Hi Gents,

Have done a fair amount of reading/searching and I'm still confused...hoping some of you can help me formulate the right plan for updating/enhancing the cooling system on my C5Z.

Car is mostly street driven but I will be going to the track fairly soon.

I did some body mods lately - hood, front splitter (where I had to remove the side cooling damns underneath the front) - and have noticed higher temps lately. I've seen over 210 just cruising around and sitting at stop lights.

I'd like to get the temps down a bit for normal driving and I expect that I'll have a heat problem once on track.

I live in a moderate climate - California - so keep that in mind.

I've been looking at the RSD (Race Specialty Designs) radiator (recommended by Rich at Abel Chevrolet), a 170 degree thermostat from VHP (Vinci High Performance)...and am unsure if I'd need any fan controller/relay upgrade on top of it. I can't seem to figure out the right plan...

If you were in my shoes, what would you consider as a complete cooling system update?

Thoughts? Appreciate any help/input you can offer. Thank you fellas.

 

Most here seem to have their own setup based on their configuration needs and constraints. Here's what I'm doing on my new setup - DeWitts cut-down radiator (model 1139197E with built-in oil cooler) since I'm running a 4" intake, C6 oil line adapter block/lines with built-in high-pressure bypass feeding the DeWitts rad, 180 deg. t-stat, brushless Spal fan setup with dedicated temp sensor (built-in dedicated controller and 30% higher capacity than previous Spal dual fan setup). I'm also doing my best to provide the maximum air flow possible to my IC and rad by directing air as best I can and sealing the intake area of leaks. I also have an original MCM heat extractor hood that will be replacing my stocker.

Dewitts cut-down rad and Spal brushless setup. The fans are NOT wired to, or controlled by, the PCM but are wired directly to the battery. The temp sensor and dedicated controls keep the fans at the optimal speed. There is also the option to wire in an inline switch for continuous operation.


Mocked up without rad/IC cover in place. There appears sufficient space to move enough air in.






Needs TR paint


Fingers crossed that this setup performs as needed for the SoCal environment. Gets pretty hot here in Elsinore.

 

Wow, very nice Patches and I truly appreciate the helpful write up...gives me some more ideas. Thank you.

 

I run a full size dewitts and spal fans and they have worked perfect for me... I would go for the full size if it will work with your setup... I have a 180 stat and also have a pretty big intercooler in front of the ac condenser... after tuning I haven't seen over 210 degrees in the hot *** tx summer even after running it on the highway multiple times back to back... at lights with the ac on it gets to around 195 and cruising is 185-190 during the hot months

 

I have been tracking my car since early 2011 and as I have gotten faster, the temperatures on track have risen over the years. This has been compounded by the A4 auto trans which adds heat on track.

Never a temperature issue on the street with the stock radiator. I run the stock 190 coolant thermostat.

I am currently running a DeWitts radiator with trans and engine oil cooler, a B&M finned aluminum transmission pan with three extra quarts capacity an 18" x 7" x 2" auxiliary transmission cooler in front of the condenser and a transmission fluid thermostat. I also have a Sac City Cool It which I use to call up high right fan coming off track.

December 27 at Laguna Seca at the end of each of three 20 minute track sessions the coolant temperature stayed locked on 190, trans at 230, oil at 250.

Before the DeWitts, I would likely have to come off track early on the third session when trans temperature went through 260 and coolant above 230.

 

Ron Davis setup here, with built in oil cooler, dewitt dual spal fan package.

Dropped temps on the street from 210-215 to 185-195, at the track even more.

Had to cut and weld the lower radiator mounts, and drop the cradle to fit it all. Pretty labor intensive install, I was happy to be on a lift.

 

Thanks for the continued help/input fellas...appreciated.

 

I have enjoyed driving Laguna Seca, but every turn is still a work in progress for me.

You cannot see much track ahead as you turn through turn 1 accelerating past 100, then you begin to see turn 2 downhill ahead, but continuing the slight left of turn 1 as the car continues to accelerate and gets light and unsetteled. Keeping the right foot planted until the correct braking point for turn 2 is reached is still beyond me after five trips to this track.

For me, the end of the rumble strip at turn 7 is the clue to begin braking for the Corkscrew, ahead but still invisible. Here the car is light, cresting a rise and feels a little unsettled. Braking has to be careful with the car light or the antiskid will judder a wheel or two. The second turn of the Corkscrew is not visible until after turning in at turn 8, but becomes visible as the hood of the car drops out of your line of sight to the apex of turn 8A.

I am thinking that I will eventually get it right, but at age 70, not much time remains for that.

 

Thanks all for the help/input. I ended up with a full sized RSD radiator with separate oil cooler and 160 thermostat...will be going in shortly.

http://www.racespecialtydesigns.com/...&cat=53&page=1