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ABS & Traction Control lights on constantly

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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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Default ABS & Traction Control lights on constantly

I have a 1998 C5 and the ABS and Traction Control lights come on after about 1 minute of starting the car. They do not go off until the car is turned off. I've been through most of the threads on the Forum to help me with the cause. I pulled all the error messages from the car and I only get C1233H-RF Wheel Circuit Open or shorted. I assume this means I have a problem in the right front wheel. What's in the wheel? Could it be anything else?

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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
The most likely cause of that code is the wiring related to the wheel speed sensor for the RF wheel. Pull the RF wheel off and carefully examine the wiring from the wheel speed sensor to and beyond the connector. If the wiring is damaged, repair as needed. If the wiring is good then separate the two halves of the connector and carefully examine each connector half for corrosion and/or bent/deformed pins. Carefully repair as needed. In MOST cases the wheel speed sensor is good and it is the wiring or connector. However if after attempting to repair the wiring/connector and then clearing the code, the code returns it may be the sensor itself.
whats an rf wheel? sorry dont know all the lingo
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 12:53 PM
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right front
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Old Sep 4, 2014 | 04:37 PM
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Examined the right front wheel sensor wiring & it all seems fine. Connectors appear okay as well. I was planning to replace the sensor. GM tells me I have buy the entire wheel hub assembly to get a new wheel sensor for $500. Isn't there a way to just replace the sensor?
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Old Sep 4, 2014 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by carrollws
Examined the right front wheel sensor wiring & it all seems fine. Connectors appear okay as well. I was planning to replace the sensor. GM tells me I have buy the entire wheel hub assembly to get a new wheel sensor for $500. Isn't there a way to just replace the sensor?
No. There are a couple of things you can do. First, lift the right front wheel off the ground and then using your hands positioned in the 12 and 6 positions see if you can rock the wheel up and down. If you can replace the hub/sensor as the hub is worn out. If the hub tests good mechanically you can use a DVM set on AC volts to measure the signal output from the sensor. Spin the wheel and see if you get a voltage measurement. The reading should be above 100mv.

Check with autozone or advance auto parts for a replacement hub. Autozone sells the Timkens that GM used for less than $200 and they aren't all that hard to change.

To change lift the wheel off the ground, remove it and the brake caliper and caliper bracket. Then remove the rotor. There are three torx headed bolts that hold the hub on the knuckle from the rear. Two will be easy to remove the bottom one will require dropping the ball joint stud that comes from the lower control arm. Loosen the nut but leave it screwed on the stud with a few threads. Then using a BFH hammer the side of the knuckle where the stud is inserted. Hit it hard and then check to see if the stud came loose. Keep hitting until the stud comes loose. Then remove the nut and lower the stud so you can get to the head of the last hub bolt. Disconnect the ABS connector, remove the hub and replace it and put everything back together again. That bottom hub bolt sticks out through the knuckle and can get a lot of dirt build up on the threads so you can make things easier on yourself by making sure those threads are cleaned up before turning the bolt out through the knuckle.

Bill
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 12:34 AM
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Almost always the wiring or connecters. Very unusual for sensor to be bad unless the hub is damaged.
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 07:09 AM
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Try swapping the wires between right side to left side. Strange but it works.
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