I'd say spend the money ($1,100) and get the McLeod Dual disk, install $500, and nevr worry about the damn thing again. You will never make enough HP to power through that clutch. :cheers:

 

Yes, he could do that but you could do the same with a properly installed Ram ;) for a 1/3 of the price :D


[Modified by C5Noir, 12:32 AM 7/29/2002]

 

kh24, please go through this site in it's entirety: http://www.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm

This way you, your mechanic and I can operate on nearly the same page. This gives you the basics of how the clutch works and how it is controlled. Knowing this information makes it much easier to analytically think about different scenarios that could cause problems.

 

QUOTE]I'd say spend the money ($1,100) and get the McLeod Dual disk, install $500, and nevr worry about the damn thing again. You will never make enough HP to power through that clutch. :cheers:
Yes, he could do that but you could do the same with a properly installed Ram ;) for a 1/3 of the price :D


[Modified by C5Noir, 12:32 AM 7/29/2002][/QUOTE]
When I bought my clutch I didn't know about the RAM. Does it have any chatter, and how is the pedal feel?[

 

There is initial chatter on break-in if you don't give enough gas but none now after the break-in. And yes, there is quite a bit more pedal effort required but my leg has adapted already ;)

 

Just FYI: The increased pedal pressure applies to all aftermarket clutches, including the Cartek. As Levi has mentioned, your leg will get used to it after a week or two so don't worry about this too much.:cheers:

 

I will have NJVetteGuy look at it this time and put in the new disc. I never heard of having the fluid turning black means the slave is blown either. I checked the fluid after everyone and its was honey in color each time untill after the 7th run where its change in color was dramatic. My sig say 369rwhp but that was before i added the FLP headers....not that it matters. I also have a low trap speed(113mph) so i think the car has to be tuned and it is loosing power.

This is what I am gonna do
1.Adjust the master and see how it feels since the clutch grabbed harder on the last run and might not slip anymore

2.If that doesnt work I will take it to NJVetteGuy to install the other disc and I will break it in for 500 miles where i will be very gental and then bring it back for a readjustment and to check it out. If we also run into any problems we will call ram and McLeod for help.

3. If it doesnt work I am just going to have cartek put in their clutch and hope for the best. I have heard some complaints on the cartek and that is why i went with the Ram but if the ram wont work I have no other choice.

Thanks for the help guys and dont forget about the original topic to this thread.

 

Best bang for the buck:
'02 GM Slave: $50
Ram 402/6130 combo from SummitRacing $330-340
Cartek adjustable master $150 (I believe that's what it runs)
Resurface the stock flywheel $35
Install $350-500

I'd personally recommend the McLeod adjustable master cylinder ($300) and/or the AP racing adjustable master cylinder (from More Performance).
Without a doubt the best bang for the buck ;). Just be sure to get a good installer ;)


[Modified by C5Noir, 3:10 PM 7/29/2002]

 

kh24, nope it don't matter unless you're pushing at least 750+ RWHP with the RAM 402/6130, only then may you experience slippage ;)

 

I just tried adjusting the master. I turned the nut clockwise which moved the rod further into the firewall. Is that correct? I turned it quite a bit and it did not do anything. The clutch is still engagning about 3/4 of the way up. It is about 1" away from the brake pedal(with the brake pedal being all the way up)before it starts to grab. I think this needs to be pulled and i just gotta start over.

 

Hey AKW. How long have you had your Mcleod? I just installed one and at first that thing grab like a bear. Now, it's making noise...like
when a break rotor is being cut. The pedal feel soften a bit...any Ideas!!! It does not slip or smell...what gives?
Thanks.... :mad :mad :mad

 

kh24, if you're lengthening/shortening the master cylinder and the engagement point is the same it's your hydraulics, i.e. there is air in the system or the master is not working or your slave is busted. Call up McLeod right now and ask them what the deal is.


[Modified by C5Noir, 3:23 PM 7/29/2002]

 

Does anyone know of a good installer in the Detroit MI area so I won't experience any problems and get it done right the first time?

 

I'm at work right now and just saw the post. I would have called if i was at home working on the car. From what you have told me and my own info that i have gathered, is that when the clutch is engaging close to the top it is either not adjusted right/faulty hydrolics or it is a sign that the clutch has lots of wear and is on its way out. This disc could be faulty because of I think 2-3 slaves busting open on it. I will call NJVetteGuy tonight and see when he can take a look at it and try to get this sorted out. The pedal is smooth and the slave releases fully. It would get hung up when it blew out but still Artie saw the change in my fluid over the course of only one 1/4 run and said the slave might be going. Gotta get a pro to pull everything out and put it back together right. I am sure that the way it is now it is not an adjustment problem.

 

I will be checking out Joe's car next time. His tech at the dealer has not been doing too good with setting up that clutch. I saw the fluid inside when I removed the inspection cover after the last slave went, and recommended that when the tech replaced the slave he should install the new disc. Joe even purchased the disc at my recommendation, but I think the tech didn't want to bother with another r&r when he could get the car out the door with a quick slave replacement. I will be checking for a mechanical problem while I have everything apart. I saw Joe at the track, and I can verify that adjustment had little effect on the engagement point. Where the adjustment was moved to for the clutch to work properly, the clutch should have had trouble disengaging at all. There is definitely a hydraulic problem as well as mechanical, and I will be the one cleaning up the mess from another installer's lack of operational knowledge of aftermarket components.

 

Just don't charge me too much for cleaning up that mess cause i am flat broke now....remember i can pay you in beer, my dad owns a liquor store :lol: Oh and for the rest of you, your probably getting sick of looking at that sig pic of my car. Hell it's only every other post.


[Modified by kh24, 9:48 PM 7/29/2002]

 

I'm glad you agree :yesnod: Please let us know what you find out!

 

Here are some MI installers:
Detroit Speedworks, Aggresive Performance and APE