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Intermitten starting problem

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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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Default Intermitten starting problem

Ok the car is a 2001 z06. I have replaced the battery. I also had the battery rechecked in case it was defective new battery.

The problem is sometimes I will get in the car and it will not start. Other times I get in the car and it starts fine. I have used jumper cables and the car starts. When the car will not start all the electrical stuff like radio, fuel pump will prime, ac hood light all work and when you turn the key they turn off like normal but the car does not start. It does nothing, no clicking, no noise from the starter. I just went out to pull the codes and it will not start. While getting the codes I noticed the security light is constant flashing. One code is showing up in a couple different modules. My tuner has the Vats system turned off. We also put a jumper wire in the clutch safety switch to eliminate that as a possibility. Anyone else had a similar issue? Any ideas what the problem could be?

Codes from the DIC

TCS - c1233h
BCM - B2721hc
B2723h
U1096H
SDM - U1096H
LDCM - U1096H
RDCM - B2265H
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 04:14 PM
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Check the wire connection at the starter & give it a light tap with a hammer while you're there. See if it starts
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 04:18 PM
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bad/failing ground wire/loose ground connection on the battery?


All of your codes are history, except this one:

BCM - B2721hc

digging around in some old posts, appears that code points to an issue with the pellet in your key or the pellet reader in the switch itself.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/tags/b2721.html

Last edited by aj98; Aug 19, 2014 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Ok, I went out and pulled the passenger side floor board off and pushed the connectors into the bcm. They did not look loose or really seem to move and the car started right up. Wish I could say it was fixed but the problem has been so intermittent I am not confident the problem is fixed.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
It will be back....
What do you recommend to fix it for good?
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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Ok new information.

The problem came back and I got the bcm 2721 code again. Today the shop I use for work performed the resistor work around and the car would not start even with it. He then messed with it some more and the car started with no resistor and the vats wire not connected at all.

So the Vats is turned off. Vats has been tried with the resistor trick, with vats circuit open. It starts and no starts with no matter what the condition of the vats circuit. The security light still flashes when it does not start and it turns off when it does start. The BCM connections are pushed all the way in.

Anyone else had this problem or ideas of what is causing the problem?
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 07:44 PM
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GM Starters (especially in the C5 years) has a EXTREMELY WELL DOCUMENTED starter solenoid NO START issue. As SEVERAL have suggested, when the car refuses to start, RAP the starter with a TOOL, IRON BAR, WOODEN DOWL, LONG PVC PIPE etc etc................................ while some one pushes in the clutch and holds the ignition switch to START.

IF (MECHANICALY AGGATITING ) the starter causes it to CRANK,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,, REPLACE TGHE SOLENOID) or the entire starter.

Simple as that....
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
GM Starters (especially in the C5 years) has a EXTREMELY WELL DOCUMENTED starter solenoid NO START issue. As SEVERAL have suggested, when the car refuses to start, RAP the starter with a TOOL, IRON BAR, WOODEN DOWL, LONG PVC PIPE etc etc................................ while some one pushes in the clutch and holds the ignition switch to START.

IF (MECHANICALY AGGATITING ) the starter causes it to CRANK,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,, REPLACE TGHE SOLENOID) or the entire starter.

Simple as that....
I will be more than happy if it turns out to be the starter. My last question is, will a bad starter cause the security light flashing problem as well?
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by silver408z
I will be more than happy if it turns out to be the starter. My last question is, will a bad starter cause the security light flashing problem as well?
No. Check for power to the s terminal when it doesn't crank.
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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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i am totally lost sorry cant help you
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 03:48 PM
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If your security light is flashing when you have the key in the ignition and ON, NO,,, your car will not crank.

You MUST solve that issue FIRST. It deals with the resistor chip in your KEY. The resistor makes contact with the key reader sensor on the end of the ignition switch. If the key reader doesnt make contact with the resistor pellet, the security light will not go out and your car will NOT crank.


You can disconnect the connector that goes to the key reader and read insert the Key into the ignition and read the value of the resistor to see if the key reader sensor is working. Its just TWO contacts inside the read the value of the resistor on the key.

Make sure that the resistor on the key is clean and not damaged. Read it with the ohm meter.

BC
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If your security light is flashing when you have the key in the ignition and ON, NO,,, your car will not crank.

You MUST solve that issue FIRST. It deals with the resistor chip in your KEY. The resistor makes contact with the key reader sensor on the end of the ignition switch. If the key reader doesnt make contact with the resistor pellet, the security light will not go out and your car will NOT crank.


You can disconnect the connector that goes to the key reader and read insert the Key into the ignition and read the value of the resistor to see if the key reader sensor is working. Its just TWO contacts inside the read the value of the resistor on the key.

Make sure that the resistor on the key is clean and not damaged. Read it with the ohm meter.

BC
I have tried both keys and have experienced the no start with both keys. When the tech was working on the vats he put the key in, turned the ignition switch and used an ohm meter to measure the resistance. It measured the same as just measuring the key by itself. Also we left the vats circuit open and the car started with no reading from the key at all. The tech has used HP tuners to set Vats to "none".

Last edited by silver408z; Aug 27, 2014 at 04:13 PM.
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