The maual transmission in my 98 will not go into reverse and it's missing 3rd and 4th gear. I'm going to assume it's in "limp mode". However, I was told by several other Corvette owners it may be just the "shift solenoid"...the check engine light decided to show up so I took it to autozone for a quick scan, shift solenoid is what came back. Does anyone has an idea of how much work that actually is, and what it should cost?

 

Not at home now with the FSM. Why did you go to AutoZone when you can pull your own codes from the DIC? You need to learn how to do that since they can't pull all the codes but you can.

Later I can post all the info you need including a video of how to do it.

 

DID you check the fuse that supplies power for the shift solenoid??????

Here is how to read your own DTC from the drivers seat:


READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

That would be fuse 19 in the engine fuse box.

Also in that fuse box, relay 42 is in the circuit which feeds fuse 19. Also fuse 16 provides power to the relay 24 coil. I think if the relay and fuse 16 were an issue you would have other issues but have not looked into were the other circuits go.

 

Money well spent !

 

If it is the reverse solenoid I looked in the FSM to see what it said. I was very surprised to see it is not a simple task. Big picture you need to lower the rear suspension about 1 1/2 inches to access and remove.

Here are the steps from the Service Manual ...

1) Disconnect battery
2) raise and support vehicle rear end
3) remove both wheels
4) remove intermediate exhaust to muffler bolts
5) tie off mufflers to underbody so they are out of the way
6) remove the rear transverse spring
7) disconnect wiring harness and brake pipe retainer clips from rear crossmember
8) position a transmission jack under rear suspension crossmember and secure to the jack
9) Remove the rear crossmember retaining nuts - use only hand tools
10) Slowly lower the rear suspension crossmember about 1 1/2 inch ... be certain not to have driveline come in contact with the driveline closeout panel (tunnel plate)
11) disconnect solenoid electrical connection at solenoid
12) remove solenoid (J41099 tool)


It identifies a special removal tool J41099 which looks like a typical sender or sensor tool. My searching says it is just a deep socket and a 1 5/16 inches or a 34 mm will work. Not something that needs a "perfect" fit since you are not using a high torque.