Hi,

I started popping a code, along with a check engine light. When I checked, I keep getting P1416 AIR Pump system and Heated O2 sensor fault. I have new O2 sensors, but haven't installed them yet.

Will putting in new O2 sensors take care of this code?

 

I had this code pop up about a month ago and it turned out to be the Air check valve for bank 2. It's not easy to replace, but I was able to cure the problem (at least for now) by spraying carb cleaner into the Air line and forcing it through the checkvalve with compressed air. I then followed that with WD40 and compressed air again. There is a really good write-up on this by Bill Curlee with pictures if you do a search.

 

Yeah, you need to change the passenger side air check valve. In my opinion, you're wasting your time with the WD40 trick. Even if it does work, it will be a very temporary fix. You will understand why once you do change the valve and look inside the old one. You might as well bite the bullet and change it.

Furthermore, it has never been proven that the WD40 spray does not harm your O2 sensors. They are pretty close to where you are spraying. Just something to think about.

 

Circuit Description
An AIR pump is used on this vehicle in order to lower the tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump.
The PCM monitors the HO2S voltages to diagnose the AIR system.
During the AIR test, the PCM activates the AIR pump during closed loop operation. When the AIR is activated, the PCM monitors the HO2S voltages and short term fuel trim values for both banks of the engine. If the AIR system is operating properly, the HO2S voltages should go low and the short term fuel trim should go high.
If the PCM determines that the HO2S voltages for both banks did not respond as expected during the tests, DTC P0410 sets. If only one sensor responded, the PCM sets either a DTC P1415 or P1416 to indicate on which bank the AIR system is inoperative.

Conditions for Running the DTC
DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0117, P0118, P0125, P0171-P0175, P0200, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351-P0358, P0440, P0442, P0443, P0446, P0449, P1120, P1220, P1221, P1258, P1441 and HO2S DTCs are not set.
The engine is running for greater than 2.0 seconds.
The maximum air flow is 22 g/s.
The Air Fuel ratio is 14.7:1
The engine load is less than 40 percent.
The ignition voltage is greater than 11.7 volts.
Engine is not operating in Power Enrichment, Decel Fuel Shut-off, or Catalyst Over-temperature Modes.
The engine speed is greater than 600 RPM.
The ECT is greater than 80°C (176°F) but less than 110°C (230°F).
The IAT is greater than -10°C (-14°F).
The fuel system is operating in fuel trim cells 1, 2, 4, 5, or 6.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The HO2S voltage does not go below 222 mV for 1.2 seconds.
OR
The short term fuel trim does not change more than a predetermined value.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns the MIL OFF after three consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A last test failed (current DTC) clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A History DTC clears after forty consecutive warm-up cycles, if this or any other emission related diagnostic does not report any failures.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL/DTC.

 

Use Seafoam rather than WD40.

Works like a charm. Usually for a year or more.

 

You wouldn't have the link on how to do the procedure, do you?

 

I did the carb cleaner trick 3 years ago when I had that fault. Has not come back since.

 

The Carb cleaner trick does work if you do it right. Follow Bill's process but disconnect the air tubes from the exhaust manifolds and place a rolled up paper towel (large enough to separate the tubes from the manifold), spray a large amount of Carb cleaner cover the tube openings and let it set over night so the cleaner will loosen up the junk. In the morning open up the tubes, spray some more cleaner and blow it out with compressed air, lots of compressed air. I did this about three times until I stopped getting crud on the towels. Spray some WD40 and blow it out as well. All the crud will be captured on the rolled up paper towels and the O2 sensor will not get contaminated. I did this 3 years ago and still no codes. The trick is to let the cleaner set over night.