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Clutch Education please

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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 03:42 PM
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Default Clutch Education please

Hi all,

I need schooled on clutches. I have a bone stock 02 C5Z with about 90k on it. as far as I know its never been changed. AS of right now its ok, I think it may need adjusted a little as it sometimes will not always go into reverse easily and going to 5 sometimes feels different (like a catch) than going into other gears. What is the average life span of these clutches, what should I replace it with and how much is this going to set me back? I plan on doing something a little sportier but stock would be just fine too. is there anything else that I might as well do while im changing the clutch...?
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeeOwe6
Hi all,

I need schooled on clutches. I have a bone stock 02 C5Z with about 90k on it. as far as I know its never been changed. AS of right now its ok, I think it may need adjusted a little as it sometimes will not always go into reverse easily and going to 5 sometimes feels different (like a catch) than going into other gears. What is the average life span of these clutches, what should I replace it with and how much is this going to set me back? I plan on doing something a little sportier but stock would be just fine too. is there anything else that I might as well do while im changing the clutch...?
Remote bleeder
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tgucc
Remote bleeder
can you explain please?
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 04:49 PM
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You don't replace a clutch until it need to be replaced.. ( slipping )
Your failure going into gear smoothly could be more than a few things.. either some one beat on the transmission before you, bad synchronizers in the transmission., A transmission fluid change... binding linkage. etc.

With no knowledge of a clutch and its actual mechanical functions as a unit and the other components involved.. master cylinder and slave cylinder...I don't expect you to consider doing this yourself..
Parts for a clutch install, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder are right around 800 dollars. labor is in the 800 to 1000 range.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
You don't replace a clutch until it need to be replaced.. ( slipping )
Your failure going into gear smoothly could be more than a few things.. either some one beat on the transmission before you, bad synchronizers in the transmission., A transmission fluid change... binding linkage. etc.

With no knowledge of a clutch and its actual mechanical functions as a unit and the other components involved.. master cylinder and slave cylinder...I don't expect you to consider doing this yourself..
Parts for a clutch install, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder are right around 800 dollars. labor is in the 800 to 1000 range.
yes, I understand how a clutch works. im relatively mechanically inclined to do the job if I decide to do it. I am new to this car so I just want to know what im dealing with weather im doing it or a mechanic. Definitely not like a semi or a tractor that's for sure. the transmission doesn't feel like its slipping as I can drop the clutch and things are normal. no burnt clutch smell etc. it feels mechanical like linkage and I can bet its due for a trans flush. I guess what I was also looking for was a brand to use if and when its time for a replacement. with the age and mileage of this car I want to have a budget set aside for when that day comes.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeeOwe6
yes, I understand how a clutch works. im relatively mechanically inclined to do the job if I decide to do it. I am new to this car so I just want to know what im dealing with weather im doing it or a mechanic. Definitely not like a semi or a tractor that's for sure. the transmission doesn't feel like its slipping as I can drop the clutch and things are normal. no burnt clutch smell etc. it feels mechanical like linkage and I can bet its due for a trans flush. I guess what I was also looking for was a brand to use if and when its time for a replacement. with the age and mileage of this car I want to have a budget set aside for when that day comes.
The transmission does not slip.. so saying the transmission isn't slipping ( its not an Automatic with internal clutches and bands ) as far as a clutch replacement and asking what a remote bleeder is , tells me you do not know enough about a complete rear cradle drop including torque, tube transmission differential, axles, and suspension components as a single unit. If you are asking about schooling on a clutch replacement, its more than you should attempt to handle. This is a big deal, and not for the faint of heart.. because you could change brakes and plugs and your own oil, it doesn't remotely qualify you to do this job. IM not being disrespectful, I just don't think you are qualified, only because of the questions your are asking. I would not want to se you get hurt, or wind up paying someone to fix the damage you could endure and then have to pay someone to do the job anyway.

All this has to come out






Last edited by Evil-Twin; Jan 7, 2015 at 05:29 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
The transmission does not slip.. so saying the transmission isn't slipping ( its not an Automatic with internal clutches and bands ) as far as a clutch replacement and asking what a remote bleeder is , tells me you do not know enough about a complete rear cradle drop including torque, tube transmission differential, axles, and suspension components as a single unit. If you are asking about schooling on a clutch replacement, its more than you should attempt to handle. This is a big deal, and not for the faint of heart.. because you could change brakes and plugs and your own oil, it doesn't remotely qualify you to do this job. IM not being disrespectful, I just don't think you are qualified, only because of the questions your are asking. I would not want to se you get hurt, or wind up paying someone to fix the damage you could endure and then have to pay someone to do the job anyway.
While that doesn't look like that bad of a job to drop the rear end I will most likely take it to a shop. SO, back to the original question...what is or would be recommended for a new clutch when its time to do it?
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 06:12 PM
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it really depends. what are you using the car for, any mods in the future? those are the questions you first have to answer before we can give you solid advice
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by magnetic2004
it really depends. what are you using the car for, any mods in the future? those are the questions you first have to answer before we can give you solid advice
guess I could have led with that...sorry. If this was like anything else in my garage I would say, yes, were pulling the motor and throwing several grand at it....BUT, not this time. just going to leave this stock with the exception of the B&B's that are on it till its time to pull the motor. I have too many other "bad habits" as my wife likes to say.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 07:02 PM
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so you arent going to modify it in the near furture becuase lets be honest, the engine can go hundreds of thousands of miles before it really needs a true teardown. if thats the case then my personal suggestion would be to stick with the factory clutch for one reason: longevity.

also, i dont remember if you stated it already or not, but do you feel the clutch slipping? if you are having problems getting into gear and thats the only problem you are having i would reccommend adjusting the shifter assy first before spending money on the clutch that may not be the issue. the factory hydraulics are "self adjusting" to a point. i adjusted the shifter in mine and had great success with the feel shifting from gear to gear

Last edited by magnetic2004; Jan 7, 2015 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by magnetic2004
so you arent going to modify it in the near furture becuase lets be honest, the engine can go hundreds of thousands of miles before it really needs a true teardown. if thats the case then my personal suggestion would be to stick with the factory clutch for one reason: longevity.

also, i dont remember if you stated it already or not, but do you feel the clutch slipping? if you are having problems getting into gear and thats the only problem you are having i would reccommend adjusting the shifter assy first before spending money on the clutch that may not be the issue. the factory hydraulics are "self adjusting" to a point. i adjusted the shifter in mine and had great success with the feel shifting from gear to gear
No, clutch is not slipping. Just every now and then it takes a little effort to get into reverse. I may just need t have the clutch adjusted. Honestly I don't plan on putting another 100k on this car before I trade up or rebuild it with what ever I can dream up.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeeOwe6
No, clutch is not slipping. Just every now and then it takes a little effort to get into reverse. I may just need t have the clutch adjusted. Honestly I don't plan on putting another 100k on this car before I trade up or rebuild it with what ever I can dream up.
there is no clutch adjustment on an MN6 C5.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
there is no clutch adjustment on an MN6 C5.
Well.... Guess I will start with the flush and linkage and see what I got.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 09:02 PM
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Ranger flush
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Shifter adjustment
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-issues.html
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