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The first thing I did was to replace the bulb. Speedy clicking noise when I use the left blinker and corresponding hazard light is also out. If I turn on the DRL and/or the head lights the bulb lights up. I am guessing a fuse is out but can't find one that is blown (maybe I pulled the wrong fuse/s).
Any ideas?
Thanks
Zed
Last edited by Zeds dead; May 16, 2014 at 09:42 AM.
The turn signal bulbs are dual filament, and its not uncommon for only one filament to go out (turn signal) with the other filament (running lights) still intact. My understanding is that both front turn signals are on the same fuse. The same fuse also controls the dashboard indicator arrow, so if the arrow lights up but the actual turn signal bulb does not - than the fuse is not your problem and its the bulb.
I would replace the bulb. A replacement incandescent bulb is only a few dollars. They're amber colored 3157 bulbs for the front turn signals/DRLs.
Here's the quick easy way to change it:
Last edited by PhysicsDude55; May 16, 2014 at 12:21 AM.
The DRL works when I turn the on the parking lights and the head lights but does work when I use the signal, hazards or when I arm the car. Changed the bulb no luck.
Dumb question but a rapid clicking from the turn signal usually means a filament is out so that said. When you turn on the left turn signal, is the rear taillight blinking, even rapidly? If so, I would think you may still have a problem with the bulb, bad bulb or socket?
Jerry
Dumb question but a rapid clicking from the turn signal usually means a filament is out so that said. When you turn on the left turn signal, is the rear taillight blinking, even rapidly? If so, I would think you may still have a problem with the bulb, bad bulb or socket?
Jerry
Not a dumb question and thanks for the reply. Bad socket makes sense. Yes the rear tail lights flash rapidly just no action from the front signal.
Ok, to qualify, I am NO electrical guru and those that are will chuckle or maybe chime in but I am willing to try to help.
First- are you positive you didn't put the old bulb back in when you changed them, don't laugh, I have done things like that.
Next, are you familiar with a multi-meter? Able to check continuity? Use the side of the new bulb as ground and probe the contacts on the end of the bulb and check continuity, you should not be open on either contact. Bad bulb. It could happen I guess.
That will eliminate the bulb scenario. I know it is difficult to see the contacts in the socket located where it is but one of them may have corrosion. The parking lamp assembly has been know to leak.
Hope this helps some, shade tree mechanic here for sure.
Jerry
Ok, as usual I should have researched before opening mouth.
I happen to have a front turn signal bulb in the toolbox. To check the filaments in the bulb there are 4 wires on the base of the bulb. With a multimeter set on cont. you should have continuity on the opposite corner wires. In better terms if you check the right wire on the front of one side and the left wire on the other side of the bulb you should have continuity showing that the filament is good not broken. Then check the other two leads. the left wire on the front of one side and the right wire on the other side of the flat bulb base. Make sense?
Jerry
I'd put my money on bad socket. Its not uncommon. You can likely just clean the contacts off with WD40 or something. That's what I would do since they're not hard to access.
I'd put my money on bad socket. Its not uncommon. You can likely just clean the contacts off with WD40 or something. That's what I would do since they're not hard to access.
Well unfortunate update....has no electrical power....no clue.....was turning over yesterday, this am nada zip zero....