All Dashboard Lights Are Flashing, Etc.
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All Dashboard Lights Are Flashing, Etc.
I have searched this forum with "Dashboard Lights Flashing" but the threads did not provide the answers I am looking for. For about a month, I have been getting the "Active Handling System" error and a quick shudder of power loss occur about 10 minutes into a drive.
Then just last week I stopped for gas, went to start the car, turned the key to on, and all the dashboard lights and DIC began rapidly flashing and clicking. This continued for about 20 seconds, stopped, and "Low Voltage" and "Reduced Engine Power" and "Service Active Handling System" and "Service Traction Control System" came up, one-after-the-other. I turned key to start the car which slowly turned over and started. Put in gear, let out the clutch, and sure enough, I had dramatically reduced engine power!! I floored the gas and drove the six blocks home at a top speed of 10 mph!!
The battery checks out. So do the cables. I have started to clean the 13 grounds and connectors shown by the Bill Curley post, and will continue down that path. Any other ideas?
Then just last week I stopped for gas, went to start the car, turned the key to on, and all the dashboard lights and DIC began rapidly flashing and clicking. This continued for about 20 seconds, stopped, and "Low Voltage" and "Reduced Engine Power" and "Service Active Handling System" and "Service Traction Control System" came up, one-after-the-other. I turned key to start the car which slowly turned over and started. Put in gear, let out the clutch, and sure enough, I had dramatically reduced engine power!! I floored the gas and drove the six blocks home at a top speed of 10 mph!!
The battery checks out. So do the cables. I have started to clean the 13 grounds and connectors shown by the Bill Curley post, and will continue down that path. Any other ideas?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you have low voltage or charging system faults,, you have to start there! The engine TURNING OVER SLOWLY indicates that you have a primary battery power issue and or an engine ground problem. That specific ground would be engine block ground G-106 There are TWO wires on that ground point. The PCM/BCM Ground wire and battery ground for the engine starter and electronics.
While you are examining G106,,, Make sure that the wires on the solenoid are clean/tight and the plastic insulator on the end of the solenoid is not burnt or cracked.
Another area of concern is chassis ground G-104/108. Find the small black ground wire on the negative battery terminal and follow it to the stud on the chassis. Make sure that it is not corroded/loose or the eyelet and wire are not damaged.
The C5 or C6 DOES NOT like low voltage.
How did you check the battery? Are your battery cables properly torqued on to the battery. Must be tightened/torqued to11 ft/lbs for 97-2003 C5s for proper connections
NEXT: Check the Ignition Switch. You can actually measure the voltage on the ignition switch powered fuses and if you dont have full battery voltage on those fuses, the ignition switch needs repaired or replaced.
Bill
While you are examining G106,,, Make sure that the wires on the solenoid are clean/tight and the plastic insulator on the end of the solenoid is not burnt or cracked.
Another area of concern is chassis ground G-104/108. Find the small black ground wire on the negative battery terminal and follow it to the stud on the chassis. Make sure that it is not corroded/loose or the eyelet and wire are not damaged.
The C5 or C6 DOES NOT like low voltage.
How did you check the battery? Are your battery cables properly torqued on to the battery. Must be tightened/torqued to11 ft/lbs for 97-2003 C5s for proper connections
NEXT: Check the Ignition Switch. You can actually measure the voltage on the ignition switch powered fuses and if you dont have full battery voltage on those fuses, the ignition switch needs repaired or replaced.
Bill
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Thanks, Bill.
I took the battery to O'Reilly's and Auto Zone. Both verified battery was good. I had already checked/cleaned G-104/103 as they were relatively easy to access. G-106 is not easy, as you probably know. I can see 106 through/behind the exhaust manifold and it looks fine to me. If you insist I need to access 106 to be sure, what must I remove to get to it? There is so much in the way. Your picture shows heads and manifold removed. Please tell me I don't have to go that far! BTW, mine is an '01,
I took the battery to O'Reilly's and Auto Zone. Both verified battery was good. I had already checked/cleaned G-104/103 as they were relatively easy to access. G-106 is not easy, as you probably know. I can see 106 through/behind the exhaust manifold and it looks fine to me. If you insist I need to access 106 to be sure, what must I remove to get to it? There is so much in the way. Your picture shows heads and manifold removed. Please tell me I don't have to go that far! BTW, mine is an '01,
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 537
Likes: 2
From: Whitesboro Texas
I think the ignition switch is your issue. When mine went out, it had the same symptoms you are describing. I took mine out and cleaned the contacts, which worked for a while, but after doing that once a month, I went ahead and got a new switch.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks, Bill.
I took the battery to O'Reilly's and Auto Zone. Both verified battery was good. I had already checked/cleaned G-104/103 as they were relatively easy to access. G-106 is not easy, as you probably know. I can see 106 through/behind the exhaust manifold and it looks fine to me. If you insist I need to access 106 to be sure, what must I remove to get to it? There is so much in the way. Your picture shows heads and manifold removed. Please tell me I don't have to go that far! BTW, mine is an '01,
I took the battery to O'Reilly's and Auto Zone. Both verified battery was good. I had already checked/cleaned G-104/103 as they were relatively easy to access. G-106 is not easy, as you probably know. I can see 106 through/behind the exhaust manifold and it looks fine to me. If you insist I need to access 106 to be sure, what must I remove to get to it? There is so much in the way. Your picture shows heads and manifold removed. Please tell me I don't have to go that far! BTW, mine is an '01,
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,496
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From: Walhalla South Carolina
I see a lot of post on here about grounds being loose or corroded and for life of me I can't figure out how they get loose or corroded except battery of course. I have 3 other vehicles and have had several muscle cars over the yrs and never ever had loose grounds or corroded grounds except battery. Bill please educate me and I am not being fecious I really want to know and U R the man on these issues. They say if U want a cold drink of water go to the head of the stream. LOL Is this issue unique to corvetts? Thanks
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 369
Likes: 11
From: NV
I went through an almost identical episode near 2 years ago and I went through it all....even had Bill on the phone trouble shooting. Eventually came across the issue.....you guessed it....a bad ground. My advice? Listen to Bill. Take a good look at the starter area, those wires get brittle, lose insulation and start intermittently arcing. The LAST thing you should do is blame a module. TAC, BCM, EBCM, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH are expensive, hard to find and will prove to you....it wasn't the module.
Listen to Bill.
Listen to Bill.
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Instrument Panel Block: #21 reads 11.4 v, #22 has no fuse, #19 reads 8.9 volts. What do you think?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks, Bill. G106 checks out. I am still getting "Reduced Engine Power" and "Low Voltage". So, I have measured voltage of fuses of Under Hood Fuse Center: #19, #18, #17, #22 all read 11.7 volts; #13 reads 11.5 volts.
Instrument Panel Block: #21 reads 11.4 v, #22 has no fuse, #19 reads 8.9 volts. What do you think?
Instrument Panel Block: #21 reads 11.4 v, #22 has no fuse, #19 reads 8.9 volts. What do you think?
BC
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Intermediate
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 30
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I removed the switch and probed the contacts with an Ohm meter per the instructions from C5 Ignition Switch Repair thread. All contact combinations are between 0.1 and 0.4 ohms. So, good resistance. Given my previous symptoms, is it still possible the switch is bad? I haven't opened it yet.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,862
Likes: 594
From: Prescott, Arizona
Yes it is still likely the switch is the problem. My bet is that if you open it up you will find several burned contacts. These burned contacts may have relatively low resistance with no current flowing, like when you probe with a multimeter, but the instant current is applied, the resistance goes way up because the burned contacts are making metal to metal contact in very tiny areas which heat up and separate more with current flowing.
The switch is easy to take apart and put back together if you only unsnap the cover over the contacts.
Bill Curlee posted a good article on repairing the switch some time ago.
The switch is easy to take apart and put back together if you only unsnap the cover over the contacts.
Bill Curlee posted a good article on repairing the switch some time ago.