Been through 3 ***** giving everyone the benifit of the doubt. You all are smoken something that I'm not. The **** only changes the frequency of the rattle, it's the sloppy fit in the pivot joints that cause the rattle the **** only changes the resonant frequency. Now which one is worth an additional hundred dollars for a 1 inch less throw? I'm concerned that the original 170 is questionable now. Anyone have a suggestion on stopping the rattle before I go totally nuts. A freind of mine summed it up best, "Let me get this straight, you are going to reduce the movement maybe an inch and increase the effort to shift by a factor of 4 and for all that you will pay over two hundred dollars", a pause, "ARE YOU FRIKKEN NUTS".

 

Jimman, This may not help you, but it's worth a shot. I had a rattle on my Ripper that was driving me nuts. I saw a post where someone took stick-on wheel weights, put them on either side of the shifter shaft (under the boot)..wrapped black electrical tape around the weights, and put the thing back together. No more rattle. So..I tried it...worked like a charm for me.

 

Worth a try, I may be nuts but the stock shift **** looks good to me and after trying the other ones and the poor hand fit it's even looking better.

 

Sorry for your problems Jimman, but are you saying that all us guys who have solved the rattling issues are joking? :rolleyes: Also, I don't know if you speed shift or not but the 2-3 shift % goes from brutal to 100% (at least for me) that initself is worth the price of admission. :cheers:

 

Didn't say you were joking, just that there's more to it than the ****. I know some that it doesn't rattle regardless of the **** and from my, today experiment, tells me that the tollerances are not good in the mechanism.

 

Don't feel bad. I have a buzzing noise with my Kirban when the revs climb. You might try some different fluids in the tranny to ease the effort. After awhile, you won't notice the increases effort. If you have the oak interior, try a Ken King stock **** in oak leather. It looks great and is softer than the hard-feeling black ****. Hope this helps! :seeya :seeya

 

I have the Hurst installed with the stock **** and get a rattle when accerating in 1st or 2nd, but it's quiet other than that. Does yours rattle all the time or only accelerating through the lower gears?

I think I'll try the stick on wheel weights someone suggested -- do you know how much weight they added or did they just adsd as much as would fit under the boot?

Dennis

 

It varies all over the place but mostly in the lower gears, I to will try the wheel weights.

 

Hi Jimman....I have the Hurst installed and it doesn't rattle....do you have the original rubber cup and clip installed on your Hurst.....this rubber cup reduces sounds from the trans and shifter.....I think the main reason we opt for after market shifters is that the stock unit is so sloppy and loose that accurate, repeatable shifts are not possible. In a previous post I detailed the mechanical properties of the Ripper, Hurst and the Kirban. The shifting effort is a function of the shifters upper/lower arm ratio, The Hurst has a 2.40:1 ratio, the stock GM a little less than 4.50:1...this means the Hurst shifting effort is about 1.87 times more. How tight is your boot around the shifter? Some sound escapes there....I made a custom shifter baseplate and boot. The boot fits tightly around the shifter arm and completely deadens any sound. I'll take a pic and post it. :cheers:

 

Hey, I installed the Hurst shifter and it works great. Go back and check your installation.

 

Mine rattles too!! Please post if the weights fix the problem.

Thanks :confused:

 

Hi, Jim. I've posted many times about quieting a Ripper using the wheel weights and then some heater hose over the weights, topped off with electrical tape or hose clamps to hold it all nice and tight. Really, try it on the Hurst and see what happens. I think all the aftermarket shifters rattle because they don't have the same dampening structure on the shaft as does the stock shaft. If you find yourself in L.A., I'll be happy to lift the boot and show you my handiwork.

 

I too am fighting the dreaded rattle and buzzing. I have even stripped the car down to a bare shifter and taken it for a test drive and no RATTLES/BUZZES. Add a **** and all the noise is back. I even tried an $80 momo. All that did was change the tone of the noise. I asked Mr Gasket and they replied that the "only" **** they could recommend was the Phantom made by Autotechnica. They will be offering their own ***** in a few months but for now that is the only **** they recommend.

I'm in the prrcess of modding my OEM shifter and will re-install that until Hurst offer's their own ****'s, then I MIGHT re-install the Hurst.

Tom
USAF Retired

 

Anyone here remember post from a guy that had some noise with his Ripper, and when he pulled up slightly it stopped. So he got another gasket or some sheet rubber and made a thicker gasket thereby raising the whole assembly up a few mm, and that took care of it? Or was I dreaming this :crazy:

:cheers:

 

it seems that there is really a big variance in the hurst shifter noise. my guess is it has to have something to do with the install OR hurst has some real loose tolerances in the manufacturing process. mine rattled and buzzed in the first 4 gears-i waited and read for 3 weeks to see if there was a concensus on the problem or if it would just go away as some have indicated. well it didn't and so many had solved the problem with an aftermarket ****, so i ordered a momo combat and bingo- silence is golden! i still feel a very small vibration but no noise and the **** adds just enough extra leverage to make it perfect now as far as feel goes.i removed the stops totally. i reused the original rubber gasket as mine stayed put when the oem shifter was removed. i inverted the rubber boot and remove the donut from the oem shifter without cutting(a bit of a struggle, but can be done), put on new shifter and used a zip tie to tighted the boot around the donut. installed oem boot and now with momo shift ****- everything is PERFECT. i'm also using the lightest spring setup because my wife drives also. she says the new **** really helps reverse and 1st a bunch! just my .02-hope this helps somebody solve there problem. hurst should sell with their own **** or advise upfront that a aftermarket **** is necessary to avoid noise issues! :)

 

Added 5 oz of wheel weights, 5 quarter oz weights in a strip. 4 strips and a bunch of tape and noise is reduced 80 to 90% unless a red line 1st gear run. As far as install is concerned one can't screw that up much. I think the ofter market stuff is really not up to OEM standards as far as linkage tolerances are concerned. I think they rely on the moders ego to leave them alone. Never the less, to be perfectly honest, I'd leave well enough alone from now on. I got a 12.9 at the strip with the stock shifter and I don't think this will improve that at all. Just another Corvette owner ego separating me from some more money.......

 

I put a hurst in yesterday with a momo ****. When I went to drive it, I heard a rattle, turned out to be change in the cupholder and ashtray making the noise. I was relieved.

I am very happy with the shifer, shifts are much better and more precise. I wouldn't imagine going back to stock.

I believe you are probably right about production tolerances causing the rattle, but here are a few more suggestions to try. Tighten up the spring tension. Tighten the shifter stops very tightly (or remove them). The **** I got (momo air race) came with a bunch of rubber sleeves to make the **** fit the shifter. I used thickest one that would fit the **** and cranked down the set screws very tightly.

 

No rattles here, either. I have the stock **** and nothing special beyond following the installation instructions from Hurst.

 

I really think it's tolerances in the pivot assembly, some rattle some don't. I used a torgue wrench on the 4 mounting screws can't see where that could go wrong. I tried 3 momo ***** and none did anything other than change the frequency of the rattle. Even the weights I put on don't completely eliminate the rattle. I emailed Hurst and their resonse was that it is normal in that they don't have any buffers in the shifter as compared to the stock unit. I emailed back questioning that and I got NO response from them. I really think that it's the construction and design and since we have Corvette egos they get away with it.

 

Have you checked to see if the plastic cup is worn or broke ?

I love my Hurst ... no rattles here ... 100% better then that VW bus shifter GM installed. I wouldn't imagine going back to stock. :smash:


[Modified by RHILL, 11:00 AM 7/25/2002]