I have a 97 automatic C5 that has begun to leak from the timing cover and I am finding small spots of coolant under the car as well from time to time. I know the steering rack has to come out to reseal the timing cover and water pump. Since that is going to get done, should I be replacing the timing gears, chain, and oil pump as well? Do I need to drop the pan? How much more work would it be to pull the engine entirely and just re-seal the whole thing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

How many miles are on the car?

I would replace the timing chain. The existing gears can stay. If the motor is stock you can leave the oil pump, it extremely rare for one to go bad..Not a very big job to change it however, the front of the oil pan needs to be loosened and lowered to get access to the pickup tube bolts.

Removing the engine is a very big job on a C5.

 

Not on the C5, only on the F-bodies.
Oil pump is cheap enough that I would change it. Melling makes a good high volume pump. Definitely replace the front seal AND the harmonic balancer. Pin the crank if you want...you don't have to, but it's nice to have the extra insurance. Also, either buy a new GM bolt and follow the proper tightening procedure or buy an ARP crank bolt.

Rent the chrysler harmonic balancer puller at autozone, it's WAY better than the universal 3 jaw puller.

 

What is "not on the C5 only f bodies?"

 

My car has 151k miles. The car is stock, just rebuilt the trans this summer. Why do I need to pin the crank? New balancer? Any suggestions? Will a stock timing chain do just fine or do I need an upgraded one? Didn't think about the ARP crank bolt, I'll definitely get that. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

You don't need to pin the crank, thats for hipo builds and forced induction.
The stock balancers are known to separate and come apart. With all that mileage its a good time to replace it as it has to come off anyway. The LS2 timing chain for around $40 cant be beat. ARP bolt is also about $40 and a good idea, but the stock one for $5 will work fine.

 

Ok, so LS2 timing chain, new crank bolt, and a new balancer. Any suggestions for the balancer? What is the consensus on replacing the oil pump? Is that necessary?

Thanks again.

 

You do not need to pin the crank. You can just install a new OEM dampener. It lasted this long so, I wouldn’t really worry about it.

The ARP bolt is a NO MUS NO FUSS crank it down to XXX ft/lbs and forget it.

LS 2/7 Timing chain is an up-grader for your engine.

Melling Oil Pump

I have done 8 oil pump replacements and have NEVER had to remove or loosen the oil pan. It’s a little tight but is easily doable.

You can change the Water Pump without removing the rack or front of the engine.

You have an early C5 and the entire worst part of the whole water pump job will be scraping off that damn nasty black gasket that GM use to use. Replace that old gasket with the new up-dated aluminum rubber O ring gasket. Much Better!!

To get the dampener off,, YES you will need to remove the rack.

The damper is sealed with a seal that is PRESSED into the timing chain cover. Just carefully tap it in. I use a very large socket to hammer it in straight. Oil up the lip seal before you press on the dampener.

The timing chain cover gasket will fit on two ways. Only one way is the correct way. If you get it wrong it will cause a massive oil leak.

Bill

 

You don't need to touch the oil pan to get the pick up tube bolt on the corvette, that is only required on camaros/firebirds (f-bodies)

 

Is there a step by step procedure written out to do all of this? I have been searching and cannot seem to find anything. Thanks in advance.

 

YES Its called the Helm,, Service Manual for your year C5. Well worth the dollar.

Its a very thick THREE VOLUME SET and a welth of knowledge.

I have a 98, 2002 and 2004 set


Bill

 

Thanks Bill, I found the 4 volume set with the updates on Ebay for 60 bucks. Now I just need to decide if I just want to do the water pump and live with the oil leak for now or not. It does have 151k miles, so some preventative maintenance might not be the worst thing in the world. Thanks.

 

On mine, with 78k miles, that front seal had worn a big groove in the balancer. So both needed replaced.
I have powerbond balancers on both my cars.

Scoggins Dickey is a good source for parts and have their own balancer bolt that is a bit cheaper than the ARP.

Ron

 

Ron and I had the same problems:



I had oil from the front of the engine to the rear cradle!

I went the power bond route also:

 

Bill, how did you get photos of my old and new balancers?
Ha!

Ron