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About 200yds from my house, on a test run, heard a clang while coming to a stop sign, immediately cut the engine. Take a look and the pulley is touching the rack.
Push it home and realize that reusing the crank bolt was a bad idea, and we just air ratcheted it on, didn't use a torque wrench.
So, getting new belts from Orielly's today, bolt, seal & going to go ahead and replace the pulley too (all from dealer), since it's going to be apart. Oh and plenty of red loc tite.
I just did my balancer 1 month ago....please get the a.r.p. bolt...
just a tip for the steering rack, get an 18 mm crowfoot flarenut wrench for the lines. I did mine off the floor and it wasnt that bad. god luck...
If you want to borrow my wrench or the tool to press the balancer on p.m. me.
I'm confused about this "pinning" process, can someone explain it to me & if I need to do it???
Since the pulley is just pressed on the crank it can slip easily (especially if your running a blower). Pinning it means you drill a hole between the crank and pulley and insert a pin to keep this from happening (like a key way used to do before they changed to this silly setup).
I just did my balancer 1 month ago....please get the a.r.p. bolt...
just a tip for the steering rack, get an 18 mm crowfoot flarenut wrench for the lines. I did mine off the floor and it wasnt that bad. god luck...
If you want to borrow my wrench or the tool to press the balancer on p.m. me.
My buddy who is a heavy line mechanic at a Chevy dealer, is bringing home his tools and coming over Sunday to help with the process, so we should have everything we need. He's also the one getting the bolt for me
Since the pulley is just pressed on the crank it can slip easily (especially if your running a blower). Pinning it means you drill a hole between the crank and pulley and insert a pin to keep this from happening (like a key way used to do before they changed to this silly setup).
That's pretty much what I thought, but wasn't too sure. I'm not running a blower, just basic bolt ons & cam. 421hp/429tq
That's pretty much what I thought, but wasn't too sure. I'm not running a blower, just basic bolt ons & cam. 421hp/429tq
I think there is an alternate pinning technique that pins it from the side instead of the front of the pulley. It's just easier to pin it when your replacing the pulley than later if you ever need it.
I just did this to my 02 Z06 which had the same issue. My stock balancer looked good but alot of people said the stock balancers often seperate and the powerbond is a much better unit, so thats what I bought. The ARP bolt is re-usable so I purchased that. Also bought a LS1 front pin kit from ebay which worked flawlessly. Id definitely recommend the pin kit so that your problem does not happen again. If you get a side pin kit you have to run an aftermarket style balancer (ATI) that has a notch in it for a pin, thats why you need a front pin kit. Also need an LS1 balancer install tool so you can get the balancer started onto the crank snout, if you try and use your factory bolt it is likely to damage threads in the crank which you definitely do not want..
Also if you did the cam swap you may know this but you need to make the steering shaft to rack alignment and re-install exactly the same or else you will get TCS and other lights on the dash. I also had to back the subframe bolts out, leave a few threads on the end, to have the clearance to slide the rack out the drivers side.
Last edited by maroon88iroc; Jun 19, 2014 at 01:23 PM.
I just did this to my 02 Z06 which had the same issue. My stock balancer looked good but alot of people said the stock balancers often seperate and the powerbond is a much better unit, so thats what I bought. The ARP bolt is re-usable so I purchased that. Also bought a LS1 front pin kit from ebay which worked flawlessly. Id definitely recommend the pin kit so that your problem does not happen again. If you get a side pin kit you have to run an aftermarket style balancer (ATI) that has a notch in it for a pin, thats why you need a front pin kit. Also need an LS1 balancer install tool so you can get the balancer started onto the crank snout, if you try and use your factory bolt it is likely to damage threads in the crank which you definitely do not want..
Also if you did the cam swap you may know this but you need to make the steering shaft to rack alignment and re-install exactly the same or else you will get TCS and other lights on the dash. I also had to back the subframe bolts out, leave a few threads on the end, to have the clearance to slide the rack out the drivers side.
I'm not opposed to getting the powerbond pulley or ARP bolt, but the pinning is what concerns me. Is it something that must be done? I figured with a new balancer, bolt & plenty of red loc tite I would be good?
About 200yds from my house, on a test run, heard a clang while coming to a stop sign, immediately cut the engine. Take a look and the pulley is touching the rack.
Push it home and realize that reusing the crank bolt was a bad idea, and we just air ratcheted it on, didn't use a torque wrench.
So, getting new belts from Orielly's today, bolt, seal & going to go ahead and replace the pulley too (all from dealer), since it's going to be apart. Oh and plenty of red loc tite.
Any other input or tips?
If you do it the right way you won't need the loc tite.
I'm not opposed to getting the powerbond pulley or ARP bolt, but the pinning is what concerns me. Is it something that must be done? I figured with a new balancer, bolt & plenty of red loc tite I would be good?
ARP does NOT recommend Loctite with their balancer bolt. Their recommended product, both on the threads, as well as between the bolt head and washer, is their own brand of moly lube, and 237 ft/lbs of torque.
No red loctite, use the GM installation procedure in the service manual. If you get an under drive Powerbond, it has a keyway milled allowing the use of the ATI pin kit. Much better design than the end pin kit. Not sure if the stock replacement Powerbond has the keyway.
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