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hello my 98 corvette A4 coupe with 106,900 miles will shake a little bit at idle and the tach will vary about a hundred RPM up and down at random you can hear and fell a miss from the tailpipe no codes and when I bought the car 2 months ago I put new NGK iridium plugs gapped to about .040,Delphi wires,ACdelco fuel filter,cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner and fresh gas helped it but its still there when I first got it the rpms would vary when crusing at a stable speed now it wont do that but still at idle and when shutting down the car shakes like its trying to diesel for maybe 2 seconds when shut off its like a gradual slowdown.with the AC on both the run on and unstable idle are reduced but not completely gone
Is the check engine light functional? Is it on? Did you pull the codes? Sounds like you should have a p0300. Can you pull and post the codes? That would be a good start.
I see you had the car for 2 months
is the car stock? Are there signs of previous mods?
It's not unusual for a little rock and roll and when you turn these cars off the torque tube makes a little noise/rattle.
I see you had the car for 2 months
is the car stock? Are there signs of previous mods?
It's not unusual for a little rock and roll and when you turn these cars off the torque tube makes a little noise/rattle.
Under heavy load do you have any misfires?
no not under a heavy load anything over idle I don't feel anything abnormal I accelerates fine but now the balancer is walking so I seem to have a bigger problem to worry about at the moment also no codes no p0300 or p030X no codes at all
Is the check engine light functional? Is it on? Did you pull the codes? Sounds like you should have a p0300. Can you pull and post the codes? That would be a good start.
no codes,the light comes on for bulb check when key on engine off
Vacuum leaks or air leak in the ducting between the MAF and Throttle body. Easy to check.
Check the PCV tubing, fittings abd rubber hoses. They can deteriorate and crack. Most of it is behind the intake manifold.
Bill
when I first got the car the grommet was torn completely where pcv valve goes in.i replaced the whole thing with a new gm unit I was reading about a pcm idle relearn do you think that could help?
also ive seen you on some of the balancer threads I got a powerbond balancer do you have any suggestions for the install im gonna try to find a big enough strap wrench to hold the balancer
You could have dirty or damaged injectors. Try running some chevron techron in a couple tanks of fuel.
Use a mechanics stethoscope and listen to each injector fire. They all should sound the same when they fire. If you have one that weak or dirty, it can sound different.
did you do a manifold vacuum test before you bought the car? takes about 30 seconds and will let you know if there is something out of wack with compression since the gauge will flutter
that's the very first test i would do. it takes under a minute and can quickly rule in or rule out the most serious problems
Vacuum leaks or air leak in the ducting between the MAF and Throttle body. Easy to check.
Check the PCV tubing, fittings abd rubber hoses. They can deteriorate and crack. Most of it is behind the intake manifold.
Bill
A vacuum leak in that location (MAF, tb) or the PVC hoses should have set a p0171-174. Often these code will set with zero drive ability or idle concerns. Usually, if the leak is bad enough, the engine will run rough on a cold start. As soon as the o2's start working and the short term fuel trims ramp up, you wouldn't know there's a problem except for the light. We see this all the time.
If he's got a leak at 1 or 2 intake seals at the head, that's a different story.
[QUOTE=Bill Curlee;1587187031]You can try the Idle relearn. It wont hurt.. It does it on its own over time. Try sears for the strap wrench[/QUOTE
i wanted to ask if i still have to drop the cradle down a bit to just move the rack out of the way?and what temp. should i heat the balancer to put it on?
Some cars you can just get the rack out without moving the K member. I can slide mine out.
HEAT,, About 180 to 200 deg Doesnt need to be much. Just heat the HUB
what do you mean by HUB?the center part of the balancer cause ive seen on the theads on here that some people were putting the whole balancer in their oven at 200 DEG
what do you mean by HUB?the center part of the balancer cause ive seen on the theads on here that some people were putting the whole balancer in their oven at 200 DEG
thanks for the help
YES,,, The center part of the dampener. Just use heavy duty heat gun or a propane torch. Once its heated, it will go on a LOT easier.
No need to heat the entire dampener.
I also put some engine oil on the inside and outside. MAKE SURE that you put some on the outside of the hub and some on the cover seal lip!
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