there has been no response one way or the other as of now.

 

Codes and how to pull them from the DIC

 

Dadaroo, there are multiple threads for this power steering issue. is there a way to combine them and then edit them so there is one thread?

 

You don't need a Tech II to retrieve the codes. You can get them through the DIC following these simple steps:


The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module (i.e. PCM = 4 codes). If none are present in a given module, you will see "No More Codes" on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it is potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once or more than once, but it is inconsistent. Or it may be happening on a regular basis, but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present, press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET. To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES. Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.

NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTCs that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using IB AutoGroup

 

that is so helpful. thank you

 

Thank you so much.

 

I have obtained the codes as instructed. All codes have an "H" a few spaces away from the actual code. i'm guessing the "H" means history. After recording the codes i cleared all codes in each module.
Could somebody tell me a mileage to adequately display new codes?

 

Are you going to tell us what the codes were?

PS: If you pull the codes after you shut the engine off, most will show as H and not C even if they were actually Current while driving.

If I understand your question, pull your codes any time there appears to be a problem or once a month just to see if anything is showing up. You can do it as often as you want.

 

The instructions were to turn the car on but do not start it.
These are the codes:
28TCS
C1287 H
C1288 H
58SDM
B0026 H
60IPC
BO516

I hope these are correct.

 

Yes you understand the procedure suggested to me by "GCH" and "Smokin 1" in previous posts.

 

"b0516" should read "b0516 h"

 

The C1287/C1288 are for the SWPS ( steering wheel positioning sensor) going out. These will cause your cruise control to drop out and your AH to engage when you are driving. Can be pretty scary going 70 mph and have your car pull to the side all of a sudden. Had to change mine out in my 04. Costs about $65 at www.gmpartshouse.com and takes about 2.5 to 3 hrs to replace.

 

coia thank you. very good information

 

I drove the vette 12 miles. i checked the codes. all modules reported no codes! The voltage gauge is fluctuating. The reading starting out is 13.8. It then starts to decrease to as low as 11.8. While sitting at the gauge is constantly fluctuating. The fluctuation is not as constant when driving. My mechanic told me the voltage from the alternator is 14.3.

The steering remains stiff.

 

i noticed a sound coming from the engine compartment that sounded like a bearing had gone bad in the alternator or some other shaft/axle part. i used the, old school 1x1 board, to listen to all those parts i could get to and didn't detect the sound. however as the engine warmed up the sound dissipated slowly until there was a "spitting" sound and disappeared. has anyone heard air in the steering system? if so could my cars sound be air in the system?

 

Hi members, the vette continues to have tight steering. on the display in the instrument panel it lit up "competition drive" (I think mode was at the end but not sure). would someone let me know what that means and if it could indicate why the steering is tight?

 

What that means is that AH is ON but TC is OFF. You can enter that mode by holding down the TC switch on the console for a few seconds.

It has no affect on steering difficulty.

 

Man, I'd love to tighten up my steering. Too bad there is no easy setting to play with to tighten up the feel.

Anyway, are you sure that the preload adjustment was not overtightened?