So, I cranked the car up for the first time in a week and a half...the belt was squealing so I rolled it down the driveway and just left it cranked...it ran for about 15 minutes while I cleaned out the inside and the squeal went away. No big deal.

Well, right before I go to shut the car off...I start getting low voltage warnings...I look at the battery information and it is steadily losing power...I shut the car the off. When I pull the key I notice the seat doesn't move since its a power seat...I put the key back into the car and nothing...its a brick.

I popped the hood and it had a burning type smell coming from the alternator...had to push the car, 02 C5Z, back in the garage.

I hooked a trickle charger up to the 2 month old optimum red top...seems fully charged. I'll drop it off at Autozone for a test tomorrow.

The car is getting zero power...did I burn up the alternator which I had rebuilt about a year ago...and blow some fuses? I have no idea.

Can anybody help me out?

 

No spuclation until you get the battery fully tested. If You have a fully charged battery, you can run the engine without the alternator (until the battery goes below 8 VDC. Then all the modules shut down.


Report battery health. Insure that you TORQUE the battery terminals properly to 11 ft/lbs and the terminals are clean

BC

 

Sounds like alternator is toast, you might want to have it tested too.

 

Battery was toast. I had the battery replaced under warranty. Another Optima Red Top is under the hood.

Well, I put the battery into the car and the car starts lighting up all over the place...obviously a battery issue...

So I clear all the codes, crank the car right up, drive it down the driveway...after being cranked for about 2 minutes...the car starts dropping voltage again...I drive the car back up the drive way. I pop the hood and everything seems normal under the hood but the alternator is wicked hot. I can't even touch it without burning my finger. So, I unhook the battery and hooked it up on my trickle charger.

The alternator was rebuilt less than a year ago...no way on this earth I have had 2 bad batteries in a row.

Any ideas? Is it possible I have a bad ground or something?

The extras I am running: Shift Light, N2MB Box, Racetronix Fuel pump with hot wire kit.

The car ran fine after the shift light and n2mb...for over a year.

A shop installed the racetronix...but I drove the car for about a week or so.

First sign of any type of issue...the last couple of days it was driving without issue the fuel "leveler" read empty after I put a full tank in. I shut the car off, cranked it up after clearing the code...and everything was normal for the next 2 days.

Now this.

 

Take the alternator out & have it checked

 

Autozone confirmed...alternator is toast.

Guess it is time to upgrade that POS this go around instead of having it rebuilt...obviously can't handle the extra load being put on it.

Any suggestions on amp output? Or where to buy from? I see the Mecman's are freakin' expensive...

 

With the alternator that hot the windings just might be damaged so it can't be rebuilt. It's hard to know without disassembling it.

Lots of people get charging system warnings when they use anything but the Valeo alternator. You can get around it with tuning. Replacement Valeo alternators are available on Ebay and such.

 

The OEM alternator (when properly working ) is fine. Just have your OEM alternator rebuilt. That way, you know what you have and there will not be any issues.


Bill

 

I have heard that the upgraded alternators can give people issues

Bill,

This will be the second time it has been rebuilt...my fear is that I keep adding to it...and it will just burn up faster this go around.

They're only rated at 110 AMP from what I saw.

Fuel Pump, Nitrous, 2 Step, Shift Light, etc...

 

Well,,, I seriously doubt that your anywhere near 100 amps You can confirm that by turning everything ON and measuring the alternator with a clamp on DC Amp Meter.

 

New alternator...another rebuild should be completed Monday.

I will test it to be safe...

I've heard that I shouldn't be "pushing" the alternator from several sources...I'll confirm amperage.

I have to have something else going on with the car from the sounds of it

 

Wiring may be too small for some of your high current addons.

 

Alternator?...looked down while at traffic light and saw that all my instruments were not working.....I pulled into right lane and thank God....car then stalled and would not start again.....this happens in Two other vehicles I owned......any other ideas because I feel it is the alternate from all signs.....2003 special anniv....57k miles

 

ANYONE here could just tell you "YES,,,, its the alternator" and have you replace it. Then you write back and say that you have the SAME ISSUE!!

Unless you are made of cash,, you need to do some troubleshooting to help pin point the issue.. Could be something as simple as a loose or bad connection.

Here is the charging schematic for 98-2004...




remove and clean the battery terminals and cables. Retorque battery terminal bolts to 11 ft/lbs.. Check the BATT/ALT connection terminal on the starter solenoid for clean/tight connections.

Use a DC Volt meter and measure the voltage on the BACK of the alternator (BATT TERMINAL) Should have battery voltage at all times and full charging voltage with engine running..

Pin D on the small plug (RED WIRE), same as above..

Bill

 

Lots of trouble related to batteries, connections, and grounds...

http://www.saccitycorvette.com/Big-3.html