When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Before posting here I did a search and came up with hundreds of 'possible' reasons why I'd have a no start situation.
Battery is only a week old; had a no start and dead/bad battery issue last week so I got it replaced and that did the trick for the meanwhile.
Today it wouldn't crank/start. Removed the battery connections and everything is clean/free of corrosion and tightened things back up. Before doing so I hooked up a multimeter to my battery (while being disconnected from the car) and it tested at 12.76v which I'm sure is OK.
Go back to start the vehicle and no crank. Fuel pump comes alive as it should and I've got fuel but it won't turn over/crank at all.
Anyone have pictures of any and all grounds so I can check to make sure I don't have a bad or loose ground?
I tried jumping it with a charged jumper I have here at home and it didn't do the trick (even though I ruled out a bad battery or bad connection at the battery).
Unfortunately I need to figure this out today as its my only day off!
Thanks guys! This forums been great to me with all the C4's I've owned in the past. This C5 is a whole different animal though.
Forgot to add that in the past I had a B2723 code (was showing as H but not current). I reset the code and it didn't reappear and I have no other codes.
Could be your ignition switch. The contacts burn and will cause it to not start. It is fairly easy to take out and check, if you don't mind taking apart the console. It looks intimidating, but don't let that get to you.
The good thing is that you can remove it, clean the contacts, and put it back in, to make sure that was the issue. If that is the problem, I would recommend replacing it rather than repairing it also. I had to repair mine about once a month, before going ahead and replacing it.
Does the theft light turn off when you try to start it?
Did you hear any clicking when you tried to start it?
If so, did you tap test the starter?
I would not replace the ignition switch yet.
Does the theft light turn off when you try to start it?
Did you hear any clicking when you tried to start it?
If so, did you tap test the starter?
I would not replace the ignition switch yet.
If you mean the 'security' light then yes it turns off along with the other lights after the key is in the ON position as well as when I turn the key.
I did hear the typical click that comes on when you hear the fuel pump come on, but no clicking while I tried to start it. Just a complete silence where nothing happens when I turn the key to crank it.
I didn't tap the starter though I've read somewhere about doing so to test the solenoid.
Edit: I forgot to mention in my initial post that trying to start the car with the second key made no difference.
Last edited by Kawizx9r; Dec 23, 2014 at 11:26 PM.
If you mean the 'security' light then yes it turns off along with the other lights after the key is in the ON position as well as when I turn the key.
I did hear the typical click that comes on when you hear the fuel pump come on, but no clicking while I tried to start it. Just a complete silence where nothing happens when I turn the key to crank it.
I didn't tap the starter though I've read somewhere about doing so to test the solenoid.
Edit: I forgot to mention in my initial post that trying to start the car with the second key made no difference.
Have someone turn the ignition key at the same time U tap the solenoid/starter housing with wood. If it starts a solenoid can be bought on the cheap from Houston Warehouse. Don't rely on it starting on it's own down the road. Shipping costs costs almost as much as the part. 9.95+11.75. Call Lou 1-800-392-3332. They also have complete starter/solenoids as does CarQuest and Advance. It all comes from China. Use caution if U replace the starter when installing the 2 large bolts. Do not cross strip the female end. U may be able to install solenoid w/o removing starter. I've not tried that. Had my issue at 8K something on 03. I guess the car sat idle as lot rot. Before U buy, make sure that's the issue, not something else.
I sent U the "Best ever thread...." which has links on your topic as well.
Last edited by cor28vettes; Dec 24, 2014 at 04:48 AM.
Have someone turn the ignition key at the same time U tap the solenoid/starter housing. If it starts you most likely need a solenoid which can be bought on the cheap from Houston Warehouse. Shipping cost more than the part.
if everything else lights up and you hear the fuel pump then it is most likely the starter/solenoid. Crack it one with a hammer (a light crack!) , use a bar to reach the starter if neccessary. I replaced both at 55,000 miles when I had the same symptoms, fwiw.
Last edited by Voodoo13; Dec 24, 2014 at 02:00 AM.
Reason: spelling!!
If you have a manual, it could be the clutch switch. With an Auto it could be the Park/Neutral switch. It could also be the Theft deterrent relay. They both have to close to energize to provide power to the solenoid on the starter. It would be nice to see if the starter was getting B+ on a Crank. I you want to jumper around all this I can provide that guidance. Here is the schematic.
So I think it's the solenoid I tapped (anyone have pictures as you look down to confirm?) and when I went to start it up it cranked and fired up.
Thanks guys for getting back to me so quickly and offering the quick how-to's.
I've got a set of Bilstein shocks that have been waiting to be installed for 2 months as well as sway bar end links. I'll also need new actuators since my dual-zone climate blows hot on the passenger side. Everytime I want to replace something another thing comes up lol
The car's an auto, and I did think to check out the TDR but I was unsure which one it is. There are two relays bunched up nice and tight immediately above the PCM in the passenger footwell area.
Yeah I read the schematic just fine; maybe I was vague in my post.
My physical ability leaves me unable to perform certain tasks with ease. Disabled vet here.
Btw, nice write-ups in your previous posts. I used some of them when I was fighting water leaks/etc. with this past week's heavy downpour.
Brother,, Thanks for serving and you have my attention.. I will send you a PM with contact data,, Please call me and I will assist you in solving your issue.
I went to start my car that night and it wouldn't start. I said screw it I'll try the next day.
Next day comes and the car fires up. I've driven it a few times as to not let it sit.
Today again the car will not start. Starter does not engage, there's clicking from the floorboard when I turn the key to crank/return the key. I read somewhere about checking the voltage on fuse 14 and/or the solenoid? Really tough getting to the solenoid but I did test fuse 14 (10 amp fuse) and it has constant power. Not sure if that's normal or if I read somewhere you're only supposed to have voltage during cranking.
Sounds like a funky connection either at the battery or most likely at the starter solenoid.
Ruled out the battery connection and battery last month when this issue started.
It could very well be the solenoid but I was wondering if there was another way of ruling it out by putting a multimeter to fuse #14 on the passenger side floorboard.
Whether I get it fired up or not I hope I get it turned on by Monday since I'll be getting my suspension replaced that day. I'd do the work myself but I'm getting work done on my arm again so I won't be able to for awhile.
C5 No start/diagnosis
if everything else lights up and you hear the fuel pump then it is most likely the starter/solenoid. Crack it one with a hammer (a light crack!) , use a bar to reach the starter if neccessary. I replaced both at 55,000 miles when I had the same symptoms, fwiw.
Brother,, Thanks for serving and you have my attention.. I will send you a PM with contact data,, Please call me and I will assist you in solving your issue.
