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Installing a little more robust starter in my car, the knock sensor got wiped out. Not the sensor itself, the part that clips onto it got destroyed because of lack of clearance.
Question: Can I tune this out and go without the sensor? This would make my life so much easier.
Installing a little more robust starter in my car, the knock sensor got wiped out. Not the sensor itself, the part that clips onto it got destroyed because of lack of clearance.
Question: Can I tune this out and go without the sensor? This would make my life so much easier.
I think it is there to protect the engine from lean conditions which could damage the motor.
yes u can i have no knock sensors ..no more codes either once u shut them off using efi live or hp tuners
along with no maf or air pump
but if u run into bad gas u could be in trouble cause they bump timing back when detonation becomes present so i dont recomend getting rid of them
In my tune file my knock retard has been 0 for years. She runs rich if anything. I'm guessing based off of that... it's the same as not even using the sensor?
Yup, if you've set the knock retard tables to 0* then it's already the same as not having one so turn-off the codes and it's gone. I did the same on a LT1 because it showed knock all the time after some engine and valvetrain upgrades.
There are 2 and they are located under the intake manifold. They detect cylinder detonation or "ping" that maybe you have heard of before. In the old days if you ran fuel without adequate octane you would get pinging which is more of an explosion in the cylinder rather than a clean fuel burn flame front. It can break pistons and more. In the old days you just had to run better gas or retard the timing to prevent it. Newer cars like the C5 have sensors which can detect it and automatically retard the timing to prevent it. Hope that helps.
The starter is not under the manifold in my car. That is why I asked the question. I am sure he can explain what he meant. Not really a big deal to me, just felt like starting the new year with some fun.
The new starter is longer than the factory starter. When I torqued in the bolt on the starter, it cleaved the connection of the knock sensor. On my engine, the sensor is located adjacent to the starter on the passenger side.
We have two sensors, on each side of the engine. I will still have one good sensor but will be deleting the one that got destroyed. However, my new starter should fit beautifully now that I removed the sensor... now I'm hoping I can get the long tubes on over it then I'm gold!!
The new starter is longer than the factory starter. When I torqued in the bolt on the starter, it cleaved the connection of the knock sensor. On my engine, the sensor is located adjacent to the starter on the passenger side.
We have two sensors, on each side of the engine. I will still have one good sensor but will be deleting the one that got destroyed. However, my new starter should fit beautifully now that I removed the sensor... now I'm hoping I can get the long tubes on over it then I'm gold!!
Thanks for the explanation. What engine and year do you have?
LS1/6 motors are in the intake valley and the LS2/3/7 have them on the sides of the block. if you have your sensors basically turned off then they are just plugging holes at this point.
So your knock sensor is here. jsut to show everyone what the LS2 has
LS2/LS3
LS1 harness with LS3 motor
S
Last edited by RedZMonte; Jan 2, 2015 at 12:19 PM.
Hey Red, in hind sight I remembered that I pulled the plug out and installed everything back on the car. I don't actually recall the hole left by the knock sensor actually going through the block. Am I correct and is it ok to leave it like that?
Is the Knock Sensor Absolutely Required?
