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Tranny brace and Pfadt diff mount clearancing

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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 02:48 PM
  #41  
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Bill Curlee
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The intake manifold does not need to come off IF you do not exceed the tilt angle of the drive train. I did because I had a FAST 90 and didn't want to take the chance of damaging it.

YES,, the trans jack or motorcycle jack will help get that beast (DIFF/TRANS) combo back in place!

If you have not planned it,, replace the differential output shaft seals. I did the C6 parts up grade during my install:



C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
-



-- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
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- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966



Bill
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 05:52 PM
  #42  
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Im planning on swapping in a built 3.90 rear with all C6 Z06 internals and output shafts at the same time.
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 05:59 PM
  #43  
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Also picked a low mile 12mm torque tube to swap in to upgrade my 10mm unit. Adding a remote bleeder, DTE brace and Pfadt mount too.
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 07:42 PM
  #44  
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Bill Curlee
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Carefully inspect your engine mounts. Seen a couple broke/seperated mounts lately.

Seperate your new TT and MAKE SURE that the couplers are in good shape. If they are,, your good to GO!

CHECK OUT THESE LINKS!


- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
-
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 09:55 PM
  #45  
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The torque tube looks great. Bearings are smooth and the couplers still look new. I was told it had 36K miles on it when it was pulled from an 04' Z06. Who knows if that's true but it certainly looks fresh. I may at least replace the couplers. Still in the air on that. I may say screw it and put it back together and run it.
I've read through most of those threads you posted. We have discussed the clutch install an another thread. I need to read through them again. You mentioned a certain measurement you have to do. Pressure plate to flywheel or something. Forget. Why I need to read it over again!!! haha
I will check the motor mounts for sure. I may even swap them out for the Hinson poly ones. With the Pfadt mount in the back, thinking it would be best to match in the front. Or I can wait till I do the heads and cam job. Exhaust will be out for the headers going in, heads will be off. Will be simple to inspect and replace then.

Last edited by IRON MAIDEN; Nov 27, 2014 at 02:08 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 12:21 PM
  #46  
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If that all the miles it has on it,, seal it back up and run it!!

Yea, that throw out bearing measurement for the correct shim thickness is critical for proper clutch operation. Sometimes, you dont need ANY shim, some times you do. You wont know unless you take the measurements.

Bill
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 02:09 PM
  #47  
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That's the one part of this job I'm not looking forward to!!! I'm sure you will be hearing from me when I have it torn down. lol
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 02:34 PM
  #48  
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LOL! I didnt look forward to it either. Once I understood what the shim does and why the measurement is important,, it was pretty simple. It really is SIMPLE.

You remove the SPRING from the slave cylinder, collaps it all the way till its fully seated in the slave cyl housing. Measure between the face of the throwout bearing to the mounting surface of the TT.

Then you measure the distance from the pressure plate spring fingures to the mounting surface on the bell housing ( in several locations).

Then you just do the MATH.

NOTE! I did the measurements several times. The old saying goes,, Measure twice, assemble ONCE
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