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Fuel Pump Removal/Install?

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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 03:25 PM
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Default Fuel Pump Removal/Install?

Well I guess im just wondering if the fuel pump removal and install is hard on a c5? also witch one to go with that can hold up to atleast 625hp. Every time I get n to the car I have to keep turning the key back and forth before the fuel pump will kick on and just the last time it took every bit of 20-30 mins to get it to start, I just don't want tobe going down the road and it go out Please Help Thanks
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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What year is your z? Only the early models I think 2002 and earlier have an easy access fuel tank from the drivers rear wheel well. The best upgrade for that power goal is the LPE pump and racetronix harness (either from lingenfelter or racetronix themselves).

That kit is good for 600whp with the pump alone and more with the harness upgrade. I think around 700whp.
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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I have the LPE pump and harness with BAP, and although I do run Meth, it looks like it is going to support around 800rwhp without dropping much pressure.
My pump (98) was simple, but not sure about the newer ones.
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
What year is your z? Only the early models I think 2002 and earlier have an easy access fuel tank from the drivers rear wheel well. The best upgrade for that power goal is the LPE pump and racetronix harness (either from lingenfelter or racetronix themselves).

That kit is good for 600whp with the pump alone and more with the harness upgrade. I think around 700whp.
Its a 01 Z
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stZ06vette
Its a 01 Z
You got lucky. Your pump is accessed through a panel on the tank behind the wheel liner.
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Last C5
You got lucky. Your pump is accessed through a panel on the tank behind the wheel liner.
Well that's good to hear! For once haha so I don't even have to drop the tank
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stZ06vette
Well that's good to hear! For once haha so I don't even have to drop the tank
yeah its pretty straight forward...one word of advice...make sure they send you the RIGHT GASKET ...my pump came with a different one than OEM so I was stuck and reused the OEM one....it didn't and has not leaked but I was pissed....
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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Well I have to work all this weekend but Sunday I'm going to try and test to make sure it's the fuel pump or the ignition switch so I don't just go drop 270 buck on a pump I don't need !!! So I'll let everyone know and we will go from there!!! Thanks for all the help so far keep it comin
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 01:32 PM
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Sure it is not the starter? I had same issue, replaced starter, fixed.
I did the pump too for my SC, not bad, but aggravating working in confined space tying to put pump back in, and not bind up float lever.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wht6spd
Sure it is not the starter? I had same issue, replaced starter, fixed.
I did the pump too for my SC, not bad, but aggravating working in confined space tying to put pump back in, and not bind up float lever.
Yea it cranks over good but u cannt hear the fuel pump cycle every time
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pewter99
yeah its pretty straight forward...one word of advice...make sure they send you the RIGHT GASKET ...my pump came with a different one than OEM so I was stuck and reused the OEM one....it didn't and has not leaked but I was pissed....
At first blush Robert, that sounds like you received the wrong part number from the get-go.

The earlier C5s, like your '99 (and mine) use a completely round gasket, plus the mounting bolts that come with it are of the "breakaway-head" design, as opposed to the later C5 pumps that come with a "Double D" gasket (flat on two sides) and non-breakaway bolts.

1997 to 1999:




Here's the gasket that SHOULD have come with yours, as shown above. Notice the breakaway-head bolts.



--------------------------------------------------------------------



2000 to 2003 (Early):



Later "Double D" gasket and non-breakaway bolts:

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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stZ06vette
Yea it cranks over good but u cannt hear the fuel pump cycle every time
You should check the pressure with a gauge when this happens. That pump only runs a few seconds when you turn the key.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BigGun
You should check the pressure with a gauge when this happens. That pump only runs a few seconds when you turn the key.
Yea but last time I tried starting it it took about 20-40 mins to get it to kick on
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stZ06vette
Yea but last time I tried starting it it took about 20-40 mins to get it to kick on
I then take it you've checked for voltage to the pump when the key gets turned on?

This may be a loose/poor power connection, or no/bad ground at the left rear frame rail.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
At first blush Robert, that sounds like you received the wrong part number from the get-go.

The earlier C5s, like your '99 (and mine) use a completely round gasket, plus the mounting bolts that come with it are of the "breakaway-head" design, as opposed to the later C5 pumps that come with a "Double D" gasket (flat on two sides) and non-breakaway bolts.

1997 to 1999:




Here's the gasket that SHOULD have come with yours, as shown above. Notice the breakaway-head bolts.



--------------------------------------------------------------------



2000 to 2003 (Early):



Later "Double D" gasket and non-breakaway bolts:




yep....I ordered it right from LPE and it was supposedly the correct part....everything else is spot on....so maybe I got the wrong part in the right box oh well....it all worked out but thanks for posting pics of what I described
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
I then take it you've checked for voltage to the pump when the key gets turned on?

This may be a loose/poor power connection, or no/bad ground at the left rear frame rail.
That's what I'm checking tomorrow
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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Well I had alittle time tonight after work to just check the relay and ding ding ding that worked. So now do I still change the pump to a bigger one tobe abale to handal 600+ hp or do I run the stock one ?
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stZ06vette
Well I had alittle time tonight after work to just check the relay and ding ding ding that worked. So now do I still change the pump to a bigger one tobe abale to handal 600+ hp or do I run the stock one ?
I guess you have larger injectors or plan on upgrading.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pewter99
I guess you have larger injectors or plan on upgrading.
Yes very lg injectors cam intake fuel rails and nitrous not quite finished with nitrous yet
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 1stZ06vette
Well I had alittle time tonight after work to just check the relay and ding ding ding that worked. So now do I still change the pump to a bigger one tobe abale to handal 600+ hp or do I run the stock one ?
If you're going to stay in the 600-700 range NA, I would definitely recommend a pump AND the Racetronix direct-wire (some call hot it "hotwire") wiring harness. The pump, in addition to being a higher capacity, is plug-n-play and has improved in-tank wiring. The hot wire harness is also plug-n-play, with NO cutting/soldering/rewiring of the OE wiring system on the car.

Shop here, or at any of several Racetronix distributors like Texas Speed, Lingenfelter or Tick Perfomance. You want the RFPK-007 kit:

www.racetronix.com/RX-C5-FPK-2.html

Note: If you're going much higher HP, I recommend contacting Lonnie's Performance for one of his dual, in-tank pumps.
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