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Have you guys seen many issues with the aftermarket 160* stats? I swapped my old one over from the old engine when I swapped motors, and now I am seeing really high temps that I NEVER saw before. I have sprayed out the radiator and checked to see that both fans were running, and everything else seems ok
Was thinking of swapping out the stat to see if that was an issue. Of course with the blower that's no easy task..
Have you guys seen many issues with the aftermarket 160* stats? I swapped my old one over from the old engine when I swapped motors, and now I am seeing really high temps that I NEVER saw before. I have sprayed out the radiator and checked to see that both fans were running, and everything else seems ok
Was thinking of swapping out the stat to see if that was an issue. Of course with the blower that's no easy task..
Did you make sure to follow the burping procedure to release any captured air in the system? Air in the system can result in high temps. Did you test the thermostat before putting it into the new engine to make sure it would open properly?
You don't have to burp the system. The factory doesn't have to and neither do you since the fill tank is the highest piece in the system. Just FOLLOW the factory fill procedure!
With the overheating issue just suddenly appearing (not having it before) I had thought the same thing, because I had heard about this "burping" requirement. When I added the water/antifreeze, I just poured it (while running) until it wouldn't take anymore, and was at the "full cold" level.
I have swapped heads on three vettes and always done it the same, so I guess I did it wrong every time
I wonder if I should try cycling it as the manual says, but without adding water......
You don't have to burp the system. The factory doesn't have to and neither do you since the fill tank is the highest piece in the system. Just FOLLOW the factory fill procedure!
Yeah, all the people over the years who have had air in the system from not burping were just cuckoo. The procedure, and the cost of the ooling system research & development, not to mention making a point to include the procedure in the manual, was just done so owners could have some extra bathroom reading material.
There have been too many instances of people having air trapped in the cooling system for it not to be something to pay attention to. Just because you have never had a problem does not mean that it does not exist.
best thing to do is crack the crossover pipe on the heads. You will get every single air bubble out. It's a 10mm between the passenger side and tb area. Crack it until coolant comes out.
Yeah, all the people over the years who have had air in the system from not burping were just cuckoo. The procedure, and the cost of the ooling system research & development, not to mention making a point to include the procedure in the manual, was just done so owners could have some extra bathroom reading material.
There have been too many instances of people having air trapped in the cooling system for it not to be something to pay attention to. Just because you have never had a problem does not mean that it does not exist.
Yeah, all the people over the years who have had air in the system from not burping were just cuckoo. The procedure, and the cost of the ooling system research & development, not to mention making a point to include the procedure in the manual, was just done so owners could have some extra bathroom reading material.
There have been too many instances of people having air trapped in the cooling system for it not to be something to pay attention to. Just because you have never had a problem does not mean that it does not exist.
Lots of urban legends start like this. I've never had to do it on any of my Vettes. The only one's I've had to do are other GM's with bleeding screws on the thermostat housing from the factory. AGAIN, as long as the highest point in the system is the fill tank you only have to do the factory fill procedure, simple physics.
yea, I had that issue recently, took numerous idle/cool down cycles, to get all the air out, probably 2hrs of that. you should see the air bubbles at the bottom of the reservoir. it'll stop when all the air is out
Urban legends don't start with the experience and the advice of a team of automotive engineers.
I'll take the advice of those who actually built the car over some random owner who thinks he knows more than those who spent years in college and more years building automotive industry experience before becoming part of the C5 team. Do you have an automotive engineering degree? Did you work on the design team? No? Hmm.
You are one person. MANY owners have run into this problem over the MANY years the C5 has been out, and MANY owners have had their problem solved by the simple burping procedure. The odds of everyone since 1997 being wrong and you being the sole person who is right aren't even worth putting down here. I've got news for you; the C5 isn't a straight tube. The cooling system has high and low points all throughout; points where air can and does get trapped, otherwise cracking open the pipe heading into the engine would not release air. The tank being the high point means little in this, as is evident by the simple fact that the GM engineers saw fit to include a special procedure for the sole purpose of bleeding air out of the system.
You do what you want to with your car. The rest of us will do what we're supposed to.
Last edited by Corvette_Ed; Jul 1, 2014 at 02:17 PM.
best thing to do is crack the crossover pipe on the heads. You will get every single air bubble out. It's a 10mm between the passenger side and tb area. Crack it until coolant comes out.
So what if I just pulled the hose off? (that goes from the radiator to the metal crossover pipe AT the crossover pipe) That should vent both sides perfectly and I wont risk damaging the small gaskets underneath?
Thank that will get it out?
So what if I just pulled the hose off? (that goes from the radiator to the metal crossover pipe AT the crossover pipe) That should vent both sides perfectly and I wont risk damaging the small gaskets underneath?
Thank that will get it out?
According to 8vette7 yes you can..." removing the rubber hose (if the clamp is accessible) and holding the rubber tube as high as possible until coolant flows out the metal attachment point will also bleed the trapped air."
Myself I just cracked the nut and I haven't had a isues since. Anytime I have had teh radiator out(like 5 or 6 times) I do the fill procedure then burp it like that and my coolant temps cruisng stay in the 180/190 range even with the big *** fmic in 100 degree weather..I also do a 80/20 in summer mix(80 percent water/20 dexacool)
According to 8vette7 yes you can..." removing the rubber hose (if the clamp is accessible) and holding the rubber tube as high as possible until coolant flows out the metal attachment point will also bleed the trapped air."
Myself I just cracked the nut and I haven't had a isues since. Anytime I have had teh radiator out(like 5 or 6 times) I do the fill procedure then burp it like that and my coolant temps cruisng stay in the 180/190 range even with the big *** fmic in 100 degree weather..I also do a 80/20 in summer mix(80 percent water/20 dexacool)
The two on the driver's side pipe going into the head. The second of the two nuts shouldn't need to be cracked very far at all.
OK; I was confused because I thought there was ONE small 10mm bolt (one for each fitting on each side on the front) going into the head, holding down the crossover "fitting". (I'm running the FAST so I don't have the entire "H-Pipe" running to the back ones. The backs are plugged off)
The photo of the pices/bolts I am referring to is in the link from Chicago1
you want the ones for the front. From that link above. Do you see it?
Yes; that's why it confused me when they said "crack the nut" The line (I have the ones for the 2001 and newer) is actually attached by a 10mm bolt, one on each side, that goes through the fitting in the photo in your link. I suggested pulling the rubber line off instead of removing the bolts, because the small gaskets have rubber O-rings that are easily damaged. If I can just loosen the two bolts (one on each side) it shouldn't hurt anything.
Going to try this when I get home today (Have to install new injectors) and I HOPE I get some air