So you don't think that corrosion on the inside of the slave means anything? I understand anything on the outside of the slave and even some corrosion on the threads that threads into the slave, but on the actual "needle" that seals the slave itself? The part with corrosion was the part of the bleeder that was actually INSIDE the slave. Taper! I couldn't think of the word lol the corrosion was ONLY on the tapered "V" that sealed the slave

 

probably sat apart for some time. it could cause a leak or something sure buy you said it wasnt leaking so that isnt likely the main issue. Sure the slave could have water in it and be bad, but it requires a teardown at that point so i would attack it last.

 

It will be hard to test the hydraulics on stands i think. That could go really wrong really fast. i would jsut put it on the ground. As long as the manifolds are on it would be ok to test i think jsut to see if it moves in gear with the clutch in while you rev it. Dont need a tunnel plate for that.

 

Ok so I went to do the shifter alignment and the locating pin that is supposed to be there is gone! the shifter also appears to be out of alignment somewhat. Can I just use an allen key instead?

 

Yep, anything to get it tightish. I can tell you my 03 still had the pin in it, so i have to imagine yours was lost in all the monkey business. The front to rear box adjustment is actually a bit harder to get right and takes a little trial and error.

 

Ok thanks I will try that and report back how it feels. I still have the soft clutch problem though. I went and bought a mityvac this morning and tried to bleed it again and it feels maybe 10% better but still nowhere near how it should be or how it was. When I push the pedal down, it feels soft for the first part of travel, then feels like it starts to firm up a little, and if you keep pushing it "goes through" that resistance and keeps going with the soft pedal.

 

Finished the shifter alignment and shifting through the gears with the car off, it feels a little smoother, and I can still just barely get it into fourth. Also the binding issue is still there as it will not go all the way over to the right. I also just remembered another detail. I remembered that it wouldn't go all the way over to the right with the car off, even at a stop. Running, and at a stop, i could move it all the way over. But as soon as i shut the car off at a stop i could no longer do that. I'm gonna post some pics of how far the shifter moves.

 

 

 

With the car off the reverse lockout doesn't work. I have no idea how it functions but i wonder if its possible that is what is binding the linkage left to right. As it will lock out till you hit 2 mph or less with the car on only. I just don't know enough about it to know if its even possible for it to block the 5/6 gate. It seems like it could be possible if there is an internal linkage issue. Have to hope for some transmission people to speak up i guess. Someone on these forums knows if that is something that is mechanically possible.

Does the car go into reverse ok? Like i said from the start, you can just muscle the lever to reverse with the car off, pushing the solenoid feels like pushing a 40 pound spring, maybe. Might be worth turning the car on first, without the motor running, Then pushing the shifter to the right to the 5/6 gate as if should let you in from what you have said. Then turning the ignition off while holding the shifter right. I would assume if the solenoid is released and that's what was blocking it, it would be evident as it pushed the shifter over.

None of this linkage stuff is going to fix a soft clutch pedal. That is going to require bleeding and a bunch of luck, or at this point most likely a tear down. Some people seem to have success, but mightyvacs suck in my experience. I cant get mine to get tight enough on a bleeder to not suck in air.

If the linkage to the shift box is adjusted it could adjust where the shifter center is and therefor if it moved farther left or right. So hard to say for sure what the deal is from the pics alone.

 

I just want to say thanks for all your help so far socko.
With the mitycac, you are supposed to put it in the hole in the master cylinder resivour from what I have seen. When I try to apply vacuum though, fluid does come up into the tube, but the gauge doesn't even read 1psi. If I can't build a vacuum then there must be an air leak somewhere right?

 

This video might help some people
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=b28CahjQd48

 

Just a couple of items:

Item #1 above gives a diagnosis of replacing "burnt, worn, damaged aftermarket clutch, master cylinder and clutch actuator", but doesn't say the work was actually done by the Chevy Dealer. That would have been at least a $3,000 estimate, so not sure if the owner at the time had it done?

If the Chevy Dealer did the repair, the updated slave cylinder they listed (89059282) comes pre-filled with fluid and bled, so no bleeding is required after installation. I think the same may hold true for the clutch master cylinder. This is possible because they incorporate Quick Disconnects at the ends of the lines, making installation much simpler.

If the owner had someone else do it other than the Chevy Dealer, they probably used an aftermarket slave cylinder, which are NOT pre-filled with fluid, requiring a full bleed of the clutch system after installation.


The parts installed with the torque tube may have been new driveshaft couplers and bearings.

Steve

 

For the soft clutch pedal: If I disconnect the quick connect and my pedal is rock solid, does that rule out the master as the problem so it must be the slave?

 

Yes, that would seem to indicate there is no air in the clutch master down to the qd, but there is either air in the slave side or else something is giving or bending somehow. I'm not personally familiar with how the slave is actually installed. I had my dealer install all of my parts.