Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,064
Likes: 18
From: Arizona
Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks?
If the CCW drag package is $2k, why is everyone running CCW's? It seems like if you could get the backspacing correct, you could get Centerline or Weld to fit you with some rims for a lot less. The numbers dont add up...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 827
Likes: 78
From: Tennessee
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks? (ICULUKN-C5)
I don't think you are goign to find a weld or centerline with the correct spacing for the front. They would need huge offest to clear the calipers.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,786
Likes: 6
From: Lafayette Colorado
Re: Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks? (ICULUKN-C5)
I am running a Centerline 16x9.5 with a 7.0" backspacing on the rears. The Lower control arms needed to grinded a little, but the fit just find. Unfortunately, they do not make a skinny for the fronts :(
Keith
Keith
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,786
Likes: 6
From: Lafayette Colorado
Re: Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks? (ICULUKN-C5)
There are a couple others out there, but they still charge about $1700 to $2300 for the set. It is the whole lack of demand thing why the price is so high :(
Keith
Keith
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 0
From: Stamford CT.
Re: Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks? (kromberg)
I was under the impresion you still needed to do a little grinding with the CCW. I also understand you can use early 16" C4 9 1/2" rims or F-body 16" 9" if the grinding doesen't bother you. The CCW's are Very nice looking wheels if the price doesen't put you off. The grinding is what put's me off. If there were a 16" rim that would fit with no suspention changes, I would love the extra traction.Anyone know of one? Ric
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Daytona Beach Florida
Re: Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks? (Power Shifter)
the contour of the inner rim shell is what is special, and at this time only a 3-piece wheel is going to have the clearence (anything else will have to thick a cross section to give the needed inner diameter dimension). unfortunatley, modular wheels are fairly expensive to produce and the production cost of a 16x5.5 front isn't much different than that of an 18x11.5, admittedly the wheels are overkill for a drag race application, being built from road race components, but it's really to only way to make the fittment work.
as far as the grinding goes, on the 9.5" rear setup grinding is reduced to tapping down ( i've done it with a craftman 1/2" drive ratchet extention because i didn have a hammer available to me at the track) of the cap on top of the upper ball joint. the 10" rear setup does require more than that, but it's still not to bad to deal with and is nothing compared to what is neccesary to make others fit.
hope this clears some things up
as far as the grinding goes, on the 9.5" rear setup grinding is reduced to tapping down ( i've done it with a craftman 1/2" drive ratchet extention because i didn have a hammer available to me at the track) of the cap on top of the upper ball joint. the 10" rear setup does require more than that, but it's still not to bad to deal with and is nothing compared to what is neccesary to make others fit.
hope this clears some things up
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 26,794
Likes: 614
From: Elmhurst, IL (West Suburb of Chicago) & Home of MEGA Horsepower
St. Jude Donor '06
Re: Why do we need CCW wheels to get slicks? (racewheel)
the contour of the inner rim shell is what is special, and at this time only a 3-piece wheel is going to have the clearence (anything else will have to thick a cross section to give the needed inner diameter dimension). unfortunatley, modular wheels are fairly expensive to produce and the production cost of a 16x5.5 front isn't much different than that of an 18x11.5, admittedly the wheels are overkill for a drag race application, being built from road race components, but it's really to only way to make the fittment work.
as far as the grinding goes, on the 9.5" rear setup grinding is reduced to tapping down ( i've done it with a craftman 1/2" drive ratchet extention because i didn have a hammer available to me at the track) of the cap on top of the upper ball joint. the 10" rear setup does require more than that, but it's still not to bad to deal with and is nothing compared to what is neccesary to make others fit.
hope this clears some things up
as far as the grinding goes, on the 9.5" rear setup grinding is reduced to tapping down ( i've done it with a craftman 1/2" drive ratchet extention because i didn have a hammer available to me at the track) of the cap on top of the upper ball joint. the 10" rear setup does require more than that, but it's still not to bad to deal with and is nothing compared to what is neccesary to make others fit.
hope this clears some things up
John Da Man, no doubt! :smash: Nitrovette :cheers:
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