So, your orange +12V wire has no connections between the Instrument Panel Electrical Center (fuse box) and the RCDLR. There is however a junction inside the IPEC for Fuse 27 which splits between connector C1 pin F9 (HVAC) and connector C3 pin B7 (RCDLR)

 

Thanks Cliff, what do you recommend I check?
Sorry all pretty technical stuff :-) trying to work it all out.
Thanks

 

Hey mate, looks like you are making progress. I can help you figure out why no power a little later since it could be several things.


How did you verify the fuse/fuse connection pin had power on one side going into it? What exactly did you do in checking the other side? From where to where?



For the moment if you want to power the RFA there are 2 easy ways to do it.

First of all there are some accessory power feeds in the passenger fuse box area you can use:

In the passenger foot well there should be 3 auxiliary power wires.

Orange wire taped off. Always powered from Fuse #7 (20 Amp). This Fuse/wire is shared with the cigarette lighter.

Orange wire to a connector. Always powered from Fuse #1 (20 Amp). Wire not shared with anything.

Yellow wire taped off. Powered from ignition switch when "On". Powered from Fuse #11 (20 Amp). Not shared with anything.

Here is a link with more info and pictures:

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=14632


Since you want it powered all the time, you want to draw power from via fuse 7 or 1.

I would suggest fuse 1.

Now you have a good source for power. You could tie into the wire lead or an easier way might to be to install a fuse adapter into the fuse 1 location and get an easy feed. Info below on what I mean by that.

PS: Forget trying to power from the rear latch or light circuits . Those circuits are NOT powered all the time.



Here in the US they can be found in most auto stores, Should be the same in Australia.

 

Hi Dadaroo,

Ok so what I did is test fuse 27 by pulling it out, connecting it into a small circuit with the use of a small battery and the test light probe. It lit up so the fuse works.

While the fuse was out I test light probed the contacts (the 2 holes where the fuse plugs into, and the test light lit up so no problem there.

So it appears there is a break or damage of some sort, to the orange wire, somewhere between the fuse box and the RFA module.

I know the wire runs from the fuse box, behind the dash board, down the passenger side of the car, across the boot (behind the seats), and into the module. Then again, here in oz the steering wheel is on the right hand side, so the fuse box has been moved during conversion which doesnt help!

I guess trying to locate where exactly is damaged by pulling out all the dash and carpet etc would be one hell of a job, unless there is a common spot where there could be a break in the orange wire that is the most likely cause?

The fuse double adaptor idea sounds awesome I think this would be the best way to fix it thanks for that idea. Im going to get hold of the parts this weekend and hook it all up!

Let us know if any ideas re: possible location of wire damage etc. Thanks again mate, appreciate all the help cheers.

 

I've never pulled the IPEC out, nor could I locate how in the service manual.. I would suggest locating the proper pin and checking if there's corrosion, water intrusion and check for power to see if the problem is contained in the IPEC or in the wire going to the RCDLR.

 

For the moment I would use one of the alternative power sources/methods and snake the wire to the RFA. Should be able to do it via the passenger side and around/under the rear carpet to the RFA. I will try to look at my fuse box in the near future and locate where the wire comes out of it so you could make the tie in there,

I am still not sure if the problem is INTERNAL to the fuse box or external

Here is what the inside looks like:

 

Hi Dadaroo,
Yes I think your suggestion of snaking a new wire around to the RFA module is within my limited technical ability. Theres definately power coming from fuse 27 when I probed the positive and ground contacts that the fuse clicks into on the fuse board so not sure what you mean.

I think puling the fuse box out and messing with it is probably a little beyond my experience :-)

I've located the fuse double adaptor part you mentioned yesterday at a local electronics store here in Australia so will go and pick that up on thursday and do the job over the weekend and let you know how it goes. That should get it going. Cant wait until it all works and no error codes pop up on the DIC.

Now, you mentioned plugging the fuse double adaptor into fuse 1. Do you think as the RFA module is supposed to be running on fuse 27 we should run it from there?

Fuse 27 is a 15amp fuse, so would you recommend using the double adaptor on fuse 27 and then plugging in 2 x 15 amp fuses into the 2 holes on the adaptor? Ill probably need to pick up a few spares fuses aswell on thursday. Thanks mate talk soon cheers.

 

If you're sure you have 12v on the fuse, before I ran a wire, I'd probe the orange wire a few inches down from the rfa. Maybe the connector is bad at the rfa and you'd only have to bypass it. See how far down the orange wire you have to go till you hit power, or go the other way from the fuse box.

 

Good Idea!!
Ill try that first thanks 65

 

We'll Skype sometime and I will provide a more full explanation to you. If the connection at the RFA is not the issue then:

Leave fuse #27 in place since as you can see from post 22 it also provides power to the HVAC unit. For some reason the additional feed to the RFA is bad either in the fuse box or external.

Use Fuse #1 for power because I don't know where the problem is and I prefer to not fiddle with that location any more than we absolutely need to.

 

Hey guys,

Great news! Problem is now fixed, thank you for all those who helped!

So I went to the local store to get the fuse double adaptor, a few spare fuses and bits and pieces to lay a new wire from the fuse box to the RFA module in the trunk.

Pulled off the side trim near the fuse box and folded the carpet back to expose the existing wiring running down the side of the car, as I was looking to lay the new wire with the existing wire and electrical tape it all together nice and neat.

In the process, what do you know, I see a bit of corrosion on an orange wire (same colour orange wire that powers the RFA module). See the attached picture, Ive got my thumb right next to it, you can see its corroded right through and completely eaten away the entire wire inside the plastic insulation. So I replaced the corroded bit of wire, and low and behold it all works!! :-)



I thought Id take a photo to show anyone else out there who has a similar issue as mine.
I believe whats happened is, the convertible top (like most convertible tops) tend to leak in the 2 front corners, where the top meets the windshield and the side windows, right there in that corner.

Whats happened is, water has come through and dripped down on the carpet and corroded the wire beneath. Of all wires, its corroded the orange power wire which powers the RFA module in the trunk.

As no power was getting into the module, my key fob stopped working. When I tried to go to the learn key fob procedure on the display, it would not allow me to proceed past the key fob learning page (where it asks you to press and hold lock and unlock).

There you have it, if its not a ground issue, blown fuse number 27, or faulty RFA module, CHECK THE WIRE RUNNING DOWN THE SIDE OF THE CAR (when sitting in the car, the left side) which is the Australian passenger side, or the American drivers side.

Cheers guys!

 

Amazing you found it that way. What good luck.

Post a couple of pictures of the interior and dash. I am sure very few have ever seen what they look like "down under".

 

Hey mate,

Heres what they look like down under. Mirror conversion.

 

I was surprised when I first found out they made a right hand drive C5. I would not think the expense with be worth it and maybe it wasn't. I wonder how many of these have been made for each year.

When you get a chance would you post a couple of engine compartment pictures also. I am curious about how things are done there also.

 

Hi mate,

I dont think Chevrolet in the USA make them in right hand drive as far as Im aware.

These would be imported to Australia as left hand drive, and then converted by a few specialist conversion companies. The conversion price is definately hefty, that why corvettes are so expensive in Australia compared to USA.

The vet I bought however was already converted several years ago so time has eroded some of that price away :-)