Oil pump and timing chain
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Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Santa Cruz CA
Oil pump and timing chain
Long story short, going to replace the harmonic balancer, water pump, belts, tensioners etc on my 02 Z06 w supercharger. Since I will end up so close to the timing chain and oil pump, is it worth while replacing the timing set, and oil pump? Car has 68k miles.
I've seen the SLP kits with timing set, double roller chain and oil pump combo, but also looked at just the LS2 timing chain.
Not sure what makes sense to do, or if I should even worry about it?
Any input would be great!
I've seen the SLP kits with timing set, double roller chain and oil pump combo, but also looked at just the LS2 timing chain.
Not sure what makes sense to do, or if I should even worry about it?
Any input would be great!
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, if you are that far in already all you have to do to install a cam is take off the valve covers, pop the rockers off, and the cam slides right out... you should also do the springs if you do a cam but that is an easy job, and I would recommend doing a rocker trunion kit as well... there is no need for a double roller chain, I have seen them cause more clearance problems with the front cover or balancer hub than they are even worth... a c5r chain will do just fine... my car had about 37k miles on it when I did the cam and I just reused the factory timing gears, c5r chain, and melling 10295 pump
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From: Santa Cruz CA
Thanks for the feedback.
I did Harland Sharp trunion upgrades, and updates to the blue GM valve springs, and new intake and exhaust seals about 800 miles ago.
So the Melling 295 is a good stock replacement for the LS6 pump? Basically a bolt on peice? No shimming etc?
On the timing gear, I suppose it would be hard to determine the wear without measuring the gears?
Not sure on cam, I really don't need one and I'm in CA, so smog is an issue.
I did Harland Sharp trunion upgrades, and updates to the blue GM valve springs, and new intake and exhaust seals about 800 miles ago.
So the Melling 295 is a good stock replacement for the LS6 pump? Basically a bolt on peice? No shimming etc?
On the timing gear, I suppose it would be hard to determine the wear without measuring the gears?
Not sure on cam, I really don't need one and I'm in CA, so smog is an issue.
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good thing you did the trunions already and if you don't switch cams then your springs should be ok, depending on your power level and how high you rev the car you might consider a slightly stiffer beehive spring since you are supercharged... I used a melling 10295 on my car, not sure if the 295 is the same pump... the 10295 is higher pressure stock volume, they do include a stock pressure spring if you want to use it... the 10296 is a higher volume pump and I have heard that they can suck the pan dry and starve the top end so that deterred me from buying that pump
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Thanks for the reply. Did you have to shim the oil pump during install?
I am not sure what the shimong entails or if it's even necessary. Sounds like the pump you are talking about is simply a bolt on and go part?
I am not sure what the shimong entails or if it's even necessary. Sounds like the pump you are talking about is simply a bolt on and go part?
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I just bolted mine on and haven't had any issues... shimming the pump refers to using feeler gauges between the pump gears to make sure they are evenly spaced when the pump is bolted down... since the bolts don't have shanks you can barely, and I mean barely, move the pump from side to side with the bolts loosely installed... I tried using feeler gauges until I realized that my pump couldn't be moved enough to make a significant difference so I didn't bother
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I just bolted mine on and haven't had any issues... shimming the pump refers to using feeler gauges between the pump gears to make sure they are evenly spaced when the pump is bolted down... since the bolts don't have shanks you can barely, and I mean barely, move the pump from side to side with the bolts loosely installed... I tried using feeler gauges until I realized that my pump couldn't be moved enough to make a significant difference so I didn't bother
Taking it apart realizing that the pump had been grinding away at the gears (needed shimming), putting debris into the engine and as a result no oil pressure, having to take apart the engine, new bearings etc.
I am not sure how common this is, or if there was other details contributing to this issue, however it does make me nervous enough messing with it...
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I have never heard of one failing that way and most people seem to just bolt them on and go... I would think that guy had some other issues going on... to do it with feeler gauges you install the pump as you normally would leaving the pump bolts slightly loose so that you can move the pump around and insert a couple of feeler gauges (I forgot the size) around the perimeter of the pump gears... then move the pump around until you get the gap between the gears the same on all sides and bolt the pump down... you can do a search to find the right size feeler gauge or maybe someone else knows off the top of their head and will chime in
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Thanks for the info, I just received the 10295 Melling pump, also went with the LS2 timing chain.
Now just finding time for the install and figure out the details on the pump shimming.
Now just finding time for the install and figure out the details on the pump shimming.
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I did the melling pump and LS2 chain. My block was also drilled for a chain dampener and I purchased and installed the dampener.
GM Stopped making them but the aftermarket now sells them. MAKE SURE that you get an LS6/LS1 dampener as the LS2 dampener will NOT fit.
When you install the oil pump pick up tube into the pump, make SURE that you do NOT pinch or damage the O ring.
Dampner Well worth the money!
Oil pump pick up cut away:
I also used an ARP Dampner bolt. Lot less messing around.
BC
GM Stopped making them but the aftermarket now sells them. MAKE SURE that you get an LS6/LS1 dampener as the LS2 dampener will NOT fit.
When you install the oil pump pick up tube into the pump, make SURE that you do NOT pinch or damage the O ring.
Dampner Well worth the money!
Oil pump pick up cut away:
I also used an ARP Dampner bolt. Lot less messing around.
BC
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 669
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From: Santa Cruz CA
Thanks for the info! I am not sure if my block is drilled or not, I suppose I will find out once torn down.
As for the oil pump install, any particular tips for shimming it/checking clearance?
Thanks!
As for the oil pump install, any particular tips for shimming it/checking clearance?
Thanks!
I did the melling pump and LS2 chain. My block was also drilled for a chain dampener and I purchased and installed the dampener.
GM Stopped making them but the aftermarket now sells them. MAKE SURE that you get an LS6/LS1 dampener as the LS2 dampener will NOT fit.
When you install the oil pump pick up tube into the pump, make SURE that you do NOT pinch or damage the O ring.
Dampner Well worth the money!
Oil pump pick up cut away:
I also used an ARP Dampner bolt. Lot less messing around.
BC
GM Stopped making them but the aftermarket now sells them. MAKE SURE that you get an LS6/LS1 dampener as the LS2 dampener will NOT fit.
When you install the oil pump pick up tube into the pump, make SURE that you do NOT pinch or damage the O ring.
Dampner Well worth the money!
Oil pump pick up cut away:
I also used an ARP Dampner bolt. Lot less messing around.
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
When I installed my Melling Pump, I used three feeler gages and inserted each feeler on top of one of the high points on the crank. Spaced them apart in a Y configuration.
If I remember correctly, I used around a 0.006" or so set of feelers. Just keep going up in size until they will not fit all the way around. If three .006" wont all fit, drop down to .005"
Your trying to get the oil pump case evenly spaced around the crank. Yes, there will be enough clearance around the oil pump mounting bolts to move it around some. Once you find three feelers that fit around the case, tighten the mounting bolts and remove the feelers. The pump is cenetred on the crank.
BC
If I remember correctly, I used around a 0.006" or so set of feelers. Just keep going up in size until they will not fit all the way around. If three .006" wont all fit, drop down to .005"
Your trying to get the oil pump case evenly spaced around the crank. Yes, there will be enough clearance around the oil pump mounting bolts to move it around some. Once you find three feelers that fit around the case, tighten the mounting bolts and remove the feelers. The pump is cenetred on the crank.
BC
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sac city corvette was also selling an oil pump centering tool at one point... last time I was on their site I bought a rear cover alignment tool and didn't see the one for the oil pump anymore... you might try pm'ing them to see if they still have it... seems like it would work a lot easier than messing with feeler gauges