Automatic transmission revving too high before shifting from first gear, then very slushy shift depending on throttle level. Technician says it's actually missing second gear and going from 1st to 3rd, and probably never shifting into 4th. Says 2-4 band and drum probably worn out. Solenoid operation ok. Shifts are being commanded properly. Recommending SRTA GM Remanufactured transmission. Major bucks and two weeks to get the transmission from the US!

Also just had rear hub replaced the day before. Technician says coincidence would have nothing to do with this.

88,000 km's (55,000 miles)

What do you guys think of all this? Seem reasonable? I'm no mechanic.

 

Have you ever had the transmission fluid changed? Do you know if its full of fluid

Do yoi have any PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)???

READ AND POST the DTCs using the DIC:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

[QUOTE=Bill Curlee;1587532292]Have you ever had the transmission fluid changed? Do you know if its full of fluid

Do yoi have any PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)???

READ AND POST the DTCs using the DIC:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes





Thanks for your reply. I do know how to check the codes and have a reference sheet and there are no codes related to the transmission and no current codes. My understanding from reading other psots on transmission issues on the C5 is there is no dipstick for the transmission on a C5 so I did not check the fluid. I am assuming (perhaps wrongly) that the Technician would have considered the fluid levels. I think the only way to check is to drain it and measure what comes out? Is that right? I have only owned the car for a little over a year and have not changed the fluid. maybe I should have.

 

[QUOTE=Tru Blu;1587532374]Also there are no apparent leaks nothing on the garage floor under the car etc

 

Raise the car LEVEL!. Starte the engine. Remove the transmissing fill inspection plug (engine running engine & trans completely warm) The ATF should be at the bottom of the inspection plug opening. Reinstall the plug.

DONE!

IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, You remove the plug with the engine off, you will loose a whole bunch of ATF immediately!

Bill

 

Thanks for your advice. I really do appreciate your help. Do you think the GM technician would do this before recommending a new transmission? I must admit I didn't ask and I don't see any comment on the work order about it. Seems like something a transmission specialist would check? I know they do hook it up to some sort of electronic device that checks various things but i don't know if that includes fluid levels. Maybe I will go back and ask them to confirm. Any thoughts on the quality of the GM SRTA remanufactured transmission? Thanks again.

 

Most stealerships would rather sell you a transmission..I'd take the car to a reputable Transmission Repair Facility and ask them to check the trans fluid first before I'd jump into a $2000.00 plus job !

 

100% Exactly what I was about to post. Get that second independant opinion. Ask them to check the ATF Level.

Ive seen "STEALERSHIPS replacee an ENTIRE ENGINE due to a clogged CAT and charge the qwner $6500.

It could very well be damaged but,, you may also find an independant shop to do the work for less.

I do not know if theres a way ELECTRONICALLY to check the fluid level. At leaset the service manual doesnt reference any.



Bill

 

Don't buy another trans, call RPM Transmissions (a vendor here) & discuss your options

http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/

 

Thanks again to all for your comments and suggestions. Most appreciated. I called the dealer and asked them to confirm that their Tech had checked the fluid levels. They said they had, the Tech has 17 years experience etc etc. This dealer sponsors our local Corvette Club, we have our monthly meetings in their shop etc so I guess it kinda boils down to whether I trust them or not. There is also the rather massive expense of getting this done so not just a matter of trust I guess. More like getting a second opinion from a doctor about a health matter! The second opinion will probably cost $150 to at today's labor rates but compared to the cost of anew tranny it may well be worth it. It's all such a pain and expense. It hasn't been a good week I tell you!

 

Whoever checks the fluid level needs to be aware that the Service Manual strictly states that the fluid temperature MUST BE between 86 - 122 degrees F.

A few years ago I checked my trans fluid level. It was at operating temperature. It was FULL and the trans still slipped. I checked again and I waited until the fluid temp dropped to the factory specified temp. I was 22 oz. LOW!! refilled the trans, no more slipping.

 

Thought you guys may be interested to hear the end of the story. I cancelled my order at the dealership for the SRTA remanufactured transmission. A trusted fellow club member recommended an independent shop that he deals with. They checked it out and confirmed burnt band, clutches etc. They rebuilt it and installed a Sonnax HP shift kit. The shift kit gives faster firmer shifts, extends the life of the transmission, and can improve gas mileage. At low speed the shifts are crisper but not uncomfortable. At full throttle there is a huge difference. You guys probably know all the benefits already but just thought I would mention it as I am pretty happy with that upgrade. Job was done in 3 days and about $700 cheaper than the dealer. I am now happily driving my Corvette again.

Thanks again for all your advice.

 

THANK YOU very much for the up-date.

Glad you were able to save some cash and get it fixed with upgrades.

Bill