PCV Leak
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
PCV Leak
I have been trying to track down a PCM 440 & 442 Code which lead me to the PCV Valve area. I noticed that there was a build up of oil around that area like something was leaking, but could not see any hose breaks, etc.
I noticed that the build up was worse underneath the PCV Valve rubber boot itself, so I cleaned everything up and it felt like maybe the metal clip that secures the PCV Boot to the engine was torn maybe?
So I removed the metal cable connector that somehow secures the boot to the engine and when I pulled the off, I could see that where the metal boot retaining clip goes through the rubber boot is where all the oil was leaking from.
Here are some pics and I have a few questions:
In the first photo:
#1 refers to the PCV Boot that covers the PCV Valve when installed
#2 refers to the Metal Cable/Clip that somehow secures the boot to the engine (for some reason)?
#3 is the metal tube that attached to the PCV boot.
Questions:
(1) Can this rubber boot be purchased separately (Part Number)?
(2) Can it be purchased from a parts store lie O'Reillys or Dealership only?
(3) How is this "supposed" to work??? It looks to me like the metal retainer pierces through the rubber boot by design and then curls around the inside circumference in the boot??? Really? If so, how could that "not" leak?
(4) Does the boot (#1) just slip off the metal tube (#3) or is it part of that harness as a unit?
I noticed that the build up was worse underneath the PCV Valve rubber boot itself, so I cleaned everything up and it felt like maybe the metal clip that secures the PCV Boot to the engine was torn maybe?
So I removed the metal cable connector that somehow secures the boot to the engine and when I pulled the off, I could see that where the metal boot retaining clip goes through the rubber boot is where all the oil was leaking from.
Here are some pics and I have a few questions:
In the first photo:
#1 refers to the PCV Boot that covers the PCV Valve when installed
#2 refers to the Metal Cable/Clip that somehow secures the boot to the engine (for some reason)?
#3 is the metal tube that attached to the PCV boot.
Questions:
(1) Can this rubber boot be purchased separately (Part Number)?
(2) Can it be purchased from a parts store lie O'Reillys or Dealership only?
(3) How is this "supposed" to work??? It looks to me like the metal retainer pierces through the rubber boot by design and then curls around the inside circumference in the boot??? Really? If so, how could that "not" leak?
(4) Does the boot (#1) just slip off the metal tube (#3) or is it part of that harness as a unit?
Last edited by Choreo; 08-14-2019 at 04:33 AM.
#2
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: cinnaminson n.j.
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St. Jude Donor '14
I don't have answers for your specific questions above. I can tell you correcting the torn pcv boot will will not clear up your codes. The 440 is evap fault and the 442 is an evap small leak detected. Check the seal on your gas cap, if it's cracked or crushed, replace it. If you have already done that, a smoke test along with vent control and purge valve tests would be the next step.
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I don't have answers for your specific questions above. I can tell you correcting the torn pcv boot will will not clear up your codes. The 440 is evap fault and the 442 is an evap small leak detected. Check the seal on your gas cap, if it's cracked or crushed, replace it. If you have already done that, a smoke test along with vent control and purge valve tests would be the next step.
It appears that either I did not make sure that my new PCV valve was completely inserted a few months ago when I replaced it (most likely) or that the metal ring on the PCV Valve somehow popped out of the boot.
In any case, I would like to replace the RUBBER BOOT if possible since I did see some stress cracks in the rubber internally once I got everything apart. Does anyone sell just the boot?
Since I have replaced my Gas Cap twice, I guess the smoke test is in my future. How much does that cost? Where do they connect the smoke source?
#4
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: cinnaminson n.j.
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St. Jude Donor '14
Above the coil pack, drivers side about half way back. I would expect about 2 hours in labor ($200-250) for a smoke test, testing the valves and pressure sensor.
Sometimes spiders make webs in the vent hoses and they can cause the vent valve to stick and not seal properly. You can google it for a pic of the location
Sometimes spiders make webs in the vent hoses and they can cause the vent valve to stick and not seal properly. You can google it for a pic of the location
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Above the coil pack, drivers side about half way back. I would expect about 2 hours in labor ($200-250) for a smoke test, testing the valves and pressure sensor.
Sometimes spiders make webs in the vent hoses and they can cause the vent valve to stick and not seal properly. You can google it for a pic of the location
Sometimes spiders make webs in the vent hoses and they can cause the vent valve to stick and not seal properly. You can google it for a pic of the location
Now to find someone I could "trust" to actually do this test. Doubt I have many spiders since this has been my DD since Day 1 and I keep it garaged on in basically a showroom! Have just over 60k miles.
#6
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Does anyone have a schematic of all the components in this system that a smoke test would check?