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M6 Transmission Issues...Help

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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 12:29 PM
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Default M6 Transmission Issues...Help

The car:

2004 Corvette Coupe
M6 Transmission
41xxx miles
Bone Stock

The problem:

On cold start, the car will not go into any gear. No amount of force will move it into gear. After about a minute or two, first gear is attainable but VERY difficult to get into. Gears 2-6 shift extremely rough and require a ton of force to shift into. Reverse will not go with any amount of force.

This morning, I tried taking it around the block and I noticed that after five or so minutes, it got a little smoother in the forward gears but was still rough and reverse was still unavailable. I finally managed to engage reverse by using all of my full body weight to get it to go into gear so I could back it out of the road and into my driveway.

I've heard this could be a linkage or lubrication issue. Any ideas on what could be the cause? The car does have an extended warranty, but I'd rather not drop it off AGAIN as it has already been returned to the shop for the TPMS sensors to be replaced, the driver's side washer fluid nozzle and line to be replaced, and the MAF sensor to be replaced...all in the first four weeks I have owned it.

The car seems to be in great condition inside and out, so I am surprised by the issues...though the TPMS is understandable due to the fact that it's a 10 year old car and they were probably the original sensors. I just hate handing my keys over to someone and leaving the car with them when I would much rather be enjoying it myself. So if it could be a simple fix, I'd rather give it a shot first myself on this extended weekend.

Thanks guys/gals, and happy fourth!

Last edited by The_Gray_Ghost; Jul 4, 2014 at 12:31 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 01:10 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by The_Gray_Ghost
The car:

2004 Corvette Coupe
M6 Transmission
41xxx miles
Bone Stock

The problem:

On cold start, the car will not go into any gear. No amount of force will move it into gear. After about a minute or two, first gear is attainable but VERY difficult to get into. Gears 2-6 shift extremely rough and require a ton of force to shift into. Reverse will not go with any amount of force.

This morning, I tried taking it around the block and I noticed that after five or so minutes, it got a little smoother in the forward gears but was still rough and reverse was still unavailable. I finally managed to engage reverse by using all of my full body weight to get it to go into gear so I could back it out of the road and into my driveway.

I've heard this could be a linkage or lubrication issue. Any ideas on what could be the cause? The car does have an extended warranty, but I'd rather not drop it off AGAIN as it has already been returned to the shop for the TPMS sensors to be replaced, the driver's side washer fluid nozzle and line to be replaced, and the MAF sensor to be replaced...all in the first four weeks I have owned it.

The car seems to be in great condition inside and out, so I am surprised by the issues...though the TPMS is understandable due to the fact that it's a 10 year old car and they were probably the original sensors. I just hate handing my keys over to someone and leaving the car with them when I would much rather be enjoying it myself. So if it could be a simple fix, I'd rather give it a shot first myself on this extended weekend.

Thanks guys/gals, and happy fourth!
Well I think I have managed to figure this one out on my own guys/gals. Feel pretty stupid too.

I came to the Corvette from a 2003 Mustang Cobra. One big difference between the two: the Corvette has a hydraulic clutch. I've never owned a car with one before, and when I checked the hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir, it was BONE DRY. So...adding in some DOT-3 brake fluid and seeing what happens. Something tells me that was the issue.

Thanks anyway and if it persists, I will let you guys/gals know.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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From: Houston Texas
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
There is also an alignment process for the shifter that can cause shifting issues. Here is a decent video on performing that alignment:


Corvette shifter adjustment video by froggy - YouTube
Thank you sir.

I will have to do this as well for good measure.

Transmission is shifting like butter now.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 08:53 AM
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If you had to add fluid you have a leak, it is a closed system. Either the slave or the master is leaking. If a tear down is imminent plan for a clutch replacement as well while you are there and add a remote bleeder. All the best to you.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by FLrealty
If you had to add fluid you have a leak, it is a closed system. Either the slave or the master is leaking. If a tear down is imminent plan for a clutch replacement as well while you are there and add a remote bleeder. All the best to you.
I'm hoping I'm not going to have to replace the clutch already.

Now that I have the fresh fluid in there, I have a LOT of clutch pedal travel. It was engaging near the floor, but now it's not catching until the pedal is almost fully released. This makes driving the car a chore for me, as I have really long legs and every time I shift I have my leg high enough for the steering wheel to rub my jeans.

I've heard the horror stories of replacing a C5 clutch, so if I have to go that route I guess I'm just going to save up some and pay a Corvette shop to take care of it. That's a depressing thought.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 11:30 AM
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DOT 3 is fine but DOT 4 is better.

There should be some good places around your area to do the clutch work if you need it and it wounds like you do.

If they pull the clutch I suggest you have the torque tube couplers replaced or at a minimum inspected. Putting in new bearings should be considered also. Don't forget the input bushing at the motor also. With that low mileage everything may be good but once you are into that level of work I would do as much as I could as preventive maintenance.

If you talk with a shop about doing the work you can post what they will plan on doing or inspecting and we can comment.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
DOT 3 is fine but DOT 4 is better.

There should be some good places around your area to do the clutch work if you need it and it wounds like you do.

If they pull the clutch I suggest you have the torque tube couplers replaced or at a minimum inspected. Putting in new bearings should be considered also. Don't forget the input bushing at the motor also. With that low mileage everything may be good but once you are into that level of work I would do as much as I could as preventive maintenance.

If you talk with a shop about doing the work you can post what they will plan on doing or inspecting and we can comment.
My understanding is that while DOT 4 is rated for higher temps and therefore generally better suited to track driving, DOT 3 is less susceptible to water absorption and therefore better suited for street driving (unless you flush your brake fluid very regularly). That aside, there is also a potential compatibility issue with components in a system designed for DOT 3 and the chemical composition of some DOT 4 fluids.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...rs/brake-fluid
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 12:47 PM
  #8  
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From: Houston Texas
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
DOT 3 is fine but DOT 4 is better.

There should be some good places around your area to do the clutch work if you need it and it wounds like you do.

If they pull the clutch I suggest you have the torque tube couplers replaced or at a minimum inspected. Putting in new bearings should be considered also. Don't forget the input bushing at the motor also. With that low mileage everything may be good but once you are into that level of work I would do as much as I could as preventive maintenance.

If you talk with a shop about doing the work you can post what they will plan on doing or inspecting and we can comment.
Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely post up whatever is recommended here before going through with anything.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
You may just have air in the system from operating the clutch when the fluid was very low. I would start with bleeding the hydraulic system first before getting carried away with replacing the clutch........ JMHO.
Good point.

I'm always up for a simple, cheap fix.

I'll give that a shot...probably won't be until this weekend...and let you guys know how it goes.


Thanks for the advice!
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 4XLR8N
My understanding is that while DOT 4 is rated for higher temps and therefore generally better suited to track driving, DOT 3 is less susceptible to water absorption and therefore better suited for street driving (unless you flush your brake fluid very regularly). That aside, there is also a potential compatibility issue with components in a system designed for DOT 3 and the chemical composition of some DOT 4 fluids.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...rs/brake-fluid
Interesting.

TBH, I just went with what was recommended on the filler cap.
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