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Do I really need a new front running light socket ?
I recently had a driver side headlight motor replaced, also at that time my turn signal on the same side wasn't flashing..
I wanted them to change the parking/running bulb, but the shop mech says he couldn't because the socket is BURNED OUT and needs replacing..but my running light STILL WORKS fine..I don't get it..
Here's the question: isn't it the SAME bulb for running and turn signal. I gave him a fresh bulb..I wonder if he forgot to do it or was being lazy..very surly mechanic too.. Thanks for any replies.
I recently had a driver side headlight motor replaced, also at that time my turn signal on the same side wasn't flashing..
I wanted them to change the parking/running bulb, but the shop mech says he couldn't because the socket is BURNED OUT and needs replacing..but my running light STILL WORKS fine..I don't get it..
Here's the question: isn't it the SAME bulb for running and turn signal. I gave him a fresh bulb..I wonder if he forgot to do it or was being lazy..very surly mechanic too.. Thanks for any replies.
The picture below shows what your mechanic is talking about. These sockets tend to burn up due to heat and water leaking into the corner light housing after the hot bulb burns a hole in the top of the housing.
The burnt sockets pins for drl function may work, but the turn sig indicator pins may be hosed up.
This is the socket on my Z. It was caused by having the incorrect heat range bulb in the DRL. Pay attention to what bulb is installed, many are identical looking at them, but they are different internally.
Somebody needs to make a housing that is heat-proof so it can't get burned through and ultimately soaked..terrible design, what the hell were they thinking.. the GM brainless designer needs to go back to kindergarten..
Your welcome. Would recommend ordering two and replacing the "same problem" you probably have on the other side.
Or just order one, replace all of the bulbs with low heat LED's that won't burn the housings and allow water to leak, and call it done. Never worry about it again.
Or just order one, replace all of the bulbs with low heat LED's that won't burn the housings and allow water to leak, and call it done. Never worry about it again.
So we don't mislead SAXY, my comment was related to the "bulb sockets" not the bulb itself. There is a good chance he has the same burnt socket issue on the opposite side awaiting the opportunity to show itself. OP has posted a couple of threads on this topic and received the recommendations to replace the entire corner lamp assemblies, fix the holes burnt thru the corner lamp top surface, and install LED's.
Three possible culprits, sockets, bulbs, or holes in the corner lamp assembly. Have to fix more than one.
This is going to be a project I can see..for now I may try to go with a heat proof patch and simply replace my stock bulb to save money. I hope I can get the surly mech to help me with a temporary fix for the burnt hole..we'll see. I'll post the results. I know a new corner housing is pretty cheap. I saw them on eBay for less than $30. I don't know anything about LED conversions or necessary resistors. I'll concentrate on the one side for now since the other side still functions OK.
Don't use resistors with LED lights, they are a waste of time. Use a flasher bypass harness or just connect a flasher into the wiring as described in the sticky.
Assuming there are holes in your housings, if you pay someone to put the car on a hoist and remove the housing to try and patch the hole then you'd be better off just replacing them. Even if they just put it on a hoist and remove the filler plate on the bumper you might as well go the little extra and replace the housings. There are Depot replacements that look better anyways.
As for the surly mechanic. Why are you going back there?
Well the mech is the guy at a local shop that recently replaced my headlamp motors. I booked the job with the owner and never met the mech until the job was done. My Headlight covers weren't flush after the headlight motor job. They were flush when I took it in. When i went back after realising they needed adjusting the owner brought out the mech and he begrudgingly agreed to adjust them. It's going back in tomorrow. I paid a premium for the job so I don't think I'm being unreasonable asking them to finish the job.
BTW, I took it to my body guy after this job and he agreed that the covers need adjusting, he said he'd do it for $45.00 so I know I'm not imagining things..
These same folks have quoted me 1/2 hr labor to install a new turn signal/DRL socket once I get one.
Last edited by SaxyVette; Sep 3, 2014 at 07:45 PM.
Headlight covers fixed, they're now flush..I gotta send for a DRL socket and get ready to have it installed. The mech seemed to be having a better day, his attitude was much improved..I'd like to keep goin to this shop as it's close to home and it's good to have a shop that knows the car I think.
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jwmotoring gets my vote as far as sponsors on the forum, I have bought a lot of mine from him with good results and service... there are also some good sources on ebay
You know the socket is a 10 minute replacement that you can do yourself? The socket cable easily will out thru the brake duct hole in the bumper, snip off the old one, solder the new one on and use a little heat shrink to seal it up and you are done.
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