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Help! Loud clacking sound in engine

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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 07:59 PM
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Default Help! Loud clacking sound in engine

I just finished installing a double DIN DVD player yesterday and when I reconnected the battery and started up the car, I'm getting a loud clanking sound when the car is idling. I've read about piston slap, but this seems a lot worse. Could my oil pump be toast? My oil pressure sensor has been broke for a while. Is there another way to diagnose without breaking into the motor?

Thanks,

Sam
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 09:46 PM
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For starters, check the oil level. Then you could fix the oil pressure gauge. If the oil pressure is good, remove the drive belts and see if it's still noisy.
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 04:43 PM
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I think I have figured it out. I found this description on the web and it sounds exactly like what happened:

Lastly, your oil pump may begin to make noise if it isn't working properly. This is a less common problem than some of the others presented here. If your oil pump begins to make noise it will be a loud whining or whirring sound. This is a result of the internal gear mechanism wearing down. As it begins to fail, your oil pump could make a bit of noise.


Right after I finished the DVD install, I took the car for a drive around the block. I noticed a squealing sound that I thought was just one of the pulleys, but now I'm thinking that was the oil pump going out.

I'm not sure I am set up to replace an oil pump, so I will probably have to tow it to a shop. Has anyone had one replaced recently? I'm assuming it will set me back $500 - $1000. :-(

Sam
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 05:10 PM
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get a mechanical gauge and check it. also pull your valve covers make sure the rockers or something obviously isn't jacked. If you diy it's will be less then 200. It's time consuming but not hard. I have pulled my rack off 3 times so to me it's simple...http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 09:50 PM
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What happens if a shop does what you ask and replaces your oil pump? You pay them about $1000-1300.00 (9.8 hours in alldata plus parts and tax) and your car is NOT fixed?
Your asking for advice and the totally ignoring it. It's sounds like you have limited experience but you just decided it needs an oil pump.
Have a reputable shop familiar with corvettes diagnose and repair the problem. Don't forget to ask about their warranty on repairs.
That's it, I'm done
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by martysauto
What happens if a shop does what you ask and replaces your oil pump? You pay them about $1000-1300.00 (9.8 hours in alldata plus parts and tax) and your car is NOT fixed?
Your asking for advice and the totally ignoring it. It's sounds like you have limited experience but you just decided it needs an oil pump.
Have a reputable shop familiar with corvettes diagnose and repair the problem. Don't forget to ask about their warranty on repairs.
That's it, I'm done
I have a good corvette shop that I have used in the past. If I can't handle it, I can always take it to them.

Sam
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by scooby99
I have a good corvette shop that I have used in the past. If I can't handle it, I can always take it to them.

Sam
Take it to them. Let them diagnosis the problem. It is very unlikely your oil pump gas failed.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
get a mechanical gauge and check it. also pull your valve covers make sure the rockers or something obviously isn't jacked. If you diy it's will be less then 200. It's time consuming but not hard. I have pulled my rack off 3 times so to me it's simple...http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Thanks for the link,a lot of good info.I'd check the rockers first.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by old stingray
Thanks for the link,a lot of good info.I'd check the rockers first.

I'm going to pull the valve covers tonight and see if if there's any visible problems.

Sam
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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You are NOT logically solving this issue.

Last night I PMed you:

" Bud,,,, without knowing if you have oil pressure,, and you have an internal noise ,, ,,, your playing with FIRE!!

Get that oil pressure sensor fixed and see where it leads you.

If you can send me a vid of the noise, it would help.

ANY DTCs??
Bill

You PMed back:

" No CEL or codes. I did notice a squealing sound, like a pulley bearing going out before it started making the clacking sound. It has to be the oil pump. I would make a recording, but I'm afraid I may hurt the engine.
SAM

"

My return PM=

" Remove the belts, pull the plugs and spin the engine over by hand and see if you see/hear or feel any thing mechanically wrong. Check the oil and cut open the oil filter and see if there are parts in the filter..

Pull the valve covers and look for broken rockers or broken valve springs

Bill
"
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We all seriously DOUBT that the oil pump is the issue. there are NO gears in the pump. The type of pump that a C5 has is a Gerotor

Reff Wikipeda: ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerotor ) The Gerotor is a positive displacement pump. The name gerotor is derived from "Generated Rotor". A gerotor unit consists of an inner and outer rotor. The inner rotor has N teeth, and the outer rotor has N+1 teeth. The inner rotor is located off-center and both rotors rotate. The geometry of the two rotors partitions the volume between them into N different dynamically-changing volumes. During the assembly's rotation cycle, each of these volumes changes continuously, so any given volume first increases, and then decreases. An increase creates a vacuum. This vacuum creates suction, and hence, this part of the cycle is where the intake is located. As a volume decreases compression occurs. During this compression period, fluids can be pumped, or compressed (if they are gaseous fluids).

Gerotor pumps are generally designed using a trochoidal inner rotor and an outer rotor formed by a circle with intersecting circular arcs.[1]

A gerotor can also function as a pistonless rotary engine. High pressure gas enters the intake area and pushes against the inner and outer rotors, causing both to rotate as the area between the inner and outer rotor increases. During the compression period, the exhaust is pumped out.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerotor
Go to the link and see a vid of how the pump operates.


In all honesty, it very well could be a belt pulley or tensioner pulley. removing the belt is a 15 min operation.

Like Marty and I recommended , FIX the oilo pressure SENSOR or install a mechanical gage. Remove the drive belts.

If you didnt have oil pressure, all the LIFTERS would be making all sorts of lifter clacking noises and the engine would run poorly.

Stealership is going to milk you dry and you may end up with a new engine when or MAJOR repairs you really didnt need any.

Bill
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You are NOT logically solving this issue.

Last night I PMed you:

" Bud,,,, without knowing if you have oil pressure,, and you have an internal noise ,, ,,, your playing with FIRE!!

Get that oil pressure sensor fixed and see where it leads you.

If you can send me a vid of the noise, it would help.

ANY DTCs??
Bill

You PMed back:

" No CEL or codes. I did notice a squealing sound, like a pulley bearing going out before it started making the clacking sound. It has to be the oil pump. I would make a recording, but I'm afraid I may hurt the engine.
SAM

"

My return PM=

" Remove the belts, pull the plugs and spin the engine over by hand and see if you see/hear or feel any thing mechanically wrong. Check the oil and cut open the oil filter and see if there are parts in the filter..

Pull the valve covers and look for broken rockers or broken valve springs

Bill
"
__________________
Harder, Better, Faster, Stronger




We all seriously DOUBT that the oil pump is the issue. there are NO gears in the pump. The type of pump that a C5 has is a Gerotor

Reff Wikipeda: ( Gerotor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) The Gerotor is a positive displacement pump. The name gerotor is derived from "Generated Rotor". A gerotor unit consists of an inner and outer rotor. The inner rotor has N teeth, and the outer rotor has N+1 teeth. The inner rotor is located off-center and both rotors rotate. The geometry of the two rotors partitions the volume between them into N different dynamically-changing volumes. During the assembly's rotation cycle, each of these volumes changes continuously, so any given volume first increases, and then decreases. An increase creates a vacuum. This vacuum creates suction, and hence, this part of the cycle is where the intake is located. As a volume decreases compression occurs. During this compression period, fluids can be pumped, or compressed (if they are gaseous fluids).

Gerotor pumps are generally designed using a trochoidal inner rotor and an outer rotor formed by a circle with intersecting circular arcs.[1]

A gerotor can also function as a pistonless rotary engine. High pressure gas enters the intake area and pushes against the inner and outer rotors, causing both to rotate as the area between the inner and outer rotor increases. During the compression period, the exhaust is pumped out.

Gerotor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Go to the link and see a vid of how the pump operates.


In all honesty, it very well could be a belt pulley or tensioner pulley. removing the belt is a 15 min operation.

Like Marty and I recommended , FIX the oilo pressure SENSOR or install a mechanical gage. Remove the drive belts.

If you didnt have oil pressure, all the LIFTERS would be making all sorts of lifter clacking noises and the engine would run poorly.

Stealership is going to milk you dry and you may end up with a new engine when or MAJOR repairs you really didnt need any.

Bill



Hey Bill,

It's not a pulley. I've replaced those before. It sounds internal. Very loud clacking sound. I am going to take off the valve covers this evening and take a look. Could something be blocking the oil from reaching the rockers?

Sam
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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I highly doubt it's your oil pump but I would do what Bill said take the belt off. That literally takes 10 sec. 15mm on the tensioner loosen it up slip belt off. Take valve covers off and turn motor with 22mm socket. I think it's 22. You will tell right away if it's internal or not. Do the simple stuff first man. Get a mechanical gauge on it also you will know if you have pressure or not.. Listen to what we are telling you Sam.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 06:10 PM
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Here is a diagram of the oil flow through your engine:

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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 08:22 PM
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Good news, I think. I took off the belt to isolate the engine and fired it up and there was no clanking! :-) I spun the power steering and water pumps as well as the other pulleys and could not determine what was causing it. I guess I will put the belt back on and use the hose stethoscope technique to figure out what is making the sound. I'm also ordering a new oil pressure sensor.

Thanks for all of the good advice.

Sam
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 08:50 PM
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Take a good look at the balancer. They are problematic. Take both belts off and try to move it by hand or even a small pry bar.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 11:16 AM
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Yep check the Harmonic balancer. their a Known debacle.
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