'02 Z06: Frustrating Intermittent Starting Problems
#1
'02 Z06: Frustrating Intermittent Starting Problems
Hey guys, long-time lurker very rare poster here. Sorry in advance for writing a book, I appreciate those of you who make it all the way to the end!
I've been having problems with my '02 Z06 starting for quite some time and the local dealership and the guys at LG Motorsports aren't able to re-create it.
Naturally, because they can't re-create it they're having a hard time diagnosing/fixing the issue. I'm hoping someone can help me come up with some ideas or find a way to recreate the issue every time.
The issue is, sometimes the car won't start. When I turn the key, everything comes on in the cabin, but there's no response at all. There's no response at all that I can detect from the engine bay (no clicking of relays, no turning of starter).
Assuming a hill or a friendly stranger is nearby, I can always push start the car. A couple times, there haven't been friendly strangers or hills, or heinous speed bumps that wouldn't allow me to push start it.
When it won't start, I'm not getting any kind of DIC messages, odd behavior from the gauges, or flashing lights on the dash.
I've towed the car to the dealership a couple times. Typically what's happened then is once we get it off the tow truck, it starts up just fine doing nothing differently than the time before. I've learned now that I just wait and keep trying every 10-15 minutes until it starts up, usually within 2-3 hours, it has started back up.
I changed my battery back in April due to this problem (and others, my old battery was on the way out). On an unrelated (I hope) note, I also had the left side and right side daytime running lights replaced here recently.
Since taking it to the dealership and LG, we've done the following in the hopes that it'd fix the issue (even though they couldn't recreate it):
1. Replaced the ignition switch.
2. Deleted the VATS from the ECU/PCM
I'm currently stranded at my office waiting for it to start back up. I took a video with phone in the parking garage (see below) and I pulled the codes from the DIC and Googled them, I think that they seem to line up with replacing my battery and having to replace the DRLs. None of the other codes seem to line up with starting problems:
40-BCM -Body Control Module
A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module
A6-SCM - Seat Control Module
B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation
If anyone has any suggestions on things that I can try, or ask a mechanic to try on my behalf, I'd appreciate it. Mostly, I'd like to figure out how I can recreate it so they can see what's going on, I know that's going to be the best way to get the problem fixed.
In the meantime, I'm scrounging around the office looking for some cleaning product to clean the pellet on my key, on the off chance it's just dirty.
Thanks for your help!
I've been having problems with my '02 Z06 starting for quite some time and the local dealership and the guys at LG Motorsports aren't able to re-create it.
Naturally, because they can't re-create it they're having a hard time diagnosing/fixing the issue. I'm hoping someone can help me come up with some ideas or find a way to recreate the issue every time.
The issue is, sometimes the car won't start. When I turn the key, everything comes on in the cabin, but there's no response at all. There's no response at all that I can detect from the engine bay (no clicking of relays, no turning of starter).
Assuming a hill or a friendly stranger is nearby, I can always push start the car. A couple times, there haven't been friendly strangers or hills, or heinous speed bumps that wouldn't allow me to push start it.
When it won't start, I'm not getting any kind of DIC messages, odd behavior from the gauges, or flashing lights on the dash.
I've towed the car to the dealership a couple times. Typically what's happened then is once we get it off the tow truck, it starts up just fine doing nothing differently than the time before. I've learned now that I just wait and keep trying every 10-15 minutes until it starts up, usually within 2-3 hours, it has started back up.
I changed my battery back in April due to this problem (and others, my old battery was on the way out). On an unrelated (I hope) note, I also had the left side and right side daytime running lights replaced here recently.
Since taking it to the dealership and LG, we've done the following in the hopes that it'd fix the issue (even though they couldn't recreate it):
1. Replaced the ignition switch.
2. Deleted the VATS from the ECU/PCM
I'm currently stranded at my office waiting for it to start back up. I took a video with phone in the parking garage (see below) and I pulled the codes from the DIC and Googled them, I think that they seem to line up with replacing my battery and having to replace the DRLs. None of the other codes seem to line up with starting problems:
40-BCM -Body Control Module
B0432H Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503H RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508H LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503H RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508H LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module
B2282H Battery #1 Fault
B2284H Battery #2 Fault
U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM
B2284H Battery #2 Fault
U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module
B2283H Battery #1 Fault
B2285H Battery #2 Fault
B2285H Battery #2 Fault
A6-SCM - Seat Control Module
B0851H Battery 1 Out of Range
B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation
U1255H Serial Data Line Malfunction
If anyone has any suggestions on things that I can try, or ask a mechanic to try on my behalf, I'd appreciate it. Mostly, I'd like to figure out how I can recreate it so they can see what's going on, I know that's going to be the best way to get the problem fixed.
In the meantime, I'm scrounging around the office looking for some cleaning product to clean the pellet on my key, on the off chance it's just dirty.
Thanks for your help!
#2
Burning Brakes
Sounds like another job for the amazing Bill Curlee. If it were me, I would have to look at the wiring diagrams to see what points I could check for voltage going to and leaving the ignition switch, both off and then in the start position. This will take 2 people, a good meter, wiring diagrams and someone that knows how to read them. Good luck, hopefully Bill will read your post and work his magic.
Last edited by Lt. Dan M.; 07-29-2014 at 05:37 PM.
#3
Intermediate
Same problem here, sir
Hey guys, long-time lurker very rare poster here. Sorry in advance for writing a book, I appreciate those of you who make it all the way to the end!
I've been having problems with my '02 Z06 starting for quite some time and the local dealership and the guys at LG Motorsports aren't able to re-create it.
Naturally, because they can't re-create it they're having a hard time diagnosing/fixing the issue. I'm hoping someone can help me come up with some ideas or find a way to recreate the issue every time.
The issue is, sometimes the car won't start. When I turn the key, everything comes on in the cabin, but there's no response at all. There's no response at all that I can detect from the engine bay (no clicking of relays, no turning of starter).
Assuming a hill or a friendly stranger is nearby, I can always push start the car. A couple times, there haven't been friendly strangers or hills, or heinous speed bumps that wouldn't allow me to push start it.
When it won't start, I'm not getting any kind of DIC messages, odd behavior from the gauges, or flashing lights on the dash.
I've towed the car to the dealership a couple times. Typically what's happened then is once we get it off the tow truck, it starts up just fine doing nothing differently than the time before. I've learned now that I just wait and keep trying every 10-15 minutes until it starts up, usually within 2-3 hours, it has started back up.
I changed my battery back in April due to this problem (and others, my old battery was on the way out). On an unrelated (I hope) note, I also had the left side and right side daytime running lights replaced here recently.
Since taking it to the dealership and LG, we've done the following in the hopes that it'd fix the issue (even though they couldn't recreate it):
1. Replaced the ignition switch.
2. Deleted the VATS from the ECU/PCM
I'm currently stranded at my office waiting for it to start back up. I took a video with phone in the parking garage (see below) and I pulled the codes from the DIC and Googled them, I think that they seem to line up with replacing my battery and having to replace the DRLs. None of the other codes seem to line up with starting problems:
40-BCM -Body Control Module
A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module
A6-SCM - Seat Control Module
B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation
Neckhole's '02 Z06 hates him, won't start. (YouTube)
If anyone has any suggestions on things that I can try, or ask a mechanic to try on my behalf, I'd appreciate it. Mostly, I'd like to figure out how I can recreate it so they can see what's going on, I know that's going to be the best way to get the problem fixed.
In the meantime, I'm scrounging around the office looking for some cleaning product to clean the pellet on my key, on the off chance it's just dirty.
Thanks for your help!
I've been having problems with my '02 Z06 starting for quite some time and the local dealership and the guys at LG Motorsports aren't able to re-create it.
Naturally, because they can't re-create it they're having a hard time diagnosing/fixing the issue. I'm hoping someone can help me come up with some ideas or find a way to recreate the issue every time.
The issue is, sometimes the car won't start. When I turn the key, everything comes on in the cabin, but there's no response at all. There's no response at all that I can detect from the engine bay (no clicking of relays, no turning of starter).
Assuming a hill or a friendly stranger is nearby, I can always push start the car. A couple times, there haven't been friendly strangers or hills, or heinous speed bumps that wouldn't allow me to push start it.
When it won't start, I'm not getting any kind of DIC messages, odd behavior from the gauges, or flashing lights on the dash.
I've towed the car to the dealership a couple times. Typically what's happened then is once we get it off the tow truck, it starts up just fine doing nothing differently than the time before. I've learned now that I just wait and keep trying every 10-15 minutes until it starts up, usually within 2-3 hours, it has started back up.
I changed my battery back in April due to this problem (and others, my old battery was on the way out). On an unrelated (I hope) note, I also had the left side and right side daytime running lights replaced here recently.
Since taking it to the dealership and LG, we've done the following in the hopes that it'd fix the issue (even though they couldn't recreate it):
1. Replaced the ignition switch.
2. Deleted the VATS from the ECU/PCM
I'm currently stranded at my office waiting for it to start back up. I took a video with phone in the parking garage (see below) and I pulled the codes from the DIC and Googled them, I think that they seem to line up with replacing my battery and having to replace the DRLs. None of the other codes seem to line up with starting problems:
40-BCM -Body Control Module
B0432H Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503H RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508H LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503H RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508H LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module
B2282H Battery #1 Fault
B2284H Battery #2 Fault
U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM
B2284H Battery #2 Fault
U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module
B2283H Battery #1 Fault
B2285H Battery #2 Fault
B2285H Battery #2 Fault
A6-SCM - Seat Control Module
B0851H Battery 1 Out of Range
B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation
U1255H Serial Data Line Malfunction
Neckhole's '02 Z06 hates him, won't start. (YouTube)
If anyone has any suggestions on things that I can try, or ask a mechanic to try on my behalf, I'd appreciate it. Mostly, I'd like to figure out how I can recreate it so they can see what's going on, I know that's going to be the best way to get the problem fixed.
In the meantime, I'm scrounging around the office looking for some cleaning product to clean the pellet on my key, on the off chance it's just dirty.
Thanks for your help!
#5
Heel & Toe
Hi, I am no expert on these corvette's; however have you measured the voltage at the starting solenoid when in the crank positon to engage the starter. That is where I would look. Also, there have been a number of people who have reported the solenoid would not engage until they "tapped" it. Another item people have reported is loose connections at the starter. Let us know what you find at the starter solenoid.
Regards
Regards
#6
Same Problem
I had the same issue. Super frustrating.... Turns out that a new key that I had made at the dealer was causing the problem (something to do with the chip in the key). I've now only been using the original key that I got from the previous owner and haven't had a problem since. Just a thought...
Hope you get it worked out!
Hope you get it worked out!
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REKCUF (06-21-2017)
#8
Safety Car
Was going to say, why haven't they replaced the starter?
Mine didn't start one day, I was able to get a long bar and tap the solenoid, started right up and has started ever since. Although I did buy a solenoid just to have on hand.
I realize they can't replicate it, but sometimes a semi shotgun approach is ok
Mine didn't start one day, I was able to get a long bar and tap the solenoid, started right up and has started ever since. Although I did buy a solenoid just to have on hand.
I realize they can't replicate it, but sometimes a semi shotgun approach is ok
#9
Sounds like a bad starter. I had a similar issue with my other car, all lights come on but wouldn't start, i tapped the solenoid and it fired right up! It would start up on it's own every now and then and sometimes i would have to tap it. I replaced the starter and it fixed the problem.
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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2 likely causes are the starter/security relay or the starter itself. I'd think you could hear the relay clicking. If you're willing to do some testing yourself you could likely track it down fairly easily.
The easiest way to test is to get a wire with a ring on it and connect it to the solenoid. Tie the other end up by the battery where it is safe so it won't touch anything. Next time the car acts up just make 100% certain the car is in neutral then go under the hood and touch the wire to the positive battery post. If it starts then it's not the starter and you have to keep troubleshooting.
Here is a starter circuit schematic I found. I can't recall for sure but I think the relay may be on the firewall.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f100/zingr/687833.gif
The easiest way to test is to get a wire with a ring on it and connect it to the solenoid. Tie the other end up by the battery where it is safe so it won't touch anything. Next time the car acts up just make 100% certain the car is in neutral then go under the hood and touch the wire to the positive battery post. If it starts then it's not the starter and you have to keep troubleshooting.
Here is a starter circuit schematic I found. I can't recall for sure but I think the relay may be on the firewall.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f100/zingr/687833.gif
#11
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The schematic that lionelhutz provided is the KEY to solving your issue.
The THEFT DETERRENT RELAY is the heart of the cranking sequence. There are two sides of the relay. The CONTROL side and the power output side.
That relay is in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the fire wall. The relay will have FOUR wires.
First check all THREE fuses located in the I/P Fuse box #51, #52 and # 14
When you have all the safety circuits completed and the key in CRANK/START you apply 12 VDC to the control side of the relay. The BCM ground the Yellow/black wire when all of the security requirements are met.
When the control side gets energized it allows the 60 AMP 12 VDC power to go to the starter SOLENOID and the starter will run and crank the engine.
Things to check:
FUSES!
Main connections on the starter solenoid (Clean/ tight and not damaged)
Battery connections clean and tight. Battery terminal torque 97-2003 C5 torque to = 11 ft/lbs
Theft Deterrent Relay bad?
Is the SECURITY light on the IPC extinguished when you have the ignition ON?? If the security light isn’t out, you can’t crank the engine.
The resistor pellet on the key (VATS) needs to be read by the BCM to extinguish that light.
Bill
The THEFT DETERRENT RELAY is the heart of the cranking sequence. There are two sides of the relay. The CONTROL side and the power output side.
That relay is in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the fire wall. The relay will have FOUR wires.
First check all THREE fuses located in the I/P Fuse box #51, #52 and # 14
When you have all the safety circuits completed and the key in CRANK/START you apply 12 VDC to the control side of the relay. The BCM ground the Yellow/black wire when all of the security requirements are met.
When the control side gets energized it allows the 60 AMP 12 VDC power to go to the starter SOLENOID and the starter will run and crank the engine.
Things to check:
FUSES!
Main connections on the starter solenoid (Clean/ tight and not damaged)
Battery connections clean and tight. Battery terminal torque 97-2003 C5 torque to = 11 ft/lbs
Theft Deterrent Relay bad?
Is the SECURITY light on the IPC extinguished when you have the ignition ON?? If the security light isn’t out, you can’t crank the engine.
The resistor pellet on the key (VATS) needs to be read by the BCM to extinguish that light.
Bill
#12
Tech Contributor
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St. Jude Donor '08
Reviewing your Vid again, I noticed that you still have the steering wheel locking motor active. (The Column Lock System)
It is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED that you get a Column Lock Bypass module and bypass that system. I recommend the LMC-5 Bypass.
One day you will go out to take the car for a ride and you won’t be going anywhere.
I also didnt see the security light when you had the ignition ON.
Another common C5 starting fault is a bad starter solenoid. If you have someone hold the ignition in the START position, rap the starter and if the solenoid is the cause the mechanical agitation will usually cause the starter to crank.
It is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED that you get a Column Lock Bypass module and bypass that system. I recommend the LMC-5 Bypass.
One day you will go out to take the car for a ride and you won’t be going anywhere.
I also didnt see the security light when you had the ignition ON.
Another common C5 starting fault is a bad starter solenoid. If you have someone hold the ignition in the START position, rap the starter and if the solenoid is the cause the mechanical agitation will usually cause the starter to crank.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 07-30-2014 at 04:08 PM.
#13
Intermediate
Lo and behold...today I went out and had my wife sit in the driver's seat while I pushed the car a foot or so backward toward the edge of the garage. My plan was to let it roll in reverse down the driveway and pop the clutch to get it running. We changed places and just for the heck of it, I tried to start it and it fired right up! The only thing we did--aside from moving it a foot or so--that I haven't done previously is move the seat all the way forward so she could reach the brake pedal.
#14
Team Owner
#15
Intermediate
Although I thought my no-crank problem stemmed from something going on in the wiring under the driver's seat, today, the starter failed as usual and I hadn't moved the seat since yesterday when it started okay. So this morning, when I got the no-crank response, I tapped the solenoid with a long metal pipe and thereafter it started right up.
Tomorrow, I'll begin the process of removing the starter. I have long-tube headers, so I'm not looking forward to this. At the same time, I fear the dreaded starter breaking off a portion of the block nightmare that Junkman and others have experienced, so I'm primed.
#17
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St. Jude Donor '08
Bill, I believe I've read earlier posts where you've described rapping the solenoid on your own car to get the starter to engage.
Although I thought my no-crank problem stemmed from something going on in the wiring under the driver's seat, today, the starter failed as usual and I hadn't moved the seat since yesterday when it started okay. So this morning, when I got the no-crank response, I tapped the solenoid with a long metal pipe and thereafter it started right up.
Tomorrow, I'll begin the process of removing the starter. I have long-tube headers, so I'm not looking forward to this. At the same time, I fear the dreaded starter breaking off a portion of the block nightmare that Junkman and others have experienced, so I'm primed.
Although I thought my no-crank problem stemmed from something going on in the wiring under the driver's seat, today, the starter failed as usual and I hadn't moved the seat since yesterday when it started okay. So this morning, when I got the no-crank response, I tapped the solenoid with a long metal pipe and thereafter it started right up.
Tomorrow, I'll begin the process of removing the starter. I have long-tube headers, so I'm not looking forward to this. At the same time, I fear the dreaded starter breaking off a portion of the block nightmare that Junkman and others have experienced, so I'm primed.
I suppose a loose starter bolt over time could also cause it to snap. Follow the torque recommendations and purchase the two long bolt starter.
Bill
#19
Intermediate
Roger that. I was inferring that despite the prospect of a PITA project, replacing the starter now hopefully accomplishes two things: it resolves this frustrating no-crank business and given that I will replace the problem unit with the design that requires two long bolts, I can breathe easier that I've saved myself from the broken block fiasco.
#20
Instructor
Member Since: May 2014
Location: Hampton GA
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Starting Problem
Roger that. I was inferring that despite the prospect of a PITA project, replacing the starter now hopefully accomplishes two things: it resolves this frustrating no-crank business and given that I will replace the problem unit with the design that requires two long bolts, I can breathe easier that I've saved myself from the broken block fiasco.
I too am experiencing this similar problem. Just wanted to add another symptom. When I turn the ignition switch, nothing happens except a humming sound which I believe is the electric fuel pump. After pushing the car backwards to load it up on a flatbed, then trying to start it again just for grins, it started right up. Also, could moisture on the ignition key cause a problem with sensing the chip in the key?
Carcrisis